Build Up "The Cucumber"
- Thread starter joeyg1973
- Start date
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Interesting, I think I remember your description of the crank pulley sounding different to mine. Might be able to get some pictures end of next week when I get back into the workshop.
I take it you ground the rivets off? I did the same and when it goes back on it's going to be wired , if one of those come loose on mine the bolt will rip the cam gear cover up, the bolts go in from the engine side and through the flange into tapped holes on the serpentine pulley. I needed an 82mm diameter on the pulley so I didn't have much to play with, if the pulley had been larger (smaller supercharger spinning faster or more boost) then I might have had an easier time.
My crank pulley has a single V, no PS, AC or Air Pump to drive, ECE spec perhaps? The back flange and the single V are in one piece, I could have cut it off but the steel is very hard and having a V belt drive lets me leave the alternator and water pump as stock for the moment.
My serpentine drive would replace your double V drive, I machined the flange (chucked on the inside so the seal surface isn't marked) to get a good true surface and a location for the serpentine pulley. Next time (I see myself making more than one to vary boost) I might bolt the rough pulley block up and do the final machining on the whole unit.
All in all it was quite easy to make the drive, larger lathe and better tools would help, incorporating a 36-1 toothed wheel might be an idea. I would always retain the harmonic balancer as well.
- Thread starter
- #44
I don't have skills... I just know how to read and research extensively before I do anything. What you don't see is how many times I fxxx things up over and over again till I get it right. That is why I keeps saying that this project will be done when it is done.
- Thread starter
- #45
I forget what kind of supercharger you are using, M90?
I am probably going to weld the bolts to the back of the balancer. I was contemplating putting them in with some green lock tight instead. What do you think?
I didn't grind them out... I drilled the head of each then air hammered them off when they were sufficiently weakened.
As a suggestion, I would not have threaded the holes on the serpentine pulley. If you are going to make more than one serpentine pulley you are going to want them to be easily interchangeable. Lightly weld each bolt to the harmonic balancer or green lock tight as all that you need to do is prevent them from spinning when you tighten the nut. Put the nut on with a lock washer and if you are really paranoid about it drill the nuts and bolts for some wire. This will make swapping the serpentine pulley a lot easier. IMHO this is probably the better route.
How much would you charge me to make a serpentine pulley for my crank and water pump?
M112 - big one
probably too big almost 25% bigger than the M90, came of an Jag KXR, same engine size but at a guess more boost than I would want to run, problem is spin them too slow and the efficency is poor, lots of air sort of leaks past.Have you done any calcs on the supercharger sizing, pulleys etc? If you don't have Corky Bells book it worth a look, I could scan a few relevant pages as a starter, be interested to see what you came up with as a check against my calcs.
You will see why I couldn't bring the bolts through and tack them onto the back when I post the photos, the diameter is only 82mm.
I wouldn't make and sell these because;
I haven't run mine yet
it's only made in aluminum
the lathe is too small to make this part easily or in steel, machining 4" block of al was hard enough and I guess your going to need larger?
When I get a drawing sorted your most welcome to a copy and if I can get some made I will let you know.
Can't wait to give the supercharger a spin, I did use the lathe and my new pulley to give it a spin (hand holding the supercharger
) spun it at perhaps 800 rpm, it was loud.- Thread starter
- #49
Pictures Pictures Pictures... the visual guide to piston install.
Ok I am reassembling this a second time because the motor has been sitting all winter and frankly my garage was filthy when I assembled it and it got more filthy as I went and I never really took the precautions I should have to keep it clean and dust free. Anyway it gives me a chance to take pictures so that you can see how to put in the pistons. I didn't take pictures of the simple straight forward things like installing the crank of the camshaft.
On to the pictures and the descriptions.
First picture shows proper ring orientation. First or top compression ring has it's gap in the lower right of the of the picture. The second or bottom compression ring has it's gap in the upper left of the picture. They gaps are 180 degrees away from each other. Notice the relation of both to the indicator notch on the piston top that indexes to the front of the engine.
Second picture shows the first or top compression ring gap a little better as well as the top side indicator dot for the ring slightly to the left of the gap.
Third picture shows the second or bottom compression ring gap a little better as well as the top side indicator dot for the ring slightly to the right of the gap.
Ok I am reassembling this a second time because the motor has been sitting all winter and frankly my garage was filthy when I assembled it and it got more filthy as I went and I never really took the precautions I should have to keep it clean and dust free. Anyway it gives me a chance to take pictures so that you can see how to put in the pistons. I didn't take pictures of the simple straight forward things like installing the crank of the camshaft.
On to the pictures and the descriptions.
First picture shows proper ring orientation. First or top compression ring has it's gap in the lower right of the of the picture. The second or bottom compression ring has it's gap in the upper left of the picture. They gaps are 180 degrees away from each other. Notice the relation of both to the indicator notch on the piston top that indexes to the front of the engine.
Second picture shows the first or top compression ring gap a little better as well as the top side indicator dot for the ring slightly to the left of the gap.
Third picture shows the second or bottom compression ring gap a little better as well as the top side indicator dot for the ring slightly to the right of the gap.
- Thread starter
- #50
First picture shows the oil ring setup and orientation on the piston. The top and bottom oil ring gaps are spaced about 1 inch from the split in the spring steel in the center. The best way to assemble the oil rings assembly is to line the split in the spring steel to about the center of the pin on either side, put the bottom ring on and align the gap to the first fold or crease (for lack of a better description) on the unfinished cast part of the piston to the right of the pin. Top one is done the same way, just to the left. I then spin the whole assemble to the right so that the bottom ring gap aligns with the pin. This makes the gaps in the oil rings about equal from the gaps in the compression rings. Not like this matters that much but in my world it is the little things that count.
The second picture shows the pin lock screw on the rod in relation to the front indexing notch on the top of the piston. The pin lock screw always goes to the left of the indexing notch.
The second picture shows the pin lock screw on the rod in relation to the front indexing notch on the top of the piston. The pin lock screw always goes to the left of the indexing notch.
- Thread starter
- #51
While these pictures are a bit blurry they show the top of my ARP rod bolts for a Supra after the heads have been machined (not ground) to match the original bolts. Rather than have me explain everything all over again about the ARP rod bolt stuff, just follow the link below.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/201382-arp-connecting-rod-main-bolts.html
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/201382-arp-connecting-rod-main-bolts.html
- Thread starter
- #52
Picture of the gap that exists between the bolt and the hole. Again refer to the link in the last post for a full explanation. The short of it is that the gap doesn't matter as the bolt is only used to tension down then cap to the rod. The cap and the rod are what handle alignment on the crank.
- Thread starter
- #53
First picture shows the assembly lube properly applied to the top of the cylinder in a continuous circle before the install of the piston. I have learned that it is better to be generous with assembly lube than not.
Second picture show the 2 x 3" 3/16ths fuel line I use as a guide and scratch and ding protection when installing the pistons. It also shows the incredibly cheap and horrible ring compressor I bought.
Third picture shows the proper application assembly lube to the rod before you put the piston in. I don't have a picture of it, but put the same streak on the cap before you put it on. Don't smear it out with your fingers are they are filthy and have dirt on them that you don't want in there. The oil will squish into all the right places just by assembling the cap and the rod to the crank.
Second picture show the 2 x 3" 3/16ths fuel line I use as a guide and scratch and ding protection when installing the pistons. It also shows the incredibly cheap and horrible ring compressor I bought.
Third picture shows the proper application assembly lube to the rod before you put the piston in. I don't have a picture of it, but put the same streak on the cap before you put it on. Don't smear it out with your fingers are they are filthy and have dirt on them that you don't want in there. The oil will squish into all the right places just by assembling the cap and the rod to the crank.
- Thread starter
- #54
Ok last picture here shows the position of the journal on the crank for the piston being installed. This happens to be piston #2 and it is as far down as it will go.
As far as installing the piston into the block, well I haven't got enough hands to do the work and take the pictures at the same time. It is pretty straight forward and I am sure if you google piston installation you would find plenty of guides with pictures. I use the handle of an all brass hammer to knock them home once I have the ring compressor setup right. Some people use special plastic hammers and such to do this job but I haven't got one of those. If you do find an all rubberized or plastic hammer make sure it isn't filled with sand or any other abbrasive to give it weight as the sand has a tendency to get out.
As far as installing the piston into the block, well I haven't got enough hands to do the work and take the pictures at the same time. It is pretty straight forward and I am sure if you google piston installation you would find plenty of guides with pictures. I use the handle of an all brass hammer to knock them home once I have the ring compressor setup right. Some people use special plastic hammers and such to do this job but I haven't got one of those. If you do find an all rubberized or plastic hammer make sure it isn't filled with sand or any other abbrasive to give it weight as the sand has a tendency to get out.
- Thread starter
- #55
When you put on the nuts for the ARP rod bolts make sure you follow the instructions that come with them. I don't know many people that have a stretch guage so use the torque method with their molly lube. Basically you need to tighten and loosen then 5 times to 45 foot pounds. It's a bit tedious but you will notice it gets easier each time you torque it.
Im interested in how the serpentine belt is coming along. I would like to convert my 2FE over. I've been looking at different harmonic balancer pulley setups. I did find an after market HO harmonic balancer with the serpentine pulley for a 1FZ. Just curious if they interchange with a 2F.
- Thread starter
- #57
It's not going anywhere right now. I need my lathe to do that, and I need my house expansion done to use it. It's rediculous how long it takes to get town approval and permits where I live. Construction is going to start on Thursday.
- Thread starter
- #59
If you get your hands on one check it against the specs I have up. I would love to be able to just pull something out of the parts bin. Right now I am either going to cut one from scratch out of 6" wide billet inch aluminum rod or cast a mold, pour some aluminum, and them cut out the ribs on a lathe. Haven't decided yet.
arp rod bolts
Hot Rod Fastening Hardware Charts - Rod And Custom Magazine
my first thought when seeing that you were machining material on the rod bolts was to wonder if they were case hardened?
I found this great article on the bolts since they are through hardened then it's not a prob. But, anyone looking to use different rod bolts should be sure if theirs are case hardened or not
From the ARP article
" One of the ways to strengthen fasteners is by hardening. Heat treating is the typical method with carbon steel. Bob explained that many of the fasteners available from the aftermarket are case hardened, which makes them strong on the outer layer, but remain flexible inside. The advantage is a flexible, less-brittle part; the disadvantage is less strength. ARP products are through hardened, which makes them capable of bearing higher loads"
removing material from a case hardened part=not a good idea
Hot Rod Fastening Hardware Charts - Rod And Custom Magazine
my first thought when seeing that you were machining material on the rod bolts was to wonder if they were case hardened?
I found this great article on the bolts since they are through hardened then it's not a prob. But, anyone looking to use different rod bolts should be sure if theirs are case hardened or not
From the ARP article
" One of the ways to strengthen fasteners is by hardening. Heat treating is the typical method with carbon steel. Bob explained that many of the fasteners available from the aftermarket are case hardened, which makes them strong on the outer layer, but remain flexible inside. The advantage is a flexible, less-brittle part; the disadvantage is less strength. ARP products are through hardened, which makes them capable of bearing higher loads"
removing material from a case hardened part=not a good idea