Cleaned window switch (question within)

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98 SNAKE EATER

98 SNAKE EATER

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Aug 10, 2004
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Orlando, FL & Southampton, NY
OK, for the past few weeks, I've noticed that after I send the driver's window all the way down, the usual "click" sound when the switch panel makes hits the bottom was delayed about a second or two :hhmm:

If I try to roll it up instantly, the window will stop half way :confused:

And if I wait about 10 seconds, it will go all the way up without issue :clap:

I'm guessing the circuit has a breaker that needs to cool after rolling down automagically :meh:

Anyways, I decided to pull the switch apart for a good cleaning since that what most of you guys suggest :banana:

The contacts were definitely dirty :o

windowsswitchcleaning1.jpg



Cleaned it up with some electrical contact spray and a cotton swab, gently scraped the contacts with a razor and flipped the contact levers before re-installing...


windowsswitchcleaning2.jpg

windowsswitchcleaning3.jpg



The end result is that the window can be sent down automagically about 5 times back to back before the circuit required cool down period, so it's definitely much better :)


Couple of questions:


1) Is the overload feature built into the switch itself or is there an external breaker style fuse like what GM cars use?

2) Does the OEM switch have a manual down, or is it just auto?

Mine has always been auto down or nuthin, so if I wanted to put the window say 1/2 way down, I had to hit the auto down button, wait for it to get half way and quickly blip the switch up in order to stop :meh:

On my wife's Camry and Sienna, I can push the auto button half way down and it will work manually, stopping as soon as I let go :hhmm:
 
OEM switch has manual and auto down for the driver's window. Don't recall where that shut-off is located. FWIW my truck also had problems with my master switch, cleaned it up as above, swapped the contacts around, but then slowly developed problems with another window, then another, then all of them after two years. IME the rocker contacts appear to be silver plated and the copper contacts also look to be plated; my guess is that the plating may wear off with use so cleaning may only be a short term fix. I recently installed a new cheapo switch from switch-doccter ($45) which has manual and auto-up and auto-down for the driver's window, all the windows now move faster with the new master switch.
 
Kernal said:
I recently installed a new cheapo switch from switch-doccter ($45) which has manual and auto-up and auto-down for the driver's window, all the windows now move faster with the new master switch.
Click to expand...

I've seen some el cheapo switches on FleaBay and this one looks just like the one listed on the Switch-Doctor website :hhmm:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/171022458695?ssPageName=STRK:MEBOFFX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1427.l2649


So you're saying is has auto-up built into the switch?

I might have to pick one up for that alone :)
 
Heh, I spent some time cleaning my original driver's side window switch. It would work ok for a little bit and go back to broke, then I'd have to clean & so on.

Eventually I just gave up and bought one of the switch doctor switches.

The switch doctor switch works fine. There's no auto up on my replacement driver's window switch ('96), just auto down.

The switches aren't the best quality, the window lock button pops off mine occasionally. Bang for buck though, they're great.
 
I have a 96 FZJ-80. Yes, auto up also. With shipping something like $52, lifetime warranty. I just put it in and haven't finished the install, need to add the plastic panel that fits over the switch tomorrow. Seems like someone mentioned it sat a tiny bit lower inside the door than the original, I'll know soon. Also the AUTO button remains lit even with the lights off (it does go off when the key is removed however), don't recall if the original did that. The construction of this Chin-ese made master switch does have a somewhat cheaper feel/look to it, for the buttons they use a plastic "axle" shaft, the Toyota part is a thin steel rod. FWIW.
 
Kernal said:
I have a 96 FZJ-80. Yes, auto up also. With shipping something like $52, lifetime warranty. I just put it in and haven't finished the install, need to add the plastic panel that fits over the switch tomorrow. Seems like someone mentioned it sat a tiny bit lower inside the door than the original, I'll know soon. Also the AUTO button remains lit even with the lights off (it does go off when the key is removed however), don't recall if the original did that. The construction of this Chin-ese made master switch does have a somewhat cheaper feel/look to it, for the buttons they use a plastic "axle" shaft, the Toyota part is a thin steel rod. FWIW.
Click to expand...

Kernal, your switch does auto up? The one I have doesn't do auto up, which would be a nice convenience (perhaps not another $50 convenience though). Our LX does have auto up, funny how I miss it in the LC.
 
I sprayed cleaner. Cleaned the contacts. And it still would crap out when it was 30 and raining and I just got my bag of McDonalds. Nothing better than rolling home like that but when the wife borrowed the car to go to work and had to drive 45 min on the highway in the rain with the drivers window down. Well it doesn't matter what that switch costs. As long as it gets fixed asap. Rear window switches were going out as well. So after finding this post I just bought every switch from the switch doctor. Got them 2 days later. Install took 5 min. Did it at 2am in the morning in my underwear with nothing but a pair of scissors as a tool.

Paid a total of $90 with shipping. Having all the windows roll down now is priceless.
 
Trollhole said:
Rear window switches were going out as well. So after finding this post I just bought every switch from the switch doctor. Got them 2 days later.
Click to expand...

Mine still works fine, but I guess I'll be going with an SD switch whenever the time comes :cool:

No need for the other switches since I bypassed them a long time ago ;)
 
My original master switch looked worse than that. I tried to restore and clean it but it was easier just to replace. I purchased a SD switch back when they were on sale for like $30. Seems to work fine so far but doesn't feel as solid as the original. No complaints though.
 
sdnative said:
My original master switch looked worse than that. I tried to restore and clean it but it was easier just to replace. I purchased a SD switch back when they were on sale for like $30. Seems to work fine so far but doesn't feel as solid as the original. No complaints though.
Click to expand...


Does yours also have Auto-Up?

Trying to figure out if it was a yearly thing :confused:
 
tirewater said:
Kernal, your switch does auto up? The one I have doesn't do auto up, which would be a nice convenience (perhaps not another $50 convenience though). Our LX does have auto up, funny how I miss it in the LC.
Click to expand...

Do you have an LX450 or LX470? My LX450 does not do auto up, only auto down.
 
So I sprung for a new switch from SD even though my stocker seems to be working fine after the cleaning :cool:

switchdocwindowswitch1.jpg

switchdocwindowswitch2.jpg

switchdocwindowswitch3.jpg

switchdocwindowswitch4.jpg

switchdocwindowswitch5.jpg


Auto button works as it should, but with down only :meh:

Buttons all feel solid and the door lock switch is especially stiff :hhmm:

From what I can see, this knock-off actually looks to be better made than the original piece :confused:

Only time will tell, but I'm keeping the original as a spare just in case :popcorn:
 
Does this switch fit a 93? on Ebay it says 96-97 or some such. My JHD 80 looks the same.
 
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