1/2 ton Chevy 63" overloads in the front. Makes all the difference. @Zjohnsonua
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Currie and dynatrack use this method.More notes
1. Pro tip, the 80 series steering bolts are the same as 60 series other then the coating (dacrotized/geomet vs silver zinc/Cad), but 20% of the price ~$1 each vs ~$5 each. I can afford lunch now
2. Decided to try something a bit different with my steering links this time, instead of jam nuts I’m going to use OEM clamps, I noticed Delta VS does this on the links they make for 80 series and I’ve had issues with the jam nuts loosening up unless you tighten the hell out of them and that’s a pain.
I also really enjoy incorporating OEM style elements into my projects in the last few years
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Freak in the sheetsExtremely bad ass CSF 17x5x2” core bar and plate oil cooler came in the mail today. This will be for the Blackbox when it goes in. Got it 80% off from one of my suppliers because it got dropped on one of the fittings. Hope it doesn’t leak.
One of my engineers had the idea to mount it on Cruiser exhaust isolators which I liked.
Also, Turbowerx TWX-175-12v for the pump. Little dirty since it was installed in my LX450 but barely used.
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Hey Matt are you guys still using that ahp tig machine wondering how it's holding up. My nephew just got a prime weld tig machine he has only used it a few times on his race car he says he likes it better than his Eastwood machine also mentioned that he can get consumables from the welding supply house locally for the prime weld machine.
@tmxmotorsports I’ll second that AHP purchase, mine is probably 15 years old, replaced the pedal and torch and it’s done great for my shop (much lower workload than Matt’s).Single best ROI of any purchase (along with learning how to use it) I think I have ever made. Have had it for like almost 9 years now? Still gets used almost daily. Has made me like +$250k
I think they doI will say, throw the torch and pedal that come with it in the trash and buy a quality #9 water cooled torch, water cooler and a good pedal (unless they come with better pedals now
I don’t believe it!my lathe wasn’t big enough.
Matt,More small steps.. tie rod and drag link ends turned down to 29mm to accept 80 tie rod clamps. Had to have friend do this for me as my lathe wasn’t big enough.
Also started getting the pitman arm together have to have the lower plate re cut/bent with some small changes to be right.
Also finally got one of the Wilwood clutch master cylinder kits I make and sell installed! I went with a 13/16” bore.
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I hear you that it's not ideal, but did you see how I had it mounted before? I would say this is a huge improvement over what I had previouslyMatt,
I feel that spring top plate will move with that ram attached to it, maybe even break the sring pin/bolt over time. Can you mount it to the axle tube somewhere or on top of the diff?
I did not, I have seen them mounted to the diff cover on a Dana 60 and the cover moves and the bolts loosen up..FYII hear you that it's not ideal, but did you see how I had it mounted before? I would say this is a huge improvement over what I had previously
I don't have any other room anywhere else without the ram being directly in the path of rocks, or crashing into engine. It's already *extremely* tight as it is. I still need to put it on the ground and cylce it a finaly time before fully welding too