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MIGHT be able to swap that 45* tube for a 90* and turn it out toward the tub, cut OUT the stock filler door and re graft it in to the body and THEN...re make the head of the filler so it all ties together.

YOU F*CKERS are KILLING ME!!!!!!
You see what youre making me do...MORE F*CKING BODY WORK!
I HATE SHEET METAL WORK!:crybaby::bang:

:lol:
 
HMMMMM...I see your point. :hhmm:
Just to be clear...I really did not consider THIS to be cutting a corner, per se, to make it easier. There is just really NO feasible way to run that filler ANYWHERE ELSE than where it is. ANYWHERE else around the the tank would either interfere with the rear tire, the exhaust or run up into the cargo area.
One thing I COULD do is completely cut out that down slope of the fenderwell, run the tubing, the re make the skin AROUND that fill tube.
To be totally honest, I dont see the way I did it pictured above to THAT BAD. Its not ideal by any means, nor did I think it was, but more of an OKAY compromise. The one point you DID bring up was re. the "DOT" approval. NOTHING about this tank is DOT rated. With that being the case when it comes time for me to register this mofo, I DO WANT to keep ANY ATTENTION AWAY from that fact from the refs. IF they see that filler stickin out there like that, that could be like a TARGET to sniff around more.
Ill look at it a bit closer, but where its AT is about the ONLY place it can go, but maybe I can tweak it.

Thanks for the input!

MIGHT be able to swap that 45* tube for a 90* and turn it out toward the tub, cut OUT the stock filler door and re graft it in to the body and THEN...re make the head of the filler so it all ties together.

YOU F*CKERS are KILLING ME!!!!!!
You see what youre making me do...MORE F*CKING BODY WORK!
I HATE SHEET METAL WORK!:crybaby::bang:

:lol:

You did say you were gonna keep this one...


You will be happier in the long run brother. :cheers:
 
You will be happier in the long run brother. :cheers:

And that's all we care about. I swear that making you redo stuff for our amusement is the furthest thing from our minds. :hhmm:

Is the rubber fill tube pre-bent? You can't get a fully-flexible something? It's pretty close...
 
MIGHT be able to swap that 45* tube for a 90* and turn it out toward the tub, cut OUT the stock filler door and re graft it in to the body and THEN...re make the head of the filler so it all ties together.

YOU F*CKERS are KILLING ME!!!!!!
You see what youre making me do...MORE F*CKING BODY WORK!
I HATE SHEET METAL WORK!:crybaby::bang:

:lol:

I always learned, when someone is repeting he/she doesn't like something they mean the opposite.:hhmm:;)

And we love to see the fine results of it.
 
Keith,

Sorry bud, but I have to agree with everyone else on this one. I would get some metal tubing (exhaust will work, which you can get at kragen/autozone with various bends to get close) weld what you need. You were going to fill in that area in front of the back tire anyway. Plus, when you have all of your camp gear loaded, you will be glad you routed it to the outside of the body instead of having to move things around to fill up the tank. :D

Jack
 
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I may have missed it but what are you doing for a fuel level sender? Is it built into the pump unit?

Thanks,
Brittain
 
I agree to the idea of cutting out the old filler hole and grafting it on back. the vent and filler will be outside.
No use shortcutting this late in such a great build
 
And that's all we care about. I swear that making you redo stuff for our amusement is the furthest thing from our minds. :hhmm:

Is the rubber fill tube pre-bent? You can't get a fully-flexible something? It's pretty close...

Eddy,
Ive researched the PISS out of this. That hose that I got IS the most flexable FUEL HOSE you can buy. Its NOT cheap either. I got it for the tune of 28 bucks a FOOT! Though it is VERY FLEXABLE, its also REALLY STOUT and thus, hard to make tight turns with. If you notice in the pics I posted, I DID TRY and route it, but it just couldnt make the tight bends going through a hole in the fender.

I always learned, when someone is repeting he/she doesn't like something they mean the opposite.:hhmm:;)

And we love to see the fine results of it.

Keith,

Sorry bud, but I have to agree with everyone else on this one. I would get some metal tubing (exhaust will work, which you can get at kragen/autozone with various bends to get close) weld what you need. You were going to fill in that area in front of the back tire anyway. Plus, when you have all of your camp gear loaded, you will be glad you routed it to the outside of the body instead of having to move things around to fill up the tank. :D

Jack

Yeah....****!!!!
I just HATE sheet metal work! Its just a good thing Im half way decent at it and I CAN DO IT, begrudgingly.

I may have missed it but what are you doing for a fuel level sender? Is it built into the pump unit?

Thanks,
Brittain

I got one of the VDO 0-90 ohm senders from summit. Its one of the float arm sender deals that is adjustable. Havent installed it yet cuz I still have to weld the tank filler neck and re pressure test it. Once I do THAT step Ill install the sender.

I agree to the idea of cutting out the old filler hole and grafting it on back. the vent and filler will be outside.
No use shortcutting this late in such a great build

I think I got it figured and it actually SHOULD be a LOT CLEANER. All I REALLY have to do is turn the filler neck that I have ON THERE, out to the side and drop the level DOWN and match that with the stock filler door RELOCATED....Actually...I just got another idea for it...:hhmm:

F*CKERS keeping me HONEST on this s***!!!!:flipoff2:







Seriously...though...THANKS FOR IT!:o
 
Better to pay heed now Keith than potentially have a Molotov cocktail on your hands :D


Course you could forge ahead as is and plan for a super 4th of July show :flipoff2:
 
Better to pay heed now Keith than potentially have a Molotov cocktail on your hands :D


Course you could forge ahead as is and plan for a super 4th of July show :flipoff2:

LOL...I HONESTLY didnt think it was THAT BAD of a plan. How many people run fuel cells in their rigs. REALLY! Until I figured to do the tank build THAT was what I was gonna be relegated to which has all the SAME issues. That was my thinking anyway...
 
Fuel cells are a whole nuther animal
Keep us proud and do it right unless you invite us for some smores from the 4th july fire.
 
I love smores!
 
LOL...I HONESTLY didnt think it was THAT BAD of a plan. How many people run fuel cells in their rigs. REALLY! Until I figured to do the tank build THAT was what I was gonna be relegated to which has all the SAME issues. That was my thinking anyway...

It's not that bad of a plan. But, redoing it will be much more Sano..

Fuel cells are a whole nuther animal

Not really. They are just another way to store fuel. And a significant number of them are just metal or plastic cans..
 
It's not that bad of a plan. But, redoing it will be much more Sano..



Not really. They are just another way to store fuel. And a significant number of them are just metal or plastic cans..

I need something explained... Where would you use a vented cap vs non?
This re do could be really simple depending on the type of cap I need for the vortec and I could likely use the stock filler door.

I honestly don't know. The stock 40 fill cap is vented? Any requirements for the cap that needs to be adhered to? The vent line will either vent to a charcoal cannister, or a vent off the neck???
 
I need something explained... Where would you use a vented cap vs non?
This re do could be really simple depending on the type of cap I need for the vortec and I could likely use the stock filler door.

I honestly don't know. The stock 40 fill cap is vented? Any requirements for the cap that needs to be adhered to? The vent line will either vent to a charcoal cannister, or a vent off the neck???
The stock cap is not vented. The tank is vented but I can't remember how, I pulled all that crap off my 75 years ago.
 
Almost all modern vehicles have a sealed fuel filler cap. Emissions requirements require it. You do want to vent the tank somehow tho. Was a charcoal cannister part of that motors original smog equipment?

I ran into an issue with my 40 years ago. I didn't vent the tank at all, and when the summer heated up enough, It expanded the fuel and pushed pasted the carb needle and filled up the engine with gasoline. Really pissed me off.

Running some sort of vent is pretty important IMHO.
 
Almost all modern vehicles have a sealed fuel filler cap. Emissions requirements require it. You do want to vent the tank somehow tho. Was a charcoal cannister part of that motors original smog equipment?

I ran into an issue with my 40 years ago. I didn't vent the tank at all, and when the summer heated up enough, It expanded the fuel and pushed pasted the carb needle and filled up the engine with gasoline. Really pissed me off.

Running some sort of vent is pretty important IMHO.

Yes, the motor was originally run w a charcoal canister. So it would seem then that the computer would throw a code if the cap were vented and it wasn't supposed to be?
Agreed that I would need a vent. My concern was more the cap. I wasn't sure if the stock cap was vented or not and wether or not the bungs on the filler neck were interchangeable with one another.
 
Yes, the motor was originally run w a charcoal canister. So it would seem then that the computer would throw a code if the cap were vented and it wasn't supposed to be?
Agreed that I would need a vent. My concern was more the cap. I wasn't sure if the stock cap was vented or not and wether or not the bungs on the filler neck were interchangeable with one another.
The bungs are not interchangeable, however the correct caps for the Toyota "Bung" are available from Oriley.
 
Yes, the motor was originally run w a charcoal canister. So it would seem then that the computer would throw a code if the cap were vented and it wasn't supposed to be?
Agreed that I would need a vent. My concern was more the cap. I wasn't sure if the stock cap was vented or not and wether or not the bungs on the filler neck were interchangeable with one another.

stock used a purge valve to open up when needed to vent into the charcoal canister then close once finished. on the vortec I mean.
 
stock used a purge valve to open up when needed to vent into the charcoal canister then close once finished. on the vortec I mean.

So a non vented cap, like the stock 40 cap, is what I need then??? If so, that is greAt news. I ordered a weld on bung for the 40'cap cuz I hacked apart the filler neck. Could re use it if needed, but. I should then be able to fab all the stuff I need myself to make the stock filler door and location work.

So how then would I vent the tank? What do I need for that now ? That is all tied into the evap system then, right? My harness is sans smog gear and now I'm kinda stumped on what needs to happen with all that.
I can't seem to find any info on fuel system requirements for the vortec even searching on the web. T
Lstech isn't much help either on this topic.
 
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