Builds Cape Town Troop Carrier CTTC (1 Viewer)

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Here some photos of the double flaps. Still getting some mattresses made for the flaps, so haven't tested them yet

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Thanks for pictures. Did you create some form of flap on the main bed that support each flap when down? ie so that they are supported by more than just the sides?
 
I used a standard wooden slatted bedframe of 120x200cm. The flaps rest on the bedframe's crossmember. The bed has a mattress of 10cm thick, the flaps will have a 14cm mattress to cope with the height difference between slats and the flaps.

If I could redo the whole thing, I would weld a bedframe and mount slats on the frame. The wooden bedframe is currently too flexible (torsion wise), will have to see if it survives our trip.
 
Yes, our bases are metal (Aluminium) square tubing wedded all round with a 10mm plywood base for the 75mm mattress. We could easily add a "lip" on the main bed part onto which the two flaps could rest. As the flaps don't really ever carry much weight they should be fine (unless now that we can climb down with one up and one down, we sit on the one in the down position - that may not take the weight (of me!). Still worth trying it.

I would love to hear how successful it is to have a split back shelf, so please let us know once you have done a trip.
 
Just a quick update...

Tunisia was hot and dusty as expected, but we had the wonderful opportunity to visit the most Northern point of Africa! Getting our taxi driver to take us all the way was quite an ordeal, but we made it there and back to Tunis in one piece.

View attachment 1322376

I had the bed of the car Rhino-lined and am very happy with the outcome. Now the ply floor can go in, which will make working in the back much easier, as hobbeling around on the uneven steel floor was not the most comfortable experience.

View attachment 1322381
View attachment 1322383
Hi Troepadoer, this is probably a blast from a distant past but my journey is just beginning and I am curious to know what liner (deadening coating) you applied and how effective it was/is?
I am hoping to get away with a cheaper Bakker bin lining to resolve the tin can issue, rather than high end acoustic material and its associated cost. Do you have any experience or view on this?
 
Hi Troepadoer, this is probably a blast from a distant past but my journey is just beginning and I am curious to know what liner (deadening coating) you applied and how effective it was/is?
I am hoping to get away with a cheaper Bakker bin lining to resolve the tin can issue, rather than high end acoustic material and its associated cost. Do you have any experience or view on this?
Hallo 78ToYeti! Really sorry for replying so late :notworthy: We did apply a stick-down rubber product into the back cavities, and then Rhino-lined the whole floor. I unfortunately do not know the name of the stick-down product anymore, although it did seem to make a difference in noise levels! If you are really keen on the product's name, I can try do find out on Monday, as we are in Cape Town at the moment.

The rhino lining did not make any difference sound-wise, but we had that sprayed to protect the floor from the 12mm plywood that we put on top of it. We did not want the plywood to scrape off the paint and cause the floor to eventually rust through without us being able to pick that up before it was way too late.

At the moment my car is VERY noisy, because I took all the cabinets out in order to do a complete new install. The wood and carpeting made a very big difference in sound levels.

I hope that helps! Please post some pics of your car?!?!?!?
 
Hallo 78ToYeti! Really sorry for replying so late :notworthy: We did apply a stick-down rubber product into the back cavities, and then Rhino-lined the whole floor. I unfortunately do not know the name of the stick-down product anymore, although it did seem to make a difference in noise levels! If you are really keen on the product's name, I can try do find out on Monday, as we are in Cape Town at the moment.

The rhino lining did not make any difference sound-wise, but we had that sprayed to protect the floor from the 12mm plywood that we put on top of it. We did not want the plywood to scrape off the paint and cause the floor to eventually rust through without us being able to pick that up before it was way too late.

At the moment my car is VERY noisy, because I took all the cabinets out in order to do a complete new install. The wood and carpeting made a very big difference in sound levels.

I hope that helps! Please post some pics of your car?!?!?!?
Hallo 78ToYeti! Really sorry for replying so late :notworthy: We did apply a stick-down rubber product into the back cavities, and then Rhino-lined the whole floor. I unfortunately do not know the name of the stick-down product anymore, although it did seem to make a difference in noise levels! If you are really keen on the product's name, I can try do find out on Monday, as we are in Cape Town at the moment.

The rhino lining did not make any difference sound-wise, but we had that sprayed to protect the floor from the 12mm plywood that we put on top of it. We did not want the plywood to scrape off the paint and cause the floor to eventually rust through without us being able to pick that up before it was way too late.

At the moment my car is VERY noisy, because I took all the cabinets out in order to do a complete new install. The wood and carpeting made a very big difference in sound levels.

I hope that helps! Please post some pics of your car?!?!?!?


Hey Troepadoer,
Our (my) car is the 2011 version of yours that we bought a couple of months ago. I have removed the rear seats and drawers and had the Alu-Cab flip top fitted in December... very stressful indeed!! I should've taken heed of your warning, but that's another story that I'm hoping to forget soon.
I don't have a particular deadline for the build which is an absolute bloody luxury!! I have just finished designs for two stainless underbelly water tanks (40lt and 60lt).
The next was going to be the panels out and sound proofing, but as you say the cupboards and carpets kill that noise in any event, so I'm now thinking if its not just wasting hard earned cash? I too want to use marine ply rather than steel/aluminium and want to keep the rear as open and spacious as possible and rather limit any excessive in car fixtures. The plan is to live out of the car and not in the car.
I was really intrigued by your build and am rather inquisitive as to why you ripped it out to start again? What is going to be in your new build?
By the way, did you guys get your Canadian travel plans completed, and how was the car?
 
Hey Troepadoer,
Our (my) car is the 2011 version of yours that we bought a couple of months ago. I have removed the rear seats and drawers and had the Alu-Cab flip top fitted in December... very stressful indeed!! I should've taken heed of your warning, but that's another story that I'm hoping to forget soon.
I don't have a particular deadline for the build which is an absolute bloody luxury!! I have just finished designs for two stainless underbelly water tanks (40lt and 60lt).
The next was going to be the panels out and sound proofing, but as you say the cupboards and carpets kill that noise in any event, so I'm now thinking if its not just wasting hard earned cash? I too want to use marine ply rather than steel/aluminium and want to keep the rear as open and spacious as possible and rather limit any excessive in car fixtures. The plan is to live out of the car and not in the car.
I was really intrigued by your build and am rather inquisitive as to why you ripped it out to start again? What is going to be in your new build?
By the way, did you guys get your Canadian travel plans completed, and how was the car?
Hi 78ToYeti!

Please post a pic of your car?

Space is one of the biggest luxuries in any good design, and I can kick myself for falling for the rookie mistake of trying to pack in everything and the kitchen sink. We simply had too much cupboard space and too little open space, sooo...

This time around we are going for a much simpler, leaner design. The build will start in March or April, and I will post pics as we go along.

We are unfortunately a very long way off of a trip to Canada. But the dream is still alive.

Will you be willing to share your under belly water tank designs? I am MOST interested, since I still have to do that too.

Cheers, and have a great week!
 
Hi Troepadoer,

I ashamedly don't have any pics of the car since the roof and awning was fitted... I'm still recovering from that event! but here she is when she first arrived.
(Someone told me it's cheaper to buy a wire brush if your left palm is itching, this wire brush had an attachment!!)
IMG_0462.JPG


Yeah... open room and clear views are both so vital in small spaces.
What material do you plan on using this time around?

Here are a few snap shots from Sketchup for the tanks.
Rear Tank:
Rear Tank (1).png


RHS Tank (View 1):
Side Tank (1).png

RHS Tank (View 2):
Side Tank (2).png

I have no issues with sharing the detailed .SKP and .DWF files if you need them.

Nice to chat
Chao
 
Hi Troepadoer,

I ashamedly don't have any pics of the car since the roof and awning was fitted... I'm still recovering from that event! but here she is when she first arrived.
(Someone told me it's cheaper to buy a wire brush if your left palm is itching, this wire brush had an attachment!!) View attachment 1890862

Yeah... open room and clear views are both so vital in small spaces.
What material do you plan on using this time around?

Here are a few snap shots from Sketchup for the tanks.
Rear Tank:
View attachment 1890859

RHS Tank (View 1):
View attachment 1890860
RHS Tank (View 2):
View attachment 1890861
I have no issues with sharing the detailed .SKP and .DWF files if you need them.

Nice to chat
Chao
78ToYeti, he is a thing of beauty!!!

I will much appreciate it if you can mail me the .skp files to kallah.alet@gmail.com (btw my name is Alet :) )

I am using this layout as inspiration for the new build:
20181205_144309.jpg


Unfortunately I only have this one pic of the setup and don't know where I first saw it back in 2013.

Did you re-attach the protection wires from the the bullbar to the Alu-cab roof?

Cheers!
 
78ToYeti, he is a thing of beauty!!!

I will much appreciate it if you can mail me the .skp files to kallah.alet@gmail.com (btw my name is Alet :) )

I am using this layout as inspiration for the new build:View attachment 1891202

Unfortunately I only have this one pic of the setup and don't know where I first saw it back in 2013.

Did you re-attach the protection wires from the the bullbar to the Alu-cab roof?

Cheers!

3D's in the post.

I've seen that pic before as well... very inspirational, just the fridge and toilet to find a home for!

The protection wires will go back for the next trip. They tend to get in the way when fiddling under the hood and washing the car, so they won't be permanent.
I do need to strip the roof and awning mounting bolts out and rust proof everything to get some peace of mind. I guess your fitment guys did that when they did the install for you.

Good luck with the tanks, lemme know when your Sketchups are done for the new build, mine are still in progress.

Chao
 
Hi everyone-

I followed along on the build. I bought a troopy a year and a half ago and have been working on it since. I will attach a couple of pics and here Builds - Portland Troopy Build is the build thread. Lots of inspiration from you so thanks.

I have a 20gal water tank that's the current project. If you have any tips on hot water that doesn't involve propane I'd be grateful.
Inside View.jpg
3 Fingered Jack.jpg
 
Hi everyone-

I followed along on the build. I bought a troopy a year and a half ago and have been working on it since. I will attach a couple of pics and here Builds - Portland Troopy Build is the build thread. Lots of inspiration from you so thanks.

I have a 20gal water tank that's the current project. If you have any tips on hot water that doesn't involve propane I'd be grateful. View attachment 1960338View attachment 1960341
Hi Umpqua!

I'm also following your thread with interest 😄

We have just stripped out the Slowcooker's cabinets and started with a complete rebuild of the interior. It took us a while to figure out exactly what we want where. The plan is not to have to carry propane gasbottles, so we've been looking at the Duoetto MK2 from Aus.

The Slowcooker is having water tanks installed in Cape Town at the moment, so we will have to finalise the shower install soon 😎

Will post pics when I have my car back!
 
Hi Umpqua!

I'm also following your thread with interest 😄

We have just stripped out the Slowcooker's cabinets and started with a complete rebuild of the interior. It took us a while to figure out exactly what we want where. The plan is not to have to carry propane gasbottles, so we've been looking at the Duoetto MK2 from Aus.

The Slowcooker is having water tanks installed in Cape Town at the moment, so we will have to finalise the shower install soon 😎

Will post pics when I have my car back!
Hi, it's me again.

What tanks are you fitting and where (both on the car and by whom)?

I am having my Alu-Cab 270 awning fitted on Friday - can't wait.

Cheers,

Peter
 
Hi, it's me again.

What tanks are you fitting and where (both on the car and by whom)?

I am having my Alu-Cab 270 awning fitted on Friday - can't wait.

Cheers,

Peter
Alu-Innovations (in Cape Town) are putting 4 tanks into the side 'pockets' of the car totalling about 60 litres, and another 60 litres underneath (I think behind the second diesel tank).
 
That's great. I was under there at the very back, and it looks like that is a good spot for another tank. Are they doing it in SS or aluminium?
 
Good morning or evening as the case may be.

I too am going to stay away from Propane. I plan to drive the truck to South America and I don't want to deal with a box full of adapters to have a tank filled.

On my thread I am getting ready to post info in regard to the tank placement. It's approximately 20 gallons (75 liters), stainless steel and will be mounted under the truck. The tank will be mounted between the transmission and the rear fuel tank. I have attached a pic that will hopefully provide an idea. The e-brake cable will need to be relocated. You will notice some bolts coming down that will need to be ground down. They are holding the inside floor to the body. The tank will be mounted against that round looking bar that you will see. Pick taken looking towards the back of the truck. The blue hose is the sink drain which will go into a bucket.

All of my mechanical work is done by Josh Harper at Willamette Blvd Auto in Portland, Oregon. Josh is a fantastic mechanic and I seriously believe he is the best Land Cruiser mechanic in the US. He's a real artist when it comes to these trucks. There were some French people driving 70 series pickups that had issue in Death Valley, CA and they drove all the way to Portland to have Josh do the repair. He's developing a following at late 30 something years old. He works with his dad who started the shop in the 70's and he's grown up around it. It's just the two of them.

My plan on cooking is to use a Coleman Duel Fuel stove. It runs on white gas but regular gasoline as well. I have the stove now Amazon product ASIN B001D22TQC but I may go to a couple of single burner stoves. That will make it easier to cook inside but will also provide a backup in the event of one of them going out. I will definitely check out the MK2 stove though. I would be nice to be able to cook with diesel so only one fuel source but I've read mixed reviews on diesel cookers.

I will start "following" you now in the hopes that I can steal an idea or two. Also, if/when you make it to the states.

Interested in getting hot water on my truck so if you have intel.

Rodney.

PS. Check out the Quick Pitch table that's side mounted on my truck in the thread. Love that table. Super easy and I like that.
Tank Mount.jpg
Tank Mount 3.jpg
 
And.......at this point I don't plan to haul any water inside the truck other than maybe a gallon or two. A couple of fairly obvious concerns; freezing conditions and a puncture/leak.

Always something to think about.....
 
Hi again, it's Rodney in Portland.

I re-read the thread from a few pages back and have a comment or three on the Alucab top after using it for the last year or so. I'd like to see if you are having the same or similar experience/thoughts/issues.

First, the small access door on the sleep surface has a quite sharp point that has now managed to make a very small (just noticed it) HOLE in the tent. Apparently this has happened during the normal opening and closing of the door rubbing against the tent. The hole isn't much larger than maybe a pencil lead or large needle and I noticed it because a small amount of light was shining though the tent material ("WTF is THAT? It's a HOLE"). Has anyone experienced this? I'm wondering where I could get a small amount of tent material to cover the hole and what kind of glue (I guess) could be used to attach it. This is likely a question for Alucab. I will also need to glue some type of maybe foam to the point on the hatch door to cover the sharp point to keep it from happening again. If you "haven't" experienced this you might want to be on the lookout for it.

I do like the idea of splitting the hatch door so that you can enter/exit without waking the other person. It doesn't look like anyone has come up with the solution yet.? I need to follow up with Mookies as he said he had something sketched up.

I keep bedding stored in the tent. In the winter in Oregon it's cold so I keep a down comforter (Duvet), a sheet over the mattress and a couple of pillows. It's likely that Alucab makes the tent for warmer weather because I've noticed the top is very hard to close with the mentioned bedding in place. It's a very "tight" fit. Would another 1/4 to half an inch of space been a deal breaker for them?? Also, I think the cold weather affects the gas struts that hold the bed in the upright position because the bed itself has slammed down unexpectedly a couple of times. If that thing were to hit you in the head......anyone else experience this? I may need to install heavier struts.
 

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