Build Up "The Cucumber"

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

FJ40Jim said:
attachment.php

The pictured spacer is from F engine.

The 2F spacer would have been a better choice because :
It is open plenum.
There is no PCV tube in the front.
There is a heat insulator shield that covers up most of the headers near the TB.
Click to expand...


Interesting... That was what was on it when I got it... wait or was it... I think I might have swapped some thing around when I first got both 40s. Long story short I got 2 40s at the same time, 1 a 71, the other a 79 that was a rusted fiberglass mess. It didn't have the room for both so I had a week at a space where I hacked the 79 up for it's parts and tried to put it all into the 71. Epic Fail! I will have to go look at the F motor in storage and see if it isn't there. The heat shield was hacked to pieces already by the PO. I don't think that I need to worry too much about heat with these headers. They are ceramic coated inside and out which should take care of a lot of heat problems, at least that is what is advertised about ceramic header coatings. Think my time and money is better spent cutting this spacer open or just get one for a 2f. For that matter what about the adapter plate being 2 barrel and not open? Downey sure is sounding better and better.
 
joeyg1973 said:
I already bought the knock sensor I might as well use it.
Click to expand...

Don't be so defensive - was just suggesting you would kick yourself when you thought through the wasted spark.

I have a knock sensor to fit, did have it fitted but without boost it wasn't needed, easy to implement with MS so why not.
 
malcb said:
Don't be so defensive - was just suggesting you would kick yourself when you thought through the wasted spark.

I have a knock sensor to fit, did have it fitted but without boost it wasn't needed, easy to implement with MS so why not.
Click to expand...

Not being defensive, I just didn't get the joke at first.
 
FJ40Jim said:
I recommend getting a 2F heat shield.
Click to expand...

The ( and I know I am getting grumbles at this from some people ) aesthetics of that heat shield are horrible. If I have to have a heat shield, I will build something custom that is more visually appealing.
 
joeyg1973 said:
I never heard about wasted spark helping to spool a turbo. I can't really understand how a spark in an oxygen depleted exhaust stroke could help at all actually. In the case of the MS2 I can't really see how coil on plug or 1 coil per plug is any better than wasted spark. Not like you can do GDI or anything crazy like that with the MS2 as it is mainly geared towards TBI.
Click to expand...

I'm running 2 pair batch fired port injection and MS2 extra runs it fine. From what I understand it can run sequential port injection. You might be right about not spooling the turbo. When I first hear it it kinda made sense if it could fire anything left in the chamber but the lack of O2 should stop that.

I don't get the Coil on plug or one coil per plug reference regarding wasted spark.

Doing some reading on wasted spark the advantage is the coils cycle less so at high rpm the coils have more time to charge and produce a hotter spark. So running wasted spark on COP like I am actually doubles the cycle rate and I guess can lower the spark output at high rpm. O well.

I will say run wide band if you can. It's nice to watch Megatune adjust the VE fuel table on it's own.


Kevin
 
In post #73 in this thread I mostly answered Marshall's question about the MAP sensor location and said that I really didn't need to be concerned about it's location as there was some research done by fellow MS users and enthusiasts that show there was no or negligible loss.

In the thread https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/293410-review-tbiadapterplates-com-f-adapter.html post #12 Marshall asked the following.

...
Trollhole said:
You map sensor will also need to be either looped back to the back or run the map up in the front of the block. More wires. You need to have the MAP sensor line as short as you can get it.

All you Vac ports you need should be on the manifold or the TBI unit it'sself. You shouldn't need one in the spacer below.
Click to expand...
...

​
For completeness, here is a quote from the MAP section of this MS page. Wiring and Sensors


Don't worry about how long your MAP sensor vacuum hose is. Intuitively it seems that shorter should be better. However, a few people have done tests to see how bad the effect of a long hose was on vacuum signal propagation. With a ~100 foot (~30 meters) coil of rubber tubing in between the MegaSquirt® and the engine, the result was that no delay was apparent. This was with about a 10 millisecond resolution clock. The reason for this is that air has so little inertia that it moves very quickly in response to a vacuum (this is how we fill the cylinders, after all!).​
 
joeyg1973 said:
In post #73 in this thread I mostly answered Marshall's question about the MAP sensor location and said that I really didn't need to be concerned about it's location as there was some research done by fellow MS users and enthusiasts that show there was no or negligible loss.
Click to expand...

Research?

Experimentation is perhaps a more suitable term but I agree it doesn't seem to make much difference - if anything a longer connection line can help with slugging impulses from wacky cams etc, don't forget the reaction of a fuel injection system on a car engine is very slow electronic terms. Main benefit of the MS install is reduction in electrical noise.
 
Took this right out of the Gates reference for hoses. The scissors mean cut to fit. 1979 is the year.

Application.................................Molded or Strt., Vulco-Flex®

6-CYL. 258 ENG.
LAND CRUISER

Upper; Late.................................................. ✂20065 25473
Upper; Early................................................. ✂20450 25474
Lower - Pipe To Rad.; W/O A.C. ............... ✂20958
Lower - Pipe To Rad. ................................. 20887
By Pass ....................................................... 21222
Heater To Pipe-1......................................... 5/8” x 5”
Pipe-1 To Pipe-2; W/Aux. Heater ............... 18773
Pipe-2 To Eng.; W/Oil Cooler..................... 5/8” x 11”
Pipe-2 To Eng.; W/O Oil Cooler................. 5/8” x 20”
Heater To Valve .......................................... ✂28466
Valve To Eng............................................... ✂28467
Eng. To Pipe-3 ............................................ 1/2” x 11”
Pipe To Aux. Heater Pipe-1........................ ✂28461
Aux. Heater Pipe-2 To Pipe........................ 1/2” x 5”
 
joeyg1973 said:
I am going to use the Innovate WBO2. I can't wait to see the Megatune do the auto adjust. Should be a cake walk once I get it started. :cool:
Click to expand...


I'm using the Innovate LC1. We had a problem with the sensor giving MegaTune huge spikes in the Air Fuel ratio so Megatune was freakin out. We moved the 12 volt source for the wideband from the fuel pump relay that Mega squirt recomended to it's own feed and the problem went away.

Here's a site that was helpful for getting auto tune to work.
Auto Tune Link


Kevin
 
Toyo FJ40 said:
I'm using the Innovate LC1. We had a problem with the sensor giving MegaTune huge spikes in the Air Fuel ratio so Megatune was freakin out. We moved the 12 volt source for the wideband from the fuel pump relay that Mega squirt recomended to it's own feed and the problem went away.

Here's a site that was helpful for getting auto tune to work.
Auto Tune Link


Kevin
Click to expand...

I am using the LC1 too. That is good to know about where to get the power feed from for the WBO2 because on Innovate's site they recommend connection to the fuel pump relay. I was only going split off the feed for the FP relay on the relay board as a second option. Currently I am planning on connecting it to the FIdle as that is unused on mine.

I have to go look for sure, but if memory serves me correctly, the MS2extra code eliminates the auto tune in the code to make way for other features. You have to use the auto tune in MegaTune and then burn it in. That is going to be a very useful link if that code is still in the extra bin.
 
I have got good news and bad news.

The good news: I think I have found a 67 Pontiac GTO fixer upper for sale that has very solid body!

The bad news: I think I have found a 67 Pontiac GTO fixer upper for sale that has very solid body!

Decisions Decisions.
 
Almost done with the wiring for MS2 stuff. Only took me about 2 hours and I used Posi-Lock twist on butt connectors for the stuff that isn't permanent for now. I will take some pictures with detailed explanation as to what wire goes to what connector because as it stands now, you need to root around in several websites and PDF files to figure it all out. This should either come tonight or tomorrow. I expect to do the break in run of the engine next week and I will put a video up of it.
 
So I goofed in getting my fuel line and hose clamps...

I got 5/16" thinking I could make it work with the 3/8" stuff... ain't gonna happen...

So I had to order this from Rock

GATES 27088 3/8 Fuel Hose 10'
IDEAL 52F16 3/8 Hose Clamps x 10
 
Last edited:
There is so much little s*** that needs to be done it is driving me nuts. Gotta keep reminding myself that you eat an elephant one bite at a time.
 
OK here is a list of what I need to do yet.


  1. Find the spacer that goes between the top of the TBI and the bottom of the plastic plenum I got from a 4.9 TBI Caddy.
  2. Tap the plastic plenum for 1/2 NPT to get the air temp sensor in place. There are a couple of places on the piece that look like they were designed for this purpose.
  3. Wire above up.
  4. Find a crush washer for one of the smaller plug bolts for the oil filter mounting flange.
  5. Put on balancer and pulley.
  6. Modify alternator bracket for the CS 144.
  7. Find appropriate belt to fit.
  8. Finish off plumbing for the cooling system.
  9. Finish off plumbing for the fuel system.
  10. Tap block for knock sensor.
  11. Wire up the rest of the knock sensor.
  12. Bolt in starter.
  13. Wire up LC-1 WBO2 sensor.
  14. Hook up the PCV hose to the plastic plenum.
  15. Create a mounting bracket for the EDIS 6 pack.
  16. Wire up the battery, starter, on/off/starter switch.
  17. Wire power to MS2 Extra.
  18. Fire it up!
  19. Miller time.
  20. Pass out from exhaustion and the pain from the bursitis in my right shoulder.

Got a question... the flywheel bolts. I didn't have any lock washers in the bag that I put them in, but that was so long ago that doesn't mean I didn't loose them. Pretty sure there are not any, but I just want to check. Pretty sure I can get away with some red lock tight and be done with it though.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom