Builds BluezClues Build '79 RN37 Pickup (1 Viewer)

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Connections made. Need to disconnect, reroute and wrap up. I am not sure I will keep it this way though, as I am using the fuel cutoff solenoid as the relay trigger, which turns on the little 4 blade fuse box on the passenger fender. Three of those are used with one powering the actual fuel cutoff solenoid on the carb, one the power the cold start coil on the carb and then the other leverages the former Amp meter leads to provide voltmeter functionality since i replaced the amp meter with a volt meter. That last configuration may get separated as I won't get volt meter functionality unless the key is in ignition position in place of ACC.

As you can see I used an 80 series land cruiser fusable link setup and junction box off the positive terminal, and the negative terminal goes directly to the engine mount with a the normal bridge to the frame and body. I added another ground spot just for convenience over to the ID plate where the radio condenser is grounded.

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I am still struggling with the heater hose portion however I think I am going to just modify a later 4runner heater valve bracket to work.

The Exhaust is connected all the way back to the muffler and a bypass pipe to get around the rear shock over the axle, I will worry about extending the tail pipe later on.

I have added a door switch to the passenger side which i need to tie in to the dome circuit so that either door will turn the light on. Other than that I think I am pretty much done with electrical for the moment. I am going to need to get a battery soon and test with a fire extinguisher just to make sure all is good. I replaced a lot of burned and melted wire out of this harness so hopefully she is good to go now.
 
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I am so slow and hope no one has been holding their breath. Connected up the rest of the heater hoses. Have some ignition wires to fix from the coil but put a battery in and with most fuses pulled I got lights on the dash and headlights... didn't let any smoke out so pretty happy about that. Got some 91 4d integra seats that will work for now.

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Well. Got Ole pickup out of the garage turned around so the exhaust is now facing out. Found the head gasket is not installed correctly over the timing cover... but hey she runs....horrible on only two cylinders. Verified spark on all 4 and then lost all spark. Oh well I'll figure it out another evening.

Fuelpump doesn't work either and even worse the oil pressure Guage is full pegged making me think it isn't working right.

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Well the massive vacuum leak right on the manifold because I forgot to plug a hole was the reason for only two cylinders firing. Got that fixed...got spark back too and yet it still runs like ass. Maybe worse than before.

Being that I lost spark for a while I wonder if the issue is in the ignition causing it to not fire consistently.

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So with the 85 ignition stuff installed I put some heat in the engine and started working to adjust the valves while she was warm. First set then rotate 360 degrees and found the oil pump splined sleeve is cracked. The attentive observer will see the head gasket is pushed in also (causing a massive oil leak) as well as the middle crank key is mushroomed which is likely why the sleeve got cracked right in the key slot. Also one might assume that during the rebuild not every thing was torn down like it should be and cleaned...
I should have done the rebuild myself I guess if I wanted it done well.

Sucked to take the truck back apart but at least everything is clean and no broken bolts.

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Sometimes you just have to make your own gaskets and when they get complex I usually make a mess of them. So bring in the lasers and be done with it.



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I saw a few Youtube videos where guys were using those Cricut decal machines to make gaskets. My wife has one of those. :hmm:

IDK, that might be worse than using the turkey baster to drain my master cylinder. :nailbiting:
 
I haven't used a cricut machine but I hear they are handy for making vinyl decals that are no longer available. As far as the turkey baster.... once you order syringes in bulk with very long blunted needles... i have some for putting grease/oil/RTV etc in very hard to reach places, but also big ones for removing fluid too. very cheap when you get them on sale. I got the laser to burn out an etch of a classic blueprint... laser was on sale and only 3x the price it would have cost me to pay a company to do it. However I've made challenge coins, and plaques for a lot of people so I suppose it has paid for itself at this point.
 
Welp... didn't enjoy fixing the headgasket leak out the front or having to replace the cracked sleeve but she is back together and I went ahead and changed the oil since I know the engine wasn't very clean from whatever form of a rebuild it had. Good bit of carbon was in the oil filter and grease but no metal shavings. I'll be changing the oil every couple of hours of run time for a while until nothing shows up in that oil filter anymore.

Got the overflow tank in permanently and the washer motor plumbed and wired. Shoots right over the cab so going to have to adjust that. Also turns out my rehab of the wiper motor was a success as that started running when I was testing the new keys I cut for the truck. Didn't realize I had the fuses in for the wipers yet.

Tested the clutch as well as first and reverse with the hubs locked... she moves.



Going to have to adjust the carb and timing still but it was nice that it moved for the first time without me pushing it. Lots of work going through the axles, transmission all the wiring harness etc to finally be able to pull it out of the garage to work on it more later.

Of course I should probably start on the doors soon.

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Horn. Backup lights brake lights. Marker lights and running lights all seem to work. Got the carpet in

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Doors now have mirrors. Started installing the tracks for the runners. Running the door locks in the ultrasonic cleaner. Door latches are in and painted black.

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Does anyone know if there is supposed to be something between the handle and the body like a gasket?


Sprayway fixes everything..

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Lower left is going in for now and the lower right is what I am going to use to build a mold for putting new foam rubber on the top one which will eventually be the fully restored one. If it works out well then j will have a way of pouring new foam rubber for these style steering wheels as they are all nearly completely trashed at this point.

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Lower left is going in for now and the lower right is what I am going to use to build a mold for putting new foam rubber on the top one which will eventually be the fully restored one. If it works out well then j will have a way of pouring new foam rubber for these style steering wheels as they are all nearly completely trashed at this point.

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im planning on sending mine for a leather wrap/resto
 

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