Buffalo Ny fj45lv (2 Viewers)

[gmayer]

Ran into a couple holdups. Built rotisserie from 2000 lb harbor freight engine stands. Had to rebuild hoist cylinder on engine hoist. Relocated the rear shackle hangers back to the stock location and put 1000 lbs on the chassis. I just don't know about these Alcans... Should I weld the hangers in there? But some anti inversion shackles till they break in? I do have the shallower oil pan. The height was for ac compressor clearance. Will revist once steering is in and radiator and fan. I am told the accessories on a vette ls is much easier

 

[gmayer]

This Saginaw conversion is not a 5 minute job. Getting there...

 

[JohnnyC]

A lot of people rave about the alcan springs... once broke in i would think the shackle angle would be acceptable ... Never heard complaints about that with their springs

Build looks GREAT!

 

[gmayer]

Thanks Johnny, I have those rear shackle brackets just held by some loose bolts, should I move them up a half inch before I weld them again?

 

[gmayer]

 

[gmayer]

Lower profile pan for the ls motor

 

[JohnnyC]

I don't know about moving them ... You may want to ask around to those who have dealt with alcan ... Maybe Kurt or Poser might have good insight into if you should move the hangers

a tub and crap inside of it adds up to a lot more than water bottles

 

[gmayer]

Excellent advice in the advanced adapters engine mount kit. Check steering, rad fan, and hood. I ended up going back further. 13.5 drivers side off shock tower to center of mount about 1.5 inch up off frame. Pass is 14.5 back and up about 3" off frame for ac comp. being up off the frame will be helpful for hooking up an exhaust. I am at about 5 degrees angle. Need to hack some more floor.
I was really trying to avoid cutting the floor, but couldn't help it.

 

[White Stripe]

Wait until you have the body on before your mess with the shackle mount. Fine tune it with the body on. Also, in regard to your saginaw box, typically its mounted farther forward so that the ports are before the cross member. Where you have that box now, I don't know how you will get the lines to clear the grill unless you cut the grill to clear the lines which would be kinda sad to have to do and may look funny.

 

[gmayer]

Thanks for the reply, a lot of learning going on here. I will probably add a 1" body mount for clearance on the decorative engine cover, ps steering lines and t case shifter clearance. This will minimize some of the doghouse fabrication. I wish someone lived near me that had done this before. I can see how much you would learn for the second one. I also wish I had gone with a centered rear diff. Then I could have used the Chevy t-case and had electronic t case- no levers to mess with thru the floor. Would have been tough enough for what I am doing. Progress is slow while raising 4 kids and trying to sleep once in a while.

 

[gmayer]

 

[gofast]

great build - sub scibed

 

[gmayer]

 

[gmayer]

This is the rear river side cargo area floor. First time trying to do something this complex. Just made the sandbag, seems to work fine.

 

[gmayer]

Tough to get in there to grind

 

[scrapdaddy]

Good Job!

 

[gmayer]

These are some pictures of the rear body mount/ tailgate mount support area. The po cut so much off I had to refer to mud photos to recreate this much. I am assuming I need 2" piece for the outside / exterior.. Anyone with a photo and a tape please post. Thanks. I am getting the hang of my break.

 

[cult45]

So much dedication! I feel another buckroseau coming on. Nice work!

 

[gmayer]

Cult- thanks, too much of a compliment. I want to make sure everything is fixed right. I don't have the penchant for body sanding that matt had. I will keep going. Am at least a year out of being done. I just want to share what I am doing, hoping to inspire others. Mud has helped me keep going. Just want to share my content.. Thanks !!!

 

[gmayer]

Painfull. Wish paul pilgrim had actually shipped those rear sill pieces . There is a lot that goes into this