SOLD Boise, ID 1991 HDJ81 VX Limited 76.5k OG miles & 3x locked

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Also cleaned it up around the panhard mount and steering box to check for cracks. We see none.

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Cheers
 
Just making sure we are all good before painting.

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I was wrong about the rattle can under the Cruiser. It is actually a tar type rust proofing. It is relatively hard and not sticky. Here is the frame at the vin cleaned of it before some paint.

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All taped off.

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Self etching primer on the bare metal.

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Black top coat.

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Nice to have that all done!

Cheers
 
Another picture because I am happy with it. We busted some arse the last few days to get this part of the repairs done.

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I will be coating it all with this before it is all said and done, to match what is already on the underside of the Cruiser.

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Cheers
 
Bumping the thread. We are in the middle of getting the new axle under it. Doing some fab to get the geometry a bit better than stock and also running Delta 3” long radius arms. More to come on this as we get it finished.

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Cheers
 
Our axle housing just about done. Need to notch it for the elocker, weld on a couple of brake line tabs, prep and paint. We adjusted caster, pinion angle and coil perches by doing the fab on top of moving the panhard mount.

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Getting our parts organized for assembly.

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All this for both sides is getting paint tomorrow.

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Cheers
 
Just making sure we are all good before painting.

View attachment 3372816

I was wrong about the rattle can under the Cruiser. It is actually a tar type rust proofing. It is relatively hard and not sticky. Here is the frame at the vin cleaned of it before some paint.

View attachment 3372817

All taped off.

View attachment 3372818

Self etching primer on the bare metal.

View attachment 3372820

Black top coat.

View attachment 3372821


Nice to have that all done!

Cheers
Great idea on the foil to protect other surfaces during weld and paint. Saves a ton of time masking the typical way.
 
I did a quick check end of day for caster and pinion angle with weight on it since we laid it out at ride height vs with weight on it.

Solid 4* (or more) of caster and 5* on the pinion. Radius arms are nice and flat, coils are nice and straight with no bows or wonkiness. Shock bushings are not binding at ride height. The panhard slide right in with no bind.

This was the point of cutting all the brackets off the axle housing and setting it up from scratch. Went with the Delta arms simply because it was not possible to get it where we wanted (in particular for caster) without the tie rod hitting the stock radius arms. We laid it out and tired but could not get much better than 2-2.5* of caster with stock arms and stock bushings. We were going to do a cut & turn but it was not needed to get it where we wanted and better than stock. I think geometry wise it is even better than just bolting in the radius arms due to the reason I pointed out above. Not sure what the Delta 3L arms are supposed to give for caster with roughly 3.5" of lift but I am real happy with 4+*. Again we are using the Delta arms to clear the tie rod to the arms since they have more clearance than a stock arm. I don't think they are generally flat though when bolted in, my Blackhawks certainly are not, the bow down at the bottom bend reducing ground clearance. It's been since 2018 since I have bolted in Delta arms so I don't recall all the details. I will post lot's of pics as we finish it up and get wheels back on it so you can see it is sitting all just real nice geometry wise.

80's are so wonky on the front axle and suspension. The tcase output is 2* roughly pointed up. The front diff pinion is pointed up roughly 7.5*. 5.5+* of difference in the tcase and pinion (that is stock) should cause problems but it doesn't. This Cruiser the front drive shaft stock was in phase, many other FZJ's we work on it is out of phase including mine. There is roughly 9.5* difference between caster and pinion angle. Meaning if you set the pinion at 0* you have 9.5-10* of caster. If you set it at 2* to match the tcase you have stupid 7+* of caster. You can not get or match the pinion angle on an 80 to the tcase and have the tie rod clear the radius arms, even with aftermarket arms which offer more clearance. I have known all this for some time since I did a cross over steering conversion on my old v8 80 & a c&t or when my buddy did a c&t to only gain 2-3*. It is just wonky how Toyota set it up but it works and it clears and that is all that matters. Like I say we improved upon that a little bit by doing the fab to the front axle/suspension and it is setup for this height sweet.

Cheers
 
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Finished the knuckle and hub job over the weekend. I put new OEM studs in the hubs topped off with new nuts & washers. New hardware on the wheel bearings too.

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The Cruiser should be back to running and driving this week.

Cheers
 
First start in 2.5yrs.





Only took a dozen pumps on the fuel primer and it kicked off on the second revolution of the starter! Friggn’ puuuuuuurrrrrrrsssss! 😎🤙

Cheers
 
Rear Delta panhard bracket, SLEE ss brake line too.

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Rear sway bar got an extension, all new bushings and hardware.

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Front end

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Rear diff and tcase gear oil was like new so didn’t change them. Front axle filled, engine oil changed with OEM filter, drivelines greased and more.

Cheers
 
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