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- #121
These are the bolts for holding the bed on at the frame towers. There are only two like that, the rest you can get to the top and hold those with wrench or socket.
Builds BluezClues Build '79 RN37 Pickup (2 Viewers)
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Look normal to me. That's what's on my 88. You drop them down through and that keeps them from turning. You don't need another wrench on top.
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- #123
Should I run them? I guess they just need to hold long enough to tighten them up one more time.
I can't see what's wrong with them. Are the threads good?
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- #125
Threads are fine. It's just the mass that was lost to rust. The pitting in the pictures looks less than in person as some was filled up with the epoxy paint I used on them after eating all the rust off.
I think mine has a thin rubber square between the bed and frame. Then a rubber biscuit type mount below the frame "stand" with a large washer and the nut. Just drop that bed bolt through
Oh ok. I couldn't see the corrosion. I guess you have to decide if they will hold.
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- #128
Yep I have those as well I will see if the heads stay on when I put it on. If it holds the I guess it always will
If you can get a wrench up there, a regular bolt should work. If you have a welder, you can tack something on similar to the original to prevent it from rotating if you don't have a way to hold the top.
Maybe cut off the original and drill it out so you can tack it on a new bolt?
Maybe cut off the original and drill it out so you can tack it on a new bolt?
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- #130
Yeah I have a welder. I suppose I could even add a washer to the top to reinforce the top and the rest might be strong enough to keep it from spinning.
You've figured out a way on everything else so I have no doubt you'll come up with something.
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- #132
Some how I cannot find the part that goes in the middle of the head called the cylinder head side cover which is for the coolant routing. I would prefer to not use a block off plate so the head is cooled evenly. Agitating that I an so unorganized.
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I've got one in my parts box from my donor engine you can have if you can't find yours. Just cover shipping.
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- #134
Thanks man. I am doing some serious cleaning... I might take you up on it!
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- #135
What is the saying? "Find what you no longer seak"? Looking in a parts tote that I looked in many times, for the hood support rod retaining clip, I found it!
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- #136
So as you can see from the other pictures I am putting in hoses for power stearing and coolant/heater so working on the coolant flow... I found some graphics indicating coolant flow on 20r/22r engines and some of the information is conflicting. the coolant paths from the back of the timing cover on each side of the block seem to go different directions depending on the graphic you find. This one from yotatech forums is the one that seems reference the direction I see most people indicate, so I am hoping that is correct.
If this is correct the driver's side will be my return from the heater circuit (heater control valve/heater core). I had two styles of pipes available for the coolant pipe that sandwiches between the block and motormount shaped like a fat J. One has a 5/8in "ish" little return hose for heater return but the one I have is in pretty poor condition where the other one i have is perfect and appears to be stainless steel. but has no such tap in to it for he heater. I am ok with that as I think the tube running under the exhaust manifold and kicking out is a lot cleaner and makes the length of soft hose shorter overall.
Would love to have other opinions to consider. I really didn't realize how much more difficult it is to put something together you didn't disassemble, but I am slowly working through each thing.
If this is correct the driver's side will be my return from the heater circuit (heater control valve/heater core). I had two styles of pipes available for the coolant pipe that sandwiches between the block and motormount shaped like a fat J. One has a 5/8in "ish" little return hose for heater return but the one I have is in pretty poor condition where the other one i have is perfect and appears to be stainless steel. but has no such tap in to it for he heater. I am ok with that as I think the tube running under the exhaust manifold and kicking out is a lot cleaner and makes the length of soft hose shorter overall.
Would love to have other opinions to consider. I really didn't realize how much more difficult it is to put something together you didn't disassemble, but I am slowly working through each thing.
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- #137
Snails move faster than I do. Intake, thermostat and carb mounted. Couldn't find a nice coolant and washer bottle for the pickup so made some mounts to use one from an fj40.... we will see how this works.....looks kinda funny.
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- #138
Working on some vacuum lines and mostly going the Canadian 4wd spec for vacuum, however does the small vacuum line from the bottom of the intake filter canister go to where I've indicated the Red vacuum line (that shouldn't go to the carb in this picture i don't think) goes down to the intake junction under the carb in the intake? I am pretty sure the larger barb on that same intake junction(Blue circle) is where the larger hole from the filter goes.
I am mostly asking as that short small vacuum hose seems pretty short so i think i am missing something some place.
Guess I am figuring it out.
I could be wrong on this but here are the labels. if it turns out I am right on this, then hopefully it is helpful to others.
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- Thread starter
- #139
Had to do some easy work I've been putting off because I don't love body work. Made a vise to reshape the end of the hood on the right side. Once that was done I primed a layer in black over the tan epoxy primer and the light filler work then two layers of filler primer. Started to to drizzle so only got to do some sanding witb flat blocks and will have to paint and clear some other day.
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- #140
Working on the exhaust. I have a cat I will eventually install but not planning to clog it up on the breakin period.
