Build Up "The Cucumber"

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If anybody can see anything that I am missing from my list of TODO or see's anything of concern in the pictures, please let me know. I believe that there is always room for improvement and a second set of eyes is always helpful. Constructive criticism only please this post isn't meant to be flame bait, but humor and poking fun is always appreciated. :)
 
joeyg1973 said:
That's what I thought. I am just going to put them in with the red loctite and be done with it.
Click to expand...
Early engines used a bend-up locktab on flywheel bolts.
Later truck just used plain bolts w/ loctite.
 
joeyg1973 said:
OK here is a list of what I need to do yet.


  1. Find the spacer that goes between the top of the TBI and the bottom of the plastic plenum I got from a 4.9 TBI Caddy.
  2. Tap the plastic plenum for 1/2 NPT to get the air temp sensor in place. There are a couple of places on the piece that look like they were designed for this purpose.
  3. Wire above up.
  4. Find a crush washer for one of the smaller plug bolts for the oil filter mounting flange.
  5. Put on balancer and pulley.
  6. Modify alternator bracket for the CS 144.
  7. Find appropriate belt to fit.
  8. Finish off plumbing for the cooling system.
  9. Finish off plumbing for the fuel system.
  10. Tap block for knock sensor.
  11. Wire up the rest of the knock sensor.
  12. Bolt in starter.
  13. Wire up LC-1 WBO2 sensor.
  14. Hook up the PCV hose to the plastic plenum.
  15. Create a mounting bracket for the EDIS 6 pack.
  16. Wire up the battery, starter, on/off/starter switch.
  17. Wire power to MS2 Extra.
  18. Fire it up!
  19. Miller time.
  20. Pass out from exhaustion and the pain from the bursitis in my right shoulder.
Click to expand...

Something I didn't put in the list was wire up the 3FE distributor (Nippendenso CAS) MS2-Extra Nippondenso CAS Manual to the MS2extra. I did this last night. In my case the lower ring with the most teeth connects to the tach on the Relay Board and the upper ring with 2 teeth connects to the SPR1 that I added to my relay board. The third wire goes to ground. There is an interesting issue with the 3FE dist in that it uses the same color wire, orange, for both the ground and the second 2 teeth ring and it covers all the wires up going out of the dist till you hit the plug. The best way to discover which one is which is to open the dist up and jam a test probe from your multi-meter set to continuity test into the split of the orange ground wire and then test each orange wire at the end to find it.

I know I know I need to put up pics.

I had to skip right to 19 because of 20 last night.


I also got the parts I was looking for from Jim C. so that knocks out item 4. As always Jim was great to deal with and I got exactly what I was looking for at a great price. Highly recommended. He can also confirm for the curious that yes I do really have a Jersey accent. :)

Anybody have a standard GM TBI air cleaner spacer that the want to get rid of so I can take care of item 1?
 
OK I figured I would put up 2 pictures up of the tool I made to take off the crank pulley nut when I took this whole thing apart. This made taking the nut off as smooth as butter. It is now part of my engine test stand... ain't metal grand? :)


BTW do I need one of those fold up lock washers for this thing or am I just fine cranking it down to 130 ft/lbs?
IMG_0112.webp
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Some of the Gates hoses that I ordered started to come in. This is the top radiator to water neck. Gates compared to the old one that was on there. Big difference in quality.
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Some pics of some wiring.

The first pic even though it is a bit blurry is of the plug going to the IAC. The clip for the weather pack is on the left and the wiring for it in this orientation to the MS relay board terminal block is as follows.

Gray wire, Lower left - S1
White wire, Upper left - S2
Tan wire, Lower right - S3
Green wire, Upper right - S4

Second pic is of the TPS connector. It connects to the MS relay terminal block as follows. I twisted the signal and return together to minimize interference. When it goes in the truck I will be putting a wire mesh sleeve thingy that is grounded around this under the heat shrink that is yet to go on to make damn sure there is no interference.

Black wire, Left - TPS Ret
Yellow wire, Middle - TPS Sig
Red wire, Right - TPS vref

Third picture is of the injector connections. Injectors don't care which why they are wired so positive and negative doesn't matter. You don't need to worry about outside interference either. That said they are wired to the MS relay board terminal block as follows.

Orange wire, Farthest inj from engine - INJ1
Red wire, Farthest inj from engine - INJ +
Yellow wire, Nearest inj to engine - INJ2
Red wire, Nearest inj to engine - INJ +
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The first pic is... well just there for now... it's too complex to explain it just yet and I ain't done with it yet, so I will do it at a later date.

The second pic is of the 3fe dist wired up to the MS relay board. You can see the 2 orange wires that I mentioned in the previous post. One being ground, the other being the sensor lead. Wired up as follows.

Purple wire, top - Tach
Black wire, middle - ground, anywhere will do
White wire, bottom - Spr1, this is the terminal block I added to my relay board.

Last pic is of the cheapo mechanical gauges I got. I wanted electric, but that is all that the Pep Boys had at the time in the cheapo bin. The indicator led on the left is for the KnockSenseMS knock sensor. The push button and the indicator led on the right is for the Innovate WBO2 sensor. More to come about these in the future.
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I was going through the thread and the ARP rod bolt gap has me concerned. The cap IS actually located by the shank of the rod bolt and that keeps the two halves of the circle aligned.


with the specified oil clearance of .0008"-.0017", that means that the cap without the press fit shank sizing can shift from side to side that amount. your rod bearings wont last too long if thats the case, since the lip of the bearing caused by the offset will quickly scrape the oil off the journal, and cause hot spots which will lead to sluffing off bearing material, and exposing the steel shell, which will kill the crank quickly.

heres a pic of what I mean, sorry for the MS paint drawing... the white gap is an exaggerated oil clearance
ARP issue.webp
 
HMMM... that makes sense... hang on here let me call up my machine shop and see what they thing... Not being a Jersey wiseass about it either, I really am calling them concerning it. OK I just got off the phone with them... I trust these guys completely... They knew exactly what I was talking about... they said they never would have used them if there was any shift and they were not tight and snug. If you look at the pictures in the ARP thread, there is a chamfer(is that the correct word for the angle cut in the bolt?) that will center itself in on the corresponding chamfer in the cap and under tension it isn't going to move side to side. They put the lockite in the rod, put in the bolt, put on the cap, and tighten it down till the loctite sets. The chamfer on both the original and the arp supra bolts is at the same exact spot.

I remember the ARP guy saying the same thing that the chamfer would center the bolt concentricity or something like that. Read what he said here...

IH8MUD Forums - View Single Post - ARP Connecting Rod Main Bolts
 
joeyg1973 said:
OK I figured I would put up 2 pictures up of the tool I made to take off the crank pulley nut when I took this whole thing apart. This made taking the nut off as smooth as butter. It is now part of my engine test stand... ain't metal grand? :)


BTW do I need one of those fold up lock washers for this thing or am I just fine cranking it down to 130 ft/lbs?
Click to expand...

i would get that lock washer - i would say toyota must have put it there for a reason

- looking good!
 
joeyg1973 said:
Some of the Gates hoses that I ordered started to come in. This is the top radiator to water neck. Gates compared to the old one that was on there. Big difference in quality.
Click to expand...



New, compared to something 25+ years old?


:lol:



Can't get anything past you...


:lol:



BTW the new OEM hose for that application looks better than your Gates stuff...

:meh:
 
I guess what I would be concerned with is:

1: there is no camfer in the rod cap bolt hole. Its straight through.

2: the rod bolt shank clearly is tight clearance to the tolerance of the rod cap hole, this is what centers the cap correctly, and ensures the "circle" halves have not shifted...
rod cap hole.webp
rod bolt clearance.webp
 
cruiserbrett said:
I guess what I would be concerned with is:

1: there is no camfer in the rod cap bolt hole. Its straight through.

2: the rod bolt shank clearly is tight clearance to the tolerance of the rod cap hole, this is what centers the cap correctly, and ensures the "circle" halves have not shifted...
Click to expand...


Ugh... please stop... what you are saying all makes sense... I really don't want to have to break this motor down again... You know what... I am gonna run with it because my machine shop does say it is fine. I can see what you are saying but I can also see what they are saying... I just can't explain it right. I will talk to them again and get Walt on the phone and see what he says. I want to cry now... Good catch, but where were you 9 month to a year ago? :crybaby:

I will say this much, when I put the rod and cap together when they were not on the crank there was no side to side movement that I could perceive. This was before the green thread lock was in place. I think the difference is SOOO small that it isn't going to affect it.

Perhaps you can explain what the guy from ARP means in this sentence then?

Our bolt (kit 203-6004) does not actually have a knurl. I still think it should be tried even though the locating diameter is .0015” too small. Differences in locating diameters are often “made-up” in the concentricity.
 
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I think that the other problem is that the gap between the bolt shank and the rod is being greatly exaggerated by the camera... I had it in super macro mode. It is barely perceivable to the human eye. I also for some reason on my connecting rods have a small step on the bottom of the bolt hole. I also know that the cap was VERY snug on the bolts when I assembled them but I don't have a picture of that. I just got off the phone again with my machine shop and this time I spoke with Walt who handles the bottom ends, before I talked to Paul who handles the heads as Walt was out. When I explained to him your concern, and I read your posts to him, he said he knows exactly what you are talking about. He said that he resized the big end and that as long as you don't have any play in the cap from side to side, which it didn't, everything is perfectly fine. He did say that was a very good catch by you though. :) I am inclined to trust these guys... been a in business on the family land for 70+ years and Walt was working for a NASCAR team for a few years in the early 80's as their chief mechanic.

Now excuse me while I go change my underwear as I did s*** myself for a second there.
 
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joeyg1973 said:
Our bolt (kit 203-6004) does not actually have a knurl. I still think it should be tried even though the locating diameter is .0015” too small. Differences in locating diameters are often “made-up” in the concentricity.
Click to expand...

that is refering to the press fit of the shank into the rod itself. Some bolts are knurled to make a tight press fit into the rod, others are machined for a few thousandths press fit. In this case, he is stating the machined diameter of the rod bolt is .0015 less than the OEM toyota 2F bolt, but due to machining inaccuracies in the rod bolt hole itself, it may press in fine due to irregularities in the bore shape of the drilled toyota hole.

Unfortunately that is another issue, which with some green lock tite is not a problem.

-Brett
 
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