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- Jul 22, 2012
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- Winter Park, Florida
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- www.cruisermatts.com
is the column shift kit getting installed as well?
Build Clifford is home again- a 1965 FJ40 FST
- Thread starter red66toy
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #382
For sure! Excited about that part.
- Thread starter
- #383
I’ll go into more detail on the rest of the operation. Didn’t want to reinvent the wheel since the FSM and that referenced thread was so good.Great job. Thank you for documenting this. Looks like you used the correct recommended SST: OEM RY wire.
The wire was a bit off script. 
- Thread starter
- #384
So the next part of the equation is going to be extracting the current drivetrain. I need to empty and remove the fuel tank so I can remove the hump. Have people had issues with removing the fuel tank drain plug? Or should I try and avoid that and make a transfer pump?
- Thread starter
- #386
Siphon is on the way!
The drain bolt looked like an easy solution… but turning seldom touched bolts on these old trucks always makes me pause. 
- Thread starter
- #387
Drained the tank. Inside actually looks decent!
I started to take out the hump bolts that were accessible while the tank is still in. These have been soaking in PB Blaster for several days. I had to Channel lock several of the captive nuts to keep them from turning in their keepers. Shockingly, only one bolt broken so far!
Finishing painting of the h42 parts.
I started to take out the hump bolts that were accessible while the tank is still in. These have been soaking in PB Blaster for several days. I had to Channel lock several of the captive nuts to keep them from turning in their keepers. Shockingly, only one bolt broken so far!
Finishing painting of the h42 parts.
- Thread starter
- #388
Always a moment of truth in a 40… what’s under the tank?!!!
Lots of dirt and rust flakes. Not the best one would hope for, but far from the worst.
One corner had thin enough metal there was a hole.
I’ll need to decide what the best plan of action is. I don’t want this to devolve into a lot of body work. This is not a resto but more a “enjoy the hell out of it” project cruiser.
While the tank is out I’ll have it tested for leaks. Bottom didnt look bad at all.
Lots of dirt and rust flakes. Not the best one would hope for, but far from the worst.
One corner had thin enough metal there was a hole.
I’ll need to decide what the best plan of action is. I don’t want this to devolve into a lot of body work. This is not a resto but more a “enjoy the hell out of it” project cruiser.
While the tank is out I’ll have it tested for leaks. Bottom didnt look bad at all.
- Thread starter
- #390
Since the transfer case is on the mind, do people generally replace the rubber actuating diaphragm while they rebuild their transfer case? Mine works, but it's still super super old at this point. It looks to be NLA, 36421-60010
SSi
Once the penetrol has soaked in I give it a few coats of primer an similarly colored rattle can paint (Rustoleum has worked for me) and then finally, liberally coat the whole shebang with a ton of Fluid Film before putting the tank back in.
I leave the now round hole open as a drain (logic tells me it's the lowest point where moisture gathers and sits) but nothing stops you from putting a grommet in the hole.
Good job! Since it's not a resto but rather a driven Cruiser, I drill out the rust hole to get rid of the worst rot, clean the metal as far as possible and liberally coat it with Penetrol.Always a moment of truth in a 40… what’s under the tank?!!!
View attachment 3503835
Lots of dirt and rust flakes. Not the best one would hope for, but far from the worst.
One corner had thin enough metal there was a hole.
View attachment 3503836
I’ll need to decide what the best plan of action is. I don’t want this to devolve into a lot of body work. This is not a resto but more a “enjoy the hell out of it” project cruiser.
While the tank is out I’ll have it tested for leaks. Bottom didnt look bad at all.
Once the penetrol has soaked in I give it a few coats of primer an similarly colored rattle can paint (Rustoleum has worked for me) and then finally, liberally coat the whole shebang with a ton of Fluid Film before putting the tank back in.
I leave the now round hole open as a drain (logic tells me it's the lowest point where moisture gathers and sits) but nothing stops you from putting a grommet in the hole.
- Thread starter
- #392
Love this idea
Green Bean
SILVER Star
Chase:
If there is good solid steel surrounding that small hole, you could easily fill it with a mig and grind it smooth. prime and paint. A magnetic copper backer makes for quick work.
Amazon product ASIN B000VHZHBO
If there is good solid steel surrounding that small hole, you could easily fill it with a mig and grind it smooth. prime and paint. A magnetic copper backer makes for quick work.
Amazon product ASIN B000VHZHBO
- Thread starter
- #394
I did initially start to think about patching it, the metal around the bigger hole is not great as well. I am sure I could bust out more metal maybe if I put effort into it. So I think for now to avoid another rabbit hole, I am going to treat and stabilize and leave the hole. A vast majority of the metal under the tank is solid, so no structural worries.
- Thread starter
- #395
Alright! So I have been making steady progress and wanted to update so I don't forget later. I was able to borrow a transmission jack from a local cruiserhead (love this community!). I got to work on disconnecting all parts to extract the transmission and transfercase
On the interior I took out the hump. I broke a couple bolts and had to brace the captive nuts as best as I could. Mostly went ok.
After I got the hump off I disconnected the linkages at the top of the transmission and parking brake cable under the dash (that was an easier route vs disconnecting it at the parking brake drum).
Underneath I disconnected the drivelines, vacuum lines, the transfercase shifter linkage, at the 4wd switch wires. Then I drained all the fluids. The fluid in the transfercase was nice and clean.... the j30 looked like the night sky. Lots of metal flakes which tells me I was right in thinking it was giving up the ghost and was due for a swap. You can see the silver at the rim of the pouring gear oil... and this was refeshed not that long ago!
I replaced the plugs and got the jack.
On the interior I took out the hump. I broke a couple bolts and had to brace the captive nuts as best as I could. Mostly went ok.
After I got the hump off I disconnected the linkages at the top of the transmission and parking brake cable under the dash (that was an easier route vs disconnecting it at the parking brake drum).
Underneath I disconnected the drivelines, vacuum lines, the transfercase shifter linkage, at the 4wd switch wires. Then I drained all the fluids. The fluid in the transfercase was nice and clean.... the j30 looked like the night sky. Lots of metal flakes which tells me I was right in thinking it was giving up the ghost and was due for a swap. You can see the silver at the rim of the pouring gear oil... and this was refeshed not that long ago!
I replaced the plugs and got the jack.
- Thread starter
- #396
Here is the jack, a beefy low riding design.
I tried to guess what the center of gravity would be on the system. I mostly got it right. I was definitely a bit nervous doing it, and careful not to hit the transfercase vacuum tubes when lowering it. First I strapped it on with a ratchet strap, then undid the lower bell housing bolts with a 19mm wrench. Once those were out I moved and did the top bolts from inside the truck.
It was touch and go but I got it out without doing any damage! Phew.
The whole assembly is too tall to slide out the side of the truck, so I am going to have to jack up the front of the truck to get enough height.
I turned my attention to finishing up the h42, I needed to install the little input shaft seal. I didn't really have a great tool for it, then figured out the old inner bearing race for the rear lower countershaft is a perfect size. Time to use FIPG and seal up the rest of the parts.
I tried to guess what the center of gravity would be on the system. I mostly got it right. I was definitely a bit nervous doing it, and careful not to hit the transfercase vacuum tubes when lowering it. First I strapped it on with a ratchet strap, then undid the lower bell housing bolts with a 19mm wrench. Once those were out I moved and did the top bolts from inside the truck.
It was touch and go but I got it out without doing any damage! Phew.
The whole assembly is too tall to slide out the side of the truck, so I am going to have to jack up the front of the truck to get enough height.
I turned my attention to finishing up the h42, I needed to install the little input shaft seal. I didn't really have a great tool for it, then figured out the old inner bearing race for the rear lower countershaft is a perfect size.
Time to use FIPG and seal up the rest of the parts.
Green Bean
SILVER Star
You make it look awfully easy.Here is the jack, a beefy low riding design.
View attachment 3506111
I tried to guess what the center of gravity would be on the system. I mostly got it right. I was definitely a bit nervous doing it, and careful not to hit the transfercase vacuum tubes when lowering it. First I strapped it on with a ratchet strap, then undid the lower bell housing bolts with a 19mm wrench. Once those were out I moved and did the top bolts from inside the truck.
It was touch and go but I got it out without doing any damage! Phew.
View attachment 3506113
The whole assembly is too tall to slide out the side of the truck, so I am going to have to jack up the front of the truck to get enough height.
I turned my attention to finishing up the h42, I needed to install the little input shaft seal. I didn't really have a great tool for it, then figured out the old inner bearing race for the rear lower countershaft is a perfect size.
View attachment 3506118
View attachment 3506119
For the step to fender issue, I would suggest a 3d printed part. Cheap, paintable if you wish, You will need a wedge washer like the PTO winch uses on the inside of the front fender, can 3d print that too.
- Thread starter
- #399
At the moment it seemed dicey but it was just nerves. It actually slid back and down with not much issue. Taking stuff apart is always the easy part.... getting it back together correctly is the tricky endeavor.
I have been putting parts in baggies with labels so I know how where they belong when the time comes.
Green Bean
SILVER Star
Will you be dropping the oil pan and replacing the rear main seal?