Builds Bringing back my 74 FJ40 (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter DustyFJ
- Start date
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Did you drop mystery oil or some deep creep in the cylinders before you tried to turn it over? Pull all the plugs as was stated previously and have a look. Check that the dizzy is secure... it could be walking up the cam gear. You have the valve cover off so check that the lifters move. Drain the oil and check for metal flakes/chunks.
Is the the rear frame rotted out where it is usually boxed? I can't quite tell in the picture.
Looks like a fun project.
BlueCruiser84
SILVER Star
Nice! I was the first one to call the guy before he put a price on craigslist. After he put up the price I realized it was out of my league (already owning two other toys).
I am curious what it is going to take to get the motor going. From what the guy told me it won't take much, but you never know what actually happened before it seized. Good luck and keep us updated!! The rust doesn't look as bad as he made it seem over the phone.
I am curious what it is going to take to get the motor going. From what the guy told me it won't take much, but you never know what actually happened before it seized. Good luck and keep us updated!! The rust doesn't look as bad as he made it seem over the phone.
Ahh. I see. It is the driver side, fwd of the rear wheel.
Good luck with the resto.
Good luck with the resto.
DustyFJ
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #28
right you are, now I can turn the crank freely, I turned it several times, untill the fuel pump pumped fuel out of a gap in the fuel lines. Now I have to figure out what is supposed to go there
I have had had some rear glass shocks from my suburban sitting in the garage for 5+ years. Today I cut them down slightly and put them inside the 40 rear hatch spring housings like I saw in the FAQ
I also found evidence of more wild life, wasps nest
looks like there was a inline fuel filter pre carb.
Looks good! Mine sat for 12 yrs under a pine tree, after some tinkering started and has done 3 road trips since!!
looking good man, looks like its starting to come along!!!!
DustyFJ
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #34
Thanks guys, coming along veeeerrrry slowly. I need to get some carb dip this weekend and put this carb back together.
There were only a couple mystery parts that kind of fell out during disassembly I need to go back over pin heads you tube videos and see if I can figure out where they go.
There were only a couple mystery parts that kind of fell out during disassembly I need to go back over pin heads you tube videos and see if I can figure out where they go.
DustyFJ
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #35
So it still doesnt run.
New gas
Carb rebuilt(correctly I think, I was careful)
New plugs/wires
New igition coil
Points cleaned up(after the set from auto zone didn't fit)
Problem 1
I have spark but maybe not at the right time. I remember the existing plug wires were in the correct firing order but were not matched up to the numbers on the distributor cap. When I put on the new wires I just matched them to the distributor.
When I line up the tick in the timing window(see pic) the rotor is just passing #5 spark plug should it be in contact with #1 plug???
Problem 2
After cranking the motor over and over trying to figure out what is going on I pulled a plug and it does not smell like gas. There is gas in the inspection window on the carb and I really think I put it back together correctly.
When I put the battery leads on the battery there is a distinct click from the carb is this normal or does this have something to do with that fuel shut off solenoid I keep seeing mentioned on here.
I'd like to have this thing road worth in time to go to cruisin ocean city with a friend of mine in May. Lots of ground to cover between now and then, I'm feeling pessimistic.
New gas
Carb rebuilt(correctly I think, I was careful)
New plugs/wires
New igition coil
Points cleaned up(after the set from auto zone didn't fit)
Problem 1
I have spark but maybe not at the right time. I remember the existing plug wires were in the correct firing order but were not matched up to the numbers on the distributor cap. When I put on the new wires I just matched them to the distributor.
When I line up the tick in the timing window(see pic) the rotor is just passing #5 spark plug should it be in contact with #1 plug???
Problem 2
After cranking the motor over and over trying to figure out what is going on I pulled a plug and it does not smell like gas. There is gas in the inspection window on the carb and I really think I put it back together correctly.
When I put the battery leads on the battery there is a distinct click from the carb is this normal or does this have something to do with that fuel shut off solenoid I keep seeing mentioned on here.
I'd like to have this thing road worth in time to go to cruisin ocean city with a friend of mine in May. Lots of ground to cover between now and then, I'm feeling pessimistic.
This might help:
FIRING ORDER 1-5-3-6-2-4 (#1 cylinder is closest to front)
DISTRIBUTOR ROTATES CLOCKWISE
At TDC, the rotor should be roughly pointing at #1 spark plug wire. I may be wrong, but I think the mark you are looking at (off the crank shaft) will be close to TDC but also off TDC by 180* because the crank will spin 2x faster than the cam / distributor.
FIRING ORDER 1-5-3-6-2-4 (#1 cylinder is closest to front)
DISTRIBUTOR ROTATES CLOCKWISE
At TDC, the rotor should be roughly pointing at #1 spark plug wire. I may be wrong, but I think the mark you are looking at (off the crank shaft) will be close to TDC but also off TDC by 180* because the crank will spin 2x faster than the cam / distributor.
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Someone may have stabbed the distributor off a tooth or two, so maybe that is why the wires were installed differently than they should have been. If you try messing with the distributor understand that it drives the oil pump, so if it is not seated all the way then you will have no oil pressure!
To clarify what CreeperSleeper said above, at TDC the rotor should be pointing at the #1 spark plug wire contact, which will be in the general direction of cylinder #4 on the block (in other words towards the driver's seat).
It sounds like a spark timing problem to me. Do you have a timing light?
The click is what you want to hear from your carb idle circuit solenoid.
To clarify what CreeperSleeper said above, at TDC the rotor should be pointing at the #1 spark plug wire contact, which will be in the general direction of cylinder #4 on the block (in other words towards the driver's seat).
It sounds like a spark timing problem to me. Do you have a timing light?
The click is what you want to hear from your carb idle circuit solenoid.
Thanks for the clarification. I will edit my post!
DustyFJ
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #39
okay, I see what you mean by off by 180, I rotated the crank 180 now the rotor is pointing ever so slightly past plug wire #1
Slightly warmer weather here I tried to start it today, canked it several times over a few minutes, Finnaly got a big pow and smoke, exciting but it still wont run. After cranking a few times I realized fuel was leaking from the intake manifold under the truck.
I pulled a plug and it still doesnt smell like fuel.
I'm dealing with lots of family stuff and havent had the time to work on the truck. Considering taking it to iron pig for help.
BlueCruiser84
SILVER Star
Take the air cleaner off the carb and turn it over. Can you see fuel? Pump the accelerator pedal - you should get a mist in the carb. Is the float level adjusted correctly?
Pour a bit of gas down the carb and see if it will fire that way. You could try some starter fluid, though I usually try to avoid that stuff.
Fuel, spark, air. Those are what the motor needs to run. Just start ticking them off your list.
Have you done a compression test? if the pistons were seized in the cylinders the rings may be boogered - though I don't know if that would keep the motor from running.
Pour a bit of gas down the carb and see if it will fire that way. You could try some starter fluid, though I usually try to avoid that stuff.
Fuel, spark, air. Those are what the motor needs to run. Just start ticking them off your list.
Have you done a compression test? if the pistons were seized in the cylinders the rings may be boogered - though I don't know if that would keep the motor from running.
