BLUE PIG

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I had a 3fe alt winding shag out on me... it put out 13.2 volts- enough for the idjits at oreillys say good. Their chart says 13.2is passing. Mr Toyota said 13.4 at 10+ amps. Oreillys has a low rating so they don’t have to warranty their sheit. The old guy in the old airplane hanger shop down to the ghetto said that my “good” unit was giving 13.2 volts at under 2 amps. Just enough to run a battery into the ground on a daily drive... my point is, you may have a bad unit. It needs to make more amps than are being drawn to get the voltage up to the happy place. Sorry and hth
 
have you charged the batteries out of the rig?
 
also, get an ohm meter, disconnect the hot leg from the battery, and check the main output positive leg to chassis ground. this will tell you if you have a gaping short to ground drawing your alternators full capacity and dragging the volts down...If I had the resources, I would come over and give you a hand...have you got an old-airplane-hanger-down-to-the-ghetto-guy you can take your alternators to to have them checked by a real professional? I spent a lot of time mucking about on bunk alternators myself...
 
bobm said:
Not good with meters. Blew up last 1.
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This is easy enough to help walk you through if you’re willing.

LAMBCRUSHER said:
.If I had the resources, I would come over and give you a hand
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This is what makes this one of the few web forums I’ll post on!

bobm said:
It was doing it with old 1 too
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Bob,

This sound like your charging and starting issues could be interconnected and reasonably easy to troubleshoot but at the end of the day something more accurate than the volt gauge on your dash is going to have to be used, the 7 Function Digital Multimeter Harbor freight sells for $6.00 would work well for this and I’m reasonably confident we could help you not blow up more than about two or three before we found your charging issues.
 
Will get 1 this week. Thanks guys. No airplane hangar. Just land on lake.
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Looks like a great spot to be “ stranded “ Bob!
 
bobm said:
1 other thing. When I pull the headlight switch amps drop and radio cuts out and comes back on. Fuse panel is right under headlight switch ?hmmmm
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If I had to bet I would guess your alternator output is low or nonexistent but I’ll hold off on the guessing until we get a bit more info.
 
Is the amp drop existent only with the headlight switch on? I know you mentioned it started after a big bump so I wonder about a wire getting pinched and causing a hard ground. I'd say the radio cut out is just because when you're asking for more amps on an already taxed charging system the radio loses just enough amps for a second below what is needed so it cuts off. I'd still check the fuse panel for a loose fuse or really corroded terminals.
 
And sand your ground terminals-all of em.
 
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