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- #61
I burned in that square tubing, still need to finish paint it. Pulled the top off this afternoon. I'm pretty sure it hasn't been off in 20 years. Excited about summer!
Build Bringing back my 74 FJ40
- Thread starter DustyFJ
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- #63
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- #64
Replaced the clutch master and slave cylinders last week to get rid of a pesky leak (more like steady drip)
The past month or so I've had problems with the truck bogging down on hard acceleration. If I floor it, the truck will bog and if I don't let up it will die. I've got to kinda feather it to get it to go. The truck idles smooth and will accept slow acceleration nicely. Does this sound like a vacuum leak??? Problem with the carb?
The past month or so I've had problems with the truck bogging down on hard acceleration. If I floor it, the truck will bog and if I don't let up it will die. I've got to kinda feather it to get it to go. The truck idles smooth and will accept slow acceleration nicely. Does this sound like a vacuum leak??? Problem with the carb?
It sounds like a fuel delivery issue. Do you know if the carb was rebuilt? (I didn't read your whole thread to see if you mentioned rebuilding the carb)
I would start with fuel feed, i.e. clogged filter or junk in the line. Pop the feed line off the filter (between tank and filter), remove the tank filler cap, then blow a few bursts of compressed air from the line into the tank to clear and junk.
You can also do the same thing from the carb , but you want to pull the feed line off the pump before doing it.
Also check the fuel pump, though, i'm not sure of the fuel pump symptoms... I tend to think it works or it doesn't.
If it still bogs down after doing these steps, then youve narrowed it down to the carb. It could be a clogged intake screen, clogged jets, or a bad power valve.
I would start with fuel feed, i.e. clogged filter or junk in the line. Pop the feed line off the filter (between tank and filter), remove the tank filler cap, then blow a few bursts of compressed air from the line into the tank to clear and junk.
You can also do the same thing from the carb , but you want to pull the feed line off the pump before doing it.
Also check the fuel pump, though, i'm not sure of the fuel pump symptoms... I tend to think it works or it doesn't.
If it still bogs down after doing these steps, then youve narrowed it down to the carb. It could be a clogged intake screen, clogged jets, or a bad power valve.
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- #66
I tried to rebuild the existing carb but had leaking issues and for the sake of time bought a trolhole carb, so its "new" less than a year old. The gas tank was drained, new fuel filter.
I know when I had the carb off cranking the engine by hand was enough for the fuel pump to pump fuel all over the place.
I know when I had the carb off cranking the engine by hand was enough for the fuel pump to pump fuel all over the place.
Given that it is a Trollhole carb, I would suspect some junk in the fuel passages or jets in the carb. I tried to rebuild a TH carb and it would not idle correctly and would not meter fuel correctly, it just poured out of the venturi. I have rebuilt several OEM carbs with good success.
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- #68
TRYING to make my first club meeting, going over my safety checks (farthest I've driven it from home) and no headlights.... grrr They used to work, then worked sporadically now nothing. Quickly pulled apart headlight switch and cleaned still nothing. Voltage on both sides of the fuse, nothing at the headlights themselves. No voltage at the high beam switch in the column in either position. I found no continuity from the back of the headlight housing to the - terminal on the battery. When I originally folded it down all of the bolts were seized and broke. only three loose bolts kept it snugged into place. I think I was just missing earth, threw some 1/4-20's through the empty holes now one headlight is bright and one is dim. Something may still be going on because I was only reading 9.72v at the bright light (with the truck not running) I'll have to investigate it further later, seems safe enough to go down the road??? The dim headlight has two broken solder connections on the back of it that are kinda snapped into place. Jiggiling those doesn't seem to make it brighter. Maybe my ground is still no good. Have to get out the door!
You don't have to bring the Cruiser, though we all like to see them at meetings.
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- #70
Truck has been running rough and felt like progressively worse. Fixed a couple errors on the rebut carb at a club tech day and put it on. The truck runs betterish maybe RPMs too high, can't really adjust... found this in the process...cracked intake manifold. Why did it crack?? It was milled with the exhaust manifold a year ago. Maybe the engine is running too hot??? bad water pump?? I need to find another one now.
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- #71
A local machine shop is welding the intake. Any thoughts on why it cracked? Maybe running too hot??
Was the exhaust riser shield in between the two manifolds? cracked intake is a common problem if it is missing.
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- #73
Here is a pic of the shield and a pic showing the flap does activate with heat
I'm at a loss, looks like everything is there, and the flap moves....WTF
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- #75
I'm supposed to buy some used 31x10.50s this weekend. Score! I got the manifold back together and fixed a vacuum leak at the base of the carb. Looking forward to productive wrenching time at some point this weekend.
Intake manifold crack is a common problem... Doesn't mater if you have heat riser ... Don't ... Run header ... They still crack
Maybe we can get a recall
Maybe we can get a recall
meh, I run a header with a repaired intake manifold and it runs great.
You might be running a bit lean because of that free flowing air filter. Happens all the time on motorcycles, when people ditch stock air boxes for pods, I'm fairly sure it will happen to car engines too. Do your plugs show the proper color? The stock air intake is probably quite a bit more restrictive, in effect enriching the mix.
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- #79
New to me mud terrains and rims. No more scary dry rotten tires
Very nice.