Builds - Summer time Black FJ40 re-baselining

[JohnnyFish]

1973-1978 FJ40 Double Cup Holder stamped Metal Console - Etsy

This Vessels item by BH3DPrinting has 35 favorites from Etsy shoppers. Ships from Whitley City, KY. Listed on May 5, 2024

www.etsy.com

 

[FJ40Savvy]

I used a different option for a cup holder in the OEM console. It works for how I use Louie but 3D printed ones are likely better for off-road adventures.

Builds - Louie - 1973 FJ40 - A OEM work in Progress

The "Beast" is now official. Passed the safety inspection yesterday and went on the first Ice Cream run tonight.

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[TexFJ]

I had a nice time changing the axle shaft bearings. I discovered that unlike other models, mine has the sleeves. Good in that it protects the axle form wear and tear, but taking them off is a B$%H.

After trying to pry them off, I thought I would weld some bolts on the sleeve for some leverage, but welds were nowhere strong enough to get it off, so I went the bearing splitter route. Again, no luck. So after some time I just decided to cut them off with my dremel metal cutting wheel. Heating the sleeve up at the same time with a torch helped to pop it off before the wheel reached the axle.

Next came putting them on. This was the simplest thing I have done yet. I cooled the axle in ice water and put the sleeve in the oven. It literally just slid on.

 

[TexFJ]

Decided to see if I can get rid of some of the noise from the drivetrain. Trying to see what is coming from the diff and what is coming from the tranny/tc. First step is to change all the bearings in the rear diff. instead of banging on the third member and gauging the seal surface, I put a slight load on the third member with a jack then heated up the area and pop, it disconnected nicely.

 

[TexFJ]

I have some pitting in the gears but I'm thinking this is still OK. thoughts? I'm hoping the noise is coming from the old bearings and any backlash and not the pits.

 

[TexFJ]

OEM Toyota Koito H4 Headlight Upgrade Kit w/ Harness (ELEC81110KIT)

Cruiser Teq is the premier provider of high quality OEM, Japanese, and aftermarket Toyota Land Cruiser parts and accessories.

cruiserteq.com

Changed the harness, 100% improvement. Then inserted the new headlights and another 100% improvement.

 

[EWheeler]

I have some pitting in the gears but I'm thinking this is still OK. thoughts? I'm hoping the noise is coming from the old bearings and any backlash and not the pits.

View attachment 2872017

Taking a page from @wngrog 's book, you could swap rear diff to front and front diff to rear if the front looks like is in better shape. That rear diff would probably outlive all of us in the front of the 40 with as little use as it is likely to see in 4x4

 

[TexFJ]

Taking a page from @wngrog 's book, you could swap rear diff to front and front diff to rear if the front looks like is in better shape. That rear diff would probably outlive all of us in the front of the 40 with as little use as it is likely to see in 4x4

I LOVE that idea... hopefully the water didn't get into the front diff and rusted half of the ring gear... time to take it out and find out.

 

[wngrog]

Best case in your life your front ring gear will spin 10% of the time. Thanks for the tag. Glad some of my nuggets stick around this joint.

 

[JAG666]

All makes sense, except it seems like I won't be able to reduce the backlash, IMO. When I tighten the nut to adjust the preload, it actually pulls the pinion away from the ring gear and probably causes more backlash. Perhaps there's another reason for it. I'll reset the preload and hopefully it proves me wrong.



I'm thinking that those the shims and spacers in there? Or perhaps they're gone.

I bought my '74 FJ40 in Dec '73.. I asked to buy the "Proper Factory Service Manuals" for the '74.. What I got were an "F Engine" and "Chassis and Body" booklets. Neither are "year specific" NOR are they what I would call "service manuals".. I can say, they are NOT for anything newer than Dec 1973..
That said, under the "Differential & Rear Axle Housing Components", it does show "a shim" on the pinion, in "front" of the Pinion Bearing. Under the "Removal" heading, para 6 states:
"Loosen and remove the differential pinion shaft pin, and then pull the differential shaft out of the differential case, and remove the shaft spacer."
An "exploded view" of the differential DOES show a shim fitted to the "forward" side of the pinion bearing. The shim (#21 in my book) is listed as "Adjusting Shim".. I would take that to mean the pinion IS adjustable, via shims, as needed. I find NO reference/information as to a quantity/thickness required, etc.
Not a helluva help.. but I hope it does enlighten somewhat..
Charles 1974 FJ40

 

[TexFJ]

I was about to install the inner pinion bearing and stopped to think. I didn't remember seeing any shims in between the pinion gear and the bearing, BUT I unexpectedly find a shim on the inside of the inner bearing race and the 3rd member. So it seems like some years Toyota had the shim behind the race and others they had the shim behind the bearing.

I knocked out the race and was surprised to find the shim there, obviously I had to knock the crap out of it to remove the race and don't think it's usable anymore. The Sierra Gear&Axle IKTOYLC kit does include shims but I can't really tell how thick they are. I need .25 mm per the shim I knocked out. I will measure but I'm surprised they don't list the thickness.

​

This shows the shim on the carrier side per what I found.

 

[TexFJ]

we have contact.... Went through and adjusted all the backlashes. It surprised me how loose the .15mm - .20mm backlash felt. It was really easy to over tighten causing some wear and noise on the gears.

Also, putting back the pinion nut back on, I remembered from my TC rebuild on my 62 that I didn't need the washer if the new nut had a flange on it. I kept the washer on so the nut seemed like it wasn't fully on and it was hard to notch it in place. I maybe missed that note somewhere. But I convinced myself it was all good since the preload was just under 20 in*lbs.

Oh, if I ever do the diff rebuild again. I will definitely get something to hold the carrier, that seems like a must to do a good job.

 

[TexFJ]

Update on the Diff.... after I put it all together, about 80% of the gear noise went away. Still get a little high pitch tranny 3rd gear noise between 35-45 mph, but since I rebuilt the transmission I'm going to call that acceptable.

I was getting ready to change my water pump and wanted to flush the coolant from the block, but F$%#!!! I'm thinking the PO poured some sealant in the coolant. I took the engine plug out by the 6th cyl and it is blocked up. Tried everything, including drilling in but nothing helps to free things up. I'll keep trying but so glad I found someone measured the distance between the edge and the cylinder, otherwise I'd be paranoid. it seems to be 1.25".

Block Drain and Drain Plug Removal

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[TexFJ]

 

[TexFJ]

Replaced the muffler with a skinny OEM version. This substitute has a pretty large intake pipe, too big for the 2” o.d. Exhaust pipe. I had to use a short coupler with a 2” I.d.

 

[JohnnyFish]

Is that hung or hard mounted against the frame? Seems like it would be hot and loud if the later.

 

[TexFJ]

Supposedly there is a cushion in there. My strap is not OEM but does the same thing.

 

[firemanj92]

Is that hung or hard mounted against the frame? Seems like it would be hot and loud if the later.

I’m preparing to make the 5/16“ fuel lines from tank soft lines to fuel filter and not sure how to make the ends like images below. Anyone make these that can share the tool/technique?

Also looking for OEM hose clamps that are NLA.

View attachment 2882293
View attachment 2882295
View attachment 2882297

Supposedly there is a cushion in there. My strap is not OEM but does the same thing.

View attachment 2882469

For heat reflection I found Flowmaster sells a heat shield kit #51022 for their largest 70 series that works great with the factory muffler and factory bracket. And least expensive kit out there.

 

[TexFJ]

On my way in adjusting the valve clearances, here is what I found. My first experience in opening an F engine valve cover (seems I missed F.5 by 6 months)

Who paints the head and the valve springs???? I guessing this engine sat for several years.

Should I assume the rust particles went down to the crankshaft and oil pan? Plugging up the oil pump?

 

[Green Bean]

Oh my, that doesn't look great. But be aware of project creep. I've read here of folks that started off with something akin to a valve adjustment or water pump and ended up doing a complete frame-off with engine rebuild. Good luck.