Builds Continued Adventures of Sweet Brown (8 Viewers)

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Man, this is becoming a habit that I need to break. Headding wheeling tomorrow up in the snow - Tonga Ridge, which is essentially Stevens Pass just outside Seattle is expecting as much as 30" of snow by the end of day on Saturday. That means a 5:30am start so I can drive up and make sure I get trailer parking. Of course, it also meant I needed to fix my CEL caused by a Knock Sensor #1 code and putting the truck in to limp mode, meaning it makes even less than it's usual 120HP. I figure NBD, it's probably just an exhaust leak on the new Y pipe and after watching the Huskies beat the Ducks in the PAC12 championship game I wandered out to the garage to (what I though was only) tighten a nut. Yeah ... No.

Of course as soon as I start tightening the nut the stud spins - stripped in the manifold. Also meant I couldn't get the sucker back out without my wife running an impact under the truck while I hit the top of the stud with a punch so it'd grab something and back out. A lot of swearing later It's out. I happened to have new manifold studs in my parts box, which are a little long but the same size and pitch. Ran a tap through the threads to clean the junk out, which worked but I don't imagine there's a lot left of the threads in the casting judging by how many chips came out. Stuffed a new manifold stud in with a spacer, cranked it down and took a test drive. No CEL, at least not for now.

Of course, this also means it's now after 11pm. Maybe I should start fixing my truck a couple of days before? šŸ¤”

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It's always the stupid little things that cause the most headaches.
 
Man, this is becoming a habit that I need to break. Headding wheeling tomorrow up in the snow - Tonga Ridge, which is essentially Stevens Pass just outside Seattle is expecting as much as 30" of snow by the end of day on Saturday. That means a 5:30am start so I can drive up and make sure I get trailer parking. Of course, it also meant I needed to fix my CEL caused by a Knock Sensor #1 code and putting the truck in to limp mode, meaning it makes even less than it's usual 120HP. I figure NBD, it's probably just an exhaust leak on the new Y pipe and after watching the Huskies beat the Ducks in the PAC12 championship game I wandered out to the garage to (what I though was only) tighten a nut. Yeah ... No.

Of course as soon as I start tightening the nut the stud spins - stripped in the manifold. Also meant I couldn't get the sucker back out without my wife running an impact under the truck while I hit the top of the stud with a punch so it'd grab something and back out. A lot of swearing later It's out. I happened to have new manifold studs in my parts box, which are a little long but the same size and pitch. Ran a tap through the threads to clean the junk out, which worked but I don't imagine there's a lot left of the threads in the casting judging by how many chips came out. Stuffed a new manifold stud in with a spacer, cranked it down and took a test drive. No CEL, at least not for now.

Of course, this also means it's now after 11pm. Maybe I should start fixing my truck a couple of days before? šŸ¤”

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It's always the stupid little things that cause the most headaches.
At least your getting out !! Have fun!!!
 
Found some snow. Rescued some Jeeps.

Treps don't do great in the snow, but they're not bad at 8psi. Will definitely try lower next time.

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Looks like fun, good call putting the doors on, I hope the heater is working šŸ˜‚
I have heard that sticky's don't do well in the snow.
 
Looks like fun, good call putting the doors on, I hope the heater is working šŸ˜‚
I have heard that sticky's don't do well in the snow.
I run DOTs, so not a problem, but your right - Sticky compound can't go below freezing or the tires crack and the lugs literally fall off.

I think the Treps are too square for snow wheeling. All they want to do is dig, which will just stop you in the Cascades where the snow is frequently wet and needs to be packed so you can ride on top. Iroks are considered the best snow tire by most folks up here and if you look at them side by side with the Treps they have a really rounded shoulder, which I'm guessing helps them ride on top of the snow.
 
Distributor swapped out and shiny new belts installed. Old unit was definitely leaking past the shaft seal.

Shiny and new.
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Leaky shaft seal.
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Belts _suck_ to install with an oversized alternator. Really can't slack the belts off.
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Also found a random coolant leak under the intake up by cylinder #4.
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Just the bolts? You’re tip in right now, you need to go all the way! Is this what I can expect from the pink panty crew?

Yeah, you’re just teasing right now…it’s ready!

You know you want too…

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My poor, poor diveline.

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Dents we're bad enough she's off to be retubed again. I'm starting to worry when the driveline shop greets my by name when i walk in.
 
Looks totally fine for a trailered rig
 
Looks totally fine for a trailered rig
Dents on both sides of the same part of the shaft and a pinch next to the weld. That gets retubed before it folds up.
 
what thickness? You shouldn’t be folding up .188ā€ or .25ā€ wall no matter how many dents are in it.
 

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