Build Up "The Cucumber"

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OK now that I have a job again and I am making money I can finish getting the engine running on a test stand. To that end I am really only waiting right now on one thing and that is the adapter plate from Chris in Idaho. Hopefully it will be at my house when I get home tonight.

Here is a list of fuel parts that anybody doing a TBI conversion on an F will need to get. Nobody has these collected in one place so I am putting them here.

DORMAN 800-151 Fuel Line Connector
DORMAN 800-153 Fuel Line Connector
GATES 27085 5/16 Fuel Hose 10'
IDEAL 52F15 5/16 Hose Clamp x 10
AIRTEX E8228 Fuel Pump
GATES 27088 3/8 Fuel Hose 10'
IDEAL 52F16 3/8 Hose Clamp x 10
 
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Well even though I got an email from Chris in Idaho on Saturday stating that the adapter plate has shipped, I still haven't recieved it nor has he replied to my emails asking where it is. There is also no contact phone number on his website. TBI Adapter Plates

I really wanted to support a new small vendor from mud but I am not very happy with the turn around or service. I am sure there is a good reason for it but I haven't gotten an explaination yet. I am hoping I didn't just waste my money.
 
Found out that you can get pigtail connectors from Ford to complete the wiring to the Taurus fan and the edis-6 coil pack. They are only made by Ford and they are not cheap. One is 30 odd bucks and the other is 40 odd buck. The one for the Taurus fan isn't made anymore and the guy told me that there appears to be just one in stock somewhere in Texas. Hopefully I can get it but the chances are slim.

Taurus fan pigtail connector, wire harness side. WPT706
EDIS-6 coil pack pigtail connector. WPT511
 
I see on your engine rebuild you used an "assembly lube" on the barrels and bearings
I have never seen Assembly Lube in South Africa, wish we could get it here.
I normally use a good dose of new/clean 20W50 engine oil on barrels, pistons and rings.
And, on the mains and big ends (white metal bearings), I apply a layer of industrial grade Petroleum Jelly together with a squirt of new/clean 20W50 engine oil.
Is the Assembly Lube thicker or thinner than engine oil?
 
joeyg1973 said:
Well even though I got an email from Chris in Idaho on Saturday stating that the adapter plate has shipped, I still haven't recieved it nor has he replied to my emails asking where it is. There is also no contact phone number on his website. TBI Adapter Plates

I really wanted to support a new small vendor from mud but I am not very happy with the turn around or service. I am sure there is a good reason for it but I haven't gotten an explaination yet. I am hoping I didn't just waste my money.
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I still think the Downey plate even with it's issues is the best product on the market to date.
 
Trollhole said:
I still think the Downey plate even with it's issues is the best product on the market to date.
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Yeah if this doesn't work out I already had that in mind. You gave it a very good review and it does look like they put more thought into it than the others. I just wanted to give the new guy a shot and be the guinea pig for mud.
 
I need to know what the heck this hole is on the manifold side of the block... It seems to be threaded, but it isn't a 6mm or a 7mm. It actually looks like it also doesn't appear to have a end. Looks like it goes into the water jacket so I have concerns about it. Ether way I am thinking this is a good place for me to put my knock sensor.
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Pretty pictures. Keep in mind that some of the items are temporary, namely the valve cover and the distributor cap. I need to wait till I hook up my bigger oven so that I can clear PC my the polished valve cover I have. As for the cap, I just need to get on my lathe and make a replacement, but it isn't high on the priority list right now. The spark plug wires are temp too... they are the ones I got off the Ford V6 along with the coil pack.

I have the coil pack setup so that one piston is TDC and the other piston is at BDC are wired to the same dual coil on the pack. I have wired it 1+4, 2+5, 3+6. I think this is right, but it never hurts to have someone check your work.
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I feel that replying to questions below from Marshall which are more specific to my setup here is better than cluttering up my tbi adapter review thread.

In the thread https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/293410-review-tbiadapterplates-com-f-adapter.html post #12 Marshall asked the following.

...
Trollhole said:
You map sensor will also need to be either looped back to the back or run the map up in the front of the block. More wires. You need to have the MAP sensor line as short as you can get it.

All you Vac ports you need should be on the manifold or the TBI unit it'sself. You shouldn't need one in the spacer below.
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Take a look at the first picture, unlike the GM computer, the MS2 has it's map sensor built in to the computer. I just need to use some hard plastic line from a good vacuum source to run it back to the computer. I had my doubts about running it like this, but there is all kinds of testing on the MS2 sight that show the difference between getting the vacuum right the source as opposed to using a hose is so small it is negligible. I agree that getting vacuum from the port up front that the regular GM one is hooked to is the better way to do it then what I have it hooked to now, but for me to get an adapter and a small length of hard plastic hose to hook up to that means a 30 minute car ride one way. I will worry about it at some other time.

I agree that I don't need the vacuum port in the spacer and that is why I have broken it out. The spacer cracked in removing the pipe so I epoxied it back together and I am going to fill up the hole left behind now.
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joeyg1973 said:
I have the coil pack setup so that one piston is TDC and the other piston is at BDC are wired to the same dual coil on the pack. I have wired it 1+4, 2+5, 3+6. I think this is right, but it never hurts to have someone check your work.
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Tired and going to bed but firing order is 1-5-3-6-2-4 so shouldn't that be 1+6 5+2 3+4 ?

Damm now I am going to think about your MS and firing order all night.

One idea on the MAP, I ran a length of soft copper pipe with stiff but flexiable plastic? sections both ends.

EDIT: See the problem - "wasted" half of the spark should be firing into exhaust stroke of the cylinder - hit yourself on the head with that knock sensor.
 
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Is there an advantage to wasted spark on a nonturbo engine? I just got a VW 1.8T running on MS2 and Mega Squirt's running the coil packs with wasted spark. I did it because it was easier to run 2 ignition wires out of MS than 4 and wasted spark can help spool the turbo.

Kevin
 
malcb said:
Tired and going to bed but firing order is 1-5-3-6-2-4 so shouldn't that be 1+6 5+2 3+4 ?

Damm now I am going to think about your MS and firing order all night.

One idea on the MAP, I ran a length of soft copper pipe with stiff but flexiable plastic? sections both ends.

EDIT: See the problem - "wasted" half of the spark should be firing into exhaust stroke of the cylinder - hit yourself on the head with that knock sensor.
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Hmm I think you may be right about the firing order. I was just finishing up a 13 hour day of driving around collecting parts, welding, test fitting, digging up parts that are in boxes and bags somethwhere, etc., etc. Good catch.

Good idea on the copper pipe. I will use that when I get around to putting the engine in the truck.

I already bought the knock sensor I might as well use it.
 
Toyo FJ40 said:
Is there an advantage to wasted spark on a nonturbo engine? I just got a VW 1.8T running on MS2 and Mega Squirt's running the coil packs with wasted spark. I did it because it was easier to run 2 ignition wires out of MS than 4 and wasted spark can help spool the turbo.

Kevin
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I never heard about wasted spark helping to spool a turbo. I can't really understand how a spark in an oxygen depleted exhaust stroke could help at all actually. In the case of the MS2 I can't really see how coil on plug or 1 coil per plug is any better than wasted spark. Not like you can do GDI or anything crazy like that with the MS2 as it is mainly geared towards TBI.
 
In the first picture, does anybody know what kind of plug I need to fill this hole?
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I need some ideas to mount the coil pack on the engine somehow. I have some thoughts, but nothing solid yet so I am open to suggestions. 2 pics.

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Toyo FJ40 said:
Is there an advantage to wasted spark on a nonturbo engine? I just got a VW 1.8T running on MS2 and Mega Squirt's running the coil packs with wasted spark. I did it because it was easier to run 2 ignition wires out of MS than 4 and wasted spark can help spool the turbo.

Kevin
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No particular advantage except no dizzy, suppose that might make waterproofing easier.....

Never heard of wasted spark helping turbos, sounds unlikely. I know of MS systems running anti lag like used on rally cars, air addmitted by an idle valve under closed throttle conditions and mixture ignited while exhaust valve is open or just before but I would guess wasted spark wouldn't work with that.

Any reference for the theory?
 
joeyg1973 said:
I agree that I don't need the vacuum port in the spacer and that is why I have broken it out. The spacer cracked in removing the pipe so I epoxied it back together and I am going to fill up the hole left behind now.
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The pictured spacer is from F engine.

The 2F spacer would have been a better choice because :
The plenum is larger.
There is no PCV tube in the front.
There is a heat insulator shield that covers up most of the headers near the TB.
 
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