Bumps on my 78’s rear tub/fenders? (2 Viewers)

[Fast Eddy]

Yup. Who's got part numbers?

And some white ones:

http://shop.cruiserparts.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=22451

http://shop.cruiserparts.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=86&products_id=22449

 

[antFJ]

sorry... i could have included that info

blue one = 90463-10335

shorter white one = 90463-10521

not sure about the other

edit: both fit in my 71 fender - the blue one looked the most stock imo

 

[Fast Eddy]

\
blue one = 90463-10335

90463-10337 is also a good number for a pack of 20 of the green/blue ones:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/20x-Cable-S...030-Toyota-90463-10337-6mm-Hole-/310535102871

No wonder they don't post the part numbers.

 

[antFJ]

haha nice.

if you go to their main page here you can see the part numbers listed above every part.

http://shop.cruiserparts.net/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=86

 

[Gusb]

Thanks for all the info - my toasted old white clamps look just like 90463-10521.

 

[OGBeno]

Yup. Who's got part numbers?

And some white ones:

http://shop.cruiserparts.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=22451

http://shop.cruiserparts.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=86&products_id=22449

There are a many PN's for these:

90463-10521

90463-10335

90463-10336

90464-00190

 

[OGBeno]

If anyone is interested:

 

[Gusb]

If anyone is interested:

Thanks beno

 

[Mechnizer]

Several folks make patch panels that allow for the work to be done on the frame. The panels I've seen installed require you to cut below the top of the tub lip a few inches - running from behind the door seam to rear door opening. From what I've been told and the final product completed - it's not too difficult.

I won't comment on which vendors sell and if their products are worthy - will let someone else chime in to that effect.

Alternatively - My parents bought me a 79 FJ 40 as a wedding present (back in the 90's - cool huh!) and my Pop had a body shop friend replace the rear fenders in the same way above but they made the replacement skins and bent the sheet right on the truck. Turned out pretty decent - and still kick myself to this day for selling that one (daily driver with AC all original).

Best of luck.

CCOT, Aqualu, both sell replacement panels that still need fitting.
I have just finished a 69-40 with similar body damage "rust" that is almost
a completed project "full restoration" .
I made the panels and tub replacement parts needed , this way the fit is better
and cost's are reasonable.

http://facebook.com/ccrbackshop
The work can be seen here if your curious to see it in progress .
Classic Car Restoration
623-465-7164

 

[Gusb]

All wheel drive golf cart

Funny how the camera exaggerates the color mismatch in the paint. Less apparent in natural daylight. Probably repair the adhesive on the inside hood support bracket and paint the hood next.

 

[subzali]

Is the original paint just oxidized or do you need to go back to your pigment recipe again?

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD at 85mph in an FJ40

 

[PabloCruise]

I'm pretty sure that part of the system is still all original. The PO added that black pump but everything up the wall looks original. I blew through the line first and didn't seem to get a lot of resistance, but there aren't many places I haven't found rust so I'm sure if it's a steel pipe there's some rust in it. Lots of water coming out but it doesn't seem to be under much pressure. I've got what I guess is the "dummy" nozzle on the hood.

You can order the squirter "frog" for a '76 that replace the dummy and squirts windshield from the hood.

 

[PabloCruise]

Looks like my OME suspension is settling in the back faster than the front. Driving much better overall but I guess I could just be getting more accustom to driving it. Maybe it needs a fat guy on the front bumper? Not very scientific but...

Why do all the lifts push the rear axle forward in the wheel opening? Almost like you are losing wheel base. I flipped my rear spring pack, cut the wheel openings to match and it looks like the factory should have done it that way...

 

[PabloCruise]

If anyone is interested:

I will be soon! Thanks.

 

[Gusb]

These 90463-10521 clamps seem to be what was there originally (on my 78 anyway).

"zip-ties can also be used. Start w/ the zip-ty under the fender..." FJ40Jim's tip works too.

 

[Gusb]

Nice visit and drive about with kiwidog the other day. Always worthwhile picking his cruiser brain . Got a part number for the little rubber rain gutter bumper that the hood lays back on - still available from Toyota.

 

[ccasteel]

Got a part number for the little rubber rain gutter bumper that the hood lays back on - still available from Toyota.

Might want to dab a bit of adhesive on that bumper. It doesn't hold as well as we would like.

 

[Gusb]

Might want to dab a bit of adhesive on that bumper. It doesn't hold as well as we would like.

Good advice with the adhesive.

Seems to work - hood rests right on the bumper. Though the fiberglass top flexes and moves around a little more than I would have expected.

 

[Gusb]

Trying to clean up the inside of my hood a little before painting the outside (iPhone photos). I’m assuming that at some point the brace was more or less flush to the hood with that blob of old adhesive? I’ll try to protect the label and keep most of the original paint.

Any recommendation for panel adhesive (3M, etc.). Looks like the brace will just push back down to the hood with a little force but it will need something decent to hold it there.

 

[Fast Eddy]

Interesting. Not a CA model, which would also mention "TR" along with AI and EGR. Do you have a carb fan?