Build Clifford is home again- a 1965 FJ40 FST

[red66toy]

So after reading a few mud threads it seemed like unless you had some special little puller, cutting was the way here. Unfortunately I don’t have some micro cutting wheel. So I looked around at options. I found a couple little burr grinder ball fittings for my Dremel. Perfect since they are small and have good reach. Battle plans were laid.

I first took out the cage and bearings. Next I used the grinder to make two deep lines into the outer bearing race. The goal was to weaken the race so it would crack and fold on itself. Now that it was weakened, I used a little thin screwdriver and a little hammer to hit the race at a shallow angle. Enough to push the race in and not scrape the shaft. Worked fantastic! Got it out in no time.

Now it was time to build the output shaft…

 

[red66toy]

Ok, now that the output shaft was fully taken apart, it was time to rebuild.
First, I put the new needle bearing into the shaft. Rubber hammer did the job nicely.

Next was to install the smaller gear on the output shaft, then the washer, then the front bearing. I had the shaft on a wood block and drove the bearing home with the rubber hammer and a tube that was the same diameter as the inner bearing race. The gear must go in a specific orientation. New sleeve clutch was included in the rebuild kit (pictured).

Next order is to install the rear output shaft bearing into the case. Install it with the beveled face facing inward. Next, place the rear bearing into the race:

Next put in the large washer, and then the large high speed gear into the case on top of the washer and in the proper orientation (clutch sleeve splines inward).

 

[red66toy]

Ok, so now it was time to insert the output shaft into the gear and rear bearing. I placed the case over some wood blocks so I could drop the shaft in.

Here you can see the shaft partially inserted and how much distance there was to make up.

So according to the FSM, the procedure is to press the bearing in using an SST (shocking I know).

I ended up pulling the shaft into the case using this pulling tool (long threaded rod that threaded onto the end of the output shaft) and a aluminum tube. I'll give some more details on this tool later in case others want to try and replicate it.
I had to hold the tube with a rubber strap while I tightened the puller. It worked great though!

 

[Roastchestnuts]

So after reading a few mud threads it seemed like unless you had some special little puller, cutting was the way here. Unfortunately I don’t have some micro cutting wheel. So I looked around at options. I found a couple little burr grinder ball fittings for my Dremel. Perfect since they are small and have good reach. Battle plans were laid.
View attachment 3529497
I first took out the cage and bearings. Next I used the grinder to make two deep lines into the outer bearing race. The goal was to weaken the race so it would crack and fold on itself. Now that it was weakened, I used a little thin screwdriver and a little hammer to hit the race at a shallow angle. Enough to push the race in and not scrape the shaft. Worked fantastic! Got it out in no time.
View attachment 3529496
View attachment 3529495
Now it was time to build the output shaft…

Glad to see someone else resorting to cutting. Always makes me nervous but sometimes you dont have a choice.

 

[red66toy]

Glad to see someone else resorting to cutting. Always makes me nervous but sometimes you dont have a choice.

Yeah, I was hoping not to have to go that route for the same reason. But after reading that Mark and Georg have resorted to cutting at times, I figured that was the way to go. Little specialty pullers was not going to happen.

 

[red66toy]

Well after a bitter round of cold weather (which made garage work tricky) and a bout of seasonal illness, I am back at this project (and many others).
I have been bolting this T-case back together. After I got the output shaft on I bolted on the front output shaft cone housing. Super straight forward. And I bolted on the top cover.
The next part that has to go on is the vacuum actuator. I have been working on cleaning it up externally, and I have been hesitant to open up the diaphragm chamber. This actuator has two pushrod assemblies, a lower one and a top one. Well the T-case rebuild kit comes with the correct dust wiper and o-ring for the lower pushrod. I decided to go ahead and replace those since I had the parts and they are key in keeping the gear oil from leaking out.

To replace them, you undo the pivot pins, take off this tiny castle nut, push the rod out, take out the fork, and the rod should pop out easy. Once its out you will see the felt wiper and O-ring inside. I used a little dental pick to extract them.

Definitely dirty in there! So the plan right now is to replace these lower seals and not touch the upper seals since everything is holding a vacuum up there. Limiting rabbit holes is a good thing sometimes.
The rubber boots for the pushrods were degraded or absent. The rubber boot for the lower pushrod comes with the kit, the upper not so much. I think I found the correct boot for it, its on its way from Japan and I'll report back if it fits ok.
Time to get back to cleaning!

 

[red66toy]

Ok, I took a break from the actuator to install the transfer case onto the transmission! It is very straight forward (@Coolerman has good photos here as well: 4 Speed Tranny Install - http://www.globalsoftware-inc.com/coolerman/fj40/35.htm ). But I will cover some details that were not that easy to find:
First install the input seal on the transfer case. Install with the spring facing the transmission:

Next, make sure you have the spacer on the back of the H42:

Install the rear gasket on the transmission, I used some FIPG to help stick it on and seal it. Next step is to insert the new input gear into the transfer case. But first install the gear onto the output shaft of the transmission, it will clear off the cosmoline off the teeth and make install easier. Now take it back off. Insert the gear into the case with the "longer shoulder" facing the transmission. I pushed the shoulder through the seal so it would be held in place. I picked up the transfer case, and with one hand inside the transfer case putting pressure on the gear, I pushing the case onto the output shaft. Its a goofy operation, and two people would be awesome, but I made due. Once the gear is on the shaft slide the case up to the transmission and put in a couple of the long bolts quickly... phew!
Next was to install the spacer. The 4to3 rebuild kit from Valley Hybrids comes with two spacers. The longer one goes on the output shaft and replaces the old PTO gear:

Next install your last bearing in the kit! The rear output shaft bearing and then slide on that last (shorter) spacer. This bearing was super easy to install, not much force was needed compared to the others in the case:

It's on! I torqued the mounting bolts to 40ftlbs (fsm says 36-58ftlbs
I realized I didn't have a final washer before the stake nut so I am waiting on that from Toyota. But once I get that I will install the stake nut and torque to a final value of 80-101ftlbs.

Super happy to be at this point. I am going to wait to install the rear brake housing until after installation to give myseft some extra wiggle room. The plan is to tilt the engine down in the rear to give clearance. I am also going to install a couple fender wasters under the front engine mounts to give the transfer case enough clearance under the tub. Not much is needed, but it helps a lot.
But first, I need to swap bellhousings. That will mean I am going to replace the rear main seal (while I have it accessible), put on a 4speed flywheel, bell housing and new motor mounts, 4speed clutch parts, and then the transmission can come home.

 

[Wildcat Walker]

I would HIGHLY recommend torquing the transmission output shaft nut to 150 ftlbs minimum. If you do not, there is a potential for the stack of gears to lose the preload applied by the nut, allowing the spacer between the transmission and transfer case input gear to slip, this will wear down the spacer and cause the transfer case gears to become misaligned. Note that the part number for the nut is the same as those used on the front and rear differential pinions, and the torque spec for those is much higher. I notice in your image of the spacer that you may have had some slippage occurring in the past. See the attached images showing damage from a loosened nut. Any wear that occurs on these components puts metal particulate directly into the transmission and or transfer case. And the misalignment of the transfer case input gear puts high stress on the gear mesh due to the reduction in contact area.

 

[red66toy]

I would HIGHLY recommend torquing the transmission output shaft nut to 150 ftlbs minimum. If you do not, there is a potential for the stack of gears to lose the preload applied by the nut, allowing the spacer between the transmission and transfer case input gear to slip, this will wear down the spacer and cause the transfer case gears to become misaligned. Note that the part number for the nut is the same as those used on the front and rear differential pinions, and the torque spec for those is much higher. I notice in your image of the spacer that you may have had some slippage occurring in the past. See the attached images showing damage from a loosened nut. Any wear that occurs on these components puts metal particulate directly into the transmission and or transfer case. And the misalignment of the transfer case input gear puts high stress on the gear mesh due to the reduction in contact area.

View attachment 3537437

View attachment 3537438

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View attachment 3537451

Thank you for the tip! That would be a huge bummer if that happened. The 3speed I unbolted definitely had a few issues, so I’m not sure if this already happened on it, but I’ll go look for signs of it.

 

[red66toy]

Ok, so I am looking at ordering a clutch kit.
To run the 4speed clutch, I know I need the whole ecosystem for it (clutch kit, flywheel, fork, throwout bearing hub, and slave cylinder). But I want to keep my OG 65 clutch master cylinder. According to the @cruiseroutfit website, the early slave cylinders have a 3/4" bore and the 74+ slave cylinders have a 13/16" bore. Will this be an issue running my original master with the newer slave cylinder?

 

[Wildcat Walker]

Ok, so I am looking at ordering a clutch kit.
To run the 4speed clutch, I know I need the whole ecosystem for it (clutch kit, flywheel, fork, throwout bearing hub, and slave cylinder). But I want to keep my OG 65 clutch master cylinder. According to the @cruiseroutfit website, the early slave cylinders have a 3/4" bore and the 74+ slave cylinders have a 13/16" bore. Will this be an issue running my original master with the newer slave cylinder?

It shouldn't affect the mechanical function of the clutch. Since line pressure remains unchanged you're spreading the pressure over a slightly larger slave cylinder bore diameter which will increase the force by about 15%. What is the bore diameter of the 74'+ Master?

 

[red66toy]

It shouldn't affect the mechanical function of the clutch. Since line pressure remains unchanged you're spreading the pressure over a slightly larger slave cylinder bore diameter which will increase the force by about 15%. What is the bore diameter of the 74'+ Master?

Thanks. Yeah, not sure on bore size. Well I'll give it a go. I just ordered a clutch kit and slave from Cruiser Outfitters. Need to source a flywheel now

 

[locklaw]

Ok, so I am looking at ordering a clutch kit.
To run the 4speed clutch, I know I need the whole ecosystem for it (clutch kit, flywheel, fork, throwout bearing hub, and slave cylinder). But I want to keep my OG 65 clutch master cylinder. According to the @cruiseroutfit website, the early slave cylinders have a 3/4" bore and the 74+ slave cylinders have a 13/16" bore. Will this be an issue running my original master with the newer slave cylinder?

It works fine, your pedal effort to step in the clutch is only marginally higher (product of the numerator of the larger later bore with the denominator being the smaller bore).

 

[red66toy]

It works fine, your pedal effort to step in the clutch is only marginally higher (product of the numerator of the larger later bore with the denominator being the smaller bore).

Cool, glad to hear this!

 

[red66toy]

Turned my attention to the bellhousing. Old clutch had to come out first. Unbolting the clutch pressure plate was easy. But the flywheel put up a fight of course. The bar I made to unbolt the pinion flanges from the T-case worked perfect to brace the flywheel. I used the 8mm bolts from the clutch pressure plate to hold it on. I love when that works out.

Success.

Now I need to swap bellhousings and do the rear main seal.

 

[firemanj92]

Also paint the TDC line and BB while it's out too.

 

[Green Bean]

I'll go ahead and confess mt ignorance so that I can be educated by the pros: Why remove the clutch and flywheel before removing the bellhousing?

 

[firemanj92]

I'll go ahead and confess mt ignorance so that I can be educated by the pros: Why remove the clutch and flywheel before removing the bellhousing

For the hidden bolts behind the bellhousing that secure it to the motor; the bellhousing opening is smaller than the flywheel/Pressure plate/clutch.

 

[red66toy]

Bellhousing removed! I supported the engine well. Next I removed the 6 main bellhousing mounting bolts, then the two little 10mm bolts holding on the slash sheild. Then I unbolted it from the motor mounts. I’m hoping to leave those in and slide the 4speed bellhousing on. A few of the motor mounting bolts were loose and one was missing, so glad I caught these.
Next is put in the 4 speed bellhousing and get that rear main seal done. The rear block plugs look tight, I don’t see any leaking. So I’ll just do that rear seal.

 

[locklaw]

Bellhousing removed! I supported the engine well. Next I removed the 6 main bellhousing mounting bolts, then the two little 10mm bolts holding on the slash sheild. Then I unbolted it from the motor mounts. I’m hoping to leave those in and slide the 4speed bellhousing on. A few of the motor mounting bolts were loose and one was missing, so glad I caught these.
Next is put in the 4 speed bellhousing and get that rear main seal done. The rear block plugs look tight, I don’t see any leaking. So I’ll just do that rear seal.
View attachment 3539061

Don't forget the pilot bearing in case you forgot about it. Just had one seize up from standing only 9 months. Made no noise before it was driven to its parking spot for the refresh