Charcoal canister rebuild - 80 Series

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I need to do this on my GX470. Went out to Reddington Pass for a while today and the gas smell was pretty strong.
 
@Ken in AZ Def need to have this done on my fzj80. I live at 10500 feet and sometimes when I go to fill up it actually spits gas back at me. Anyway to send you mine and work out cost? Was going to go the ac Delco route then seen this. Lmk
 
@Ken in AZ Def need to have this done on my fzj80. I live at 10500 feet and sometimes when I go to fill up it actually spits gas back at me. Anyway to send you mine and work out cost? Was going to go the ac Delco route then seen this. Lmk
I have 2 sitting on my work bench I just need the charcoal and a little beer money 👍 you cover the mailing costs.
@Ken in AZ Def need to have this done on my fzj80. I live at 10500 feet and sometimes when I go to fill up it actually spits gas back at me. Anyway to send you mine and work out cost? Was going to go the ac Delco route then seen this. Lmk

Pm me your phone number 👍
 
Fact #1 - Even with a 100% correctly functional factory canister it is not uncommon this time of year (summer) to still notice some gas smell. The factory vents gas fumes through the charcoal and out of the canisters bottom into the air. The demand is such this time even with new charcoal the canister cant keep up.

Fact #2 - You should have zero pressure at the gas cap if your canister is working/modded correctly.
 
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Fact #1 - Even with a 100% correctly functional factory canister it is not uncommon this time of year (summer) to still notice some gas smell. The factory vents gas fumes through the charcoal and out of the canisters bottom into the air. The demand is such this time even with new charcoal the canister cant keep up.

Fact #2 - You should have zero pressure at the gas cap if your canister is working/modded correctly.
What does the “mod” look like? Which valve gets drilled and where? ....this question may answer itself momentarily. I’m pulling mine off today to open it up.
 
Nevermind. It’s self evident. 1 hour 15 minute job total. That includes some screwing off on a dirtbike project cause I have ADD.

Edit: keep in mind that JB WELD has about a minute of realistic working time when it’s 100F.
 
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@LandCruiserPhil I noticed on another thread, you commented about "Still getting 16.8MPG." Wondering when you rebuilt your canister, if you drilled out the check ball or just made sure it was operational? This looks like a good rainy day garage project and I wouldn't mind seeing a bit of increase in mpg's as a result of the rebuild. Although that isn't my main purpose for rebuilding.
 
If anyone needs a charcoal canister done I am doing a couple tomorrow morning. All you need to bring is the charcoal and my fee is a six pack of beer. Call me if you want to come over. Starting about 8am. 520-483-8599

Ken
 
@LandCruiserPhil I noticed on another thread, you commented about "Still getting 16.8MPG." Wondering when you rebuilt your canister, if you drilled out the check ball or just made sure it was operational? This looks like a good rainy day garage project and I wouldn't mind seeing a bit of increase in mpg's as a result of the rebuild. Although that isn't my main purpose for rebuilding.

To be 100% CLEAR the MPG increase from a canister mod is an LCP joke. Do not expect any increase in MPG just a trouble free canister for life.

Yes as the originator, I drilled out the check ball.
 
Haha, gotcha. Thanks...
 
To be 100% CLEAR the MPG increase from a canister mod is an LCP joke. Do not expect any increase in MPG just a trouble free canister for life.

Yes as the originator, I drilled out the check ball.

My version is simply smarter, faster, and definitely much better looking! Wait we still talking about the charcoal canisters? LOL
 
Yes I was going to cut a few open but I have been messing with other stuff on the 80. I have 2 or 3 sitting on my work bench right now. You just need to buy the charcoal the rest is really easy. We could do a few in short order.
Ken, I am a friend of Phil's and need a fully rebuilt canister for an 97. I will pay what you think is fair and mail you mine back to you. If you are interested, please call me 214-673-7960
 
If anyone needs a charcoal canister done I am doing a couple tomorrow morning. All you need to bring is the charcoal and my fee is a six pack of beer. Call me if you want to come over. Starting about 8am. 520-483-8599

Ken
Where in AZ are you?? Are you still doing them? I am in Phoenix and would do a CASE of beer! :) '97FZJ80 @272k mi and it needs it!
 
I'm doing a canister rebuild on my 97 now and thought I'd add some info here.

As for grinding down the lip, I used a stationary belt sander, set the canister upside down on it's ports and then slowly rotated it against the belt, making 3 or 4 passes.

PXL_20240908_224133189-M.jpg

I first stopped when I saw a parting line as such:

PXL_20240908_224137572-S.jpg


But it would not come apart at all. So I went a bit more and the line moved down, and a second line appeared.

PXL_20240908_224144297-S.jpg


At this point, with a plastic hammer, put it on it's side on a hard surface and give it some tapping while rotating it around to tap all around it and it should start to open up the gap.

PXL_20240908_224605907-S.jpg


Now use two screwdrivers, one flat against the lid's lip and another to pry against the first. This spreads the load of the prying action over a larger section of the lip and reduces bending. Tap some more if needed, it comes out about 1/2" before it's free.

PXL_20240908_225640983-S.jpg
 
I’m in the process of “rebuilding” mine right now. Temporarily I put on one of the $35 Chinese units and this has cured the tank pressure/de-pressuring issues.

I am ready to re-assemble the original unit and am wondering if it is really all that essential to get an airtight seal on the canister top? I have limited tools (hand/small electric) so welding is out of the question. I can do epoxy or RTV, but a full bead of either would make it pretty tough to get apart again.

The car has to go through the Colorado “front range” emissions test, so I’m counting on using the plastic cap to hide my work.

I would be grateful for any thoughts.
 
I put some Toyota FIPG on the lid and tapped it back into place, it isn't going anywhere and has been working find since.
Did you go all the way around with the FIPG? Or just do a few spots? I am wondering if an airtight seal is essential or if after removing the check valve the airtight seal is sort of redundant.

In other words- I am trying to make it easy to take apart in the future….
 
Did you go all the way around with the FIPG? Or just do a few spots? I am wondering if an airtight seal is essential or if after removing the check valve the airtight seal is sort of redundant.

In other words- I am trying to make it easy to take apart in the future….

Do you think you’ll still have the truck in 2050 when it needs to be done again:hillbilly:
 

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