Block surface dots

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

flintknapper said:
No....its actually for use on the pins, spades, connectors themselves. Some folks try to use it as a moisture proofing agent, but most Toyota connectors are already weather rated. The idea is to get the grease on the contacting surfaces to prevent corrosion. Its OK if some of it squishes out around the perimeter of the fittings....but its simply waste IMO.
Click to expand...

Put it in the terminals holes and then move back and forth a lot? Scared of messing up like you describe. I don’t know how tight these are.

thanks for the help, I appreciate it.

or forget about it :)
 
David Rodgers said:
Put it in the terminals holes and then move back and forth a lot? Scared of messing up like you describe. I don’t know how tight these are.

thanks for the help, I appreciate it.

or forget about it :)
Click to expand...

I generally swipe some across the female fitting and let the male fitting displace the excess as it makes contact and seats. If you have any amount of contact at all....you don't have anything to worry about.

IF you experience an issue (unlikely) you can always spray it out with electrical cleaner.
 
Put in new transmission coolant lines. Gates from o’reilly’s. I pulled the protective spiral off of each and wrapped the new lines with it. I used the original hose clamps (cleaned them up).

7F954542-E4E5-4F83-AD47-4785A964EC07.webp
 
I’m about to start connecting the rear heater hoses. I bought the wits end rear heater bypass kit.

I’m using gates green stripe 5/8 Id hose.


The question is what type of clamps are best for the firewall heater connections?

1. constant torque clamp (see pic on the left) (big and maybe hard to get to later)


2. Or these standard ones that may be easier to get to later

E3927BEC-59DC-4FC5-991F-EB00366FD6B9.webp


39914638-E986-4E59-9DE2-07856DCA5833.webp
 
David Rodgers said:
I’m about to start connecting the rear heater hoses. I bought the wits end rear heater bypass kit.

I’m using gates green stripe 5/8 Id hose.


The question is what type of clamps are best for the firewall heater connections?

1. constant torque clamp (see pic on the left) (big and maybe hard to get to later)

David Rodgers said:
I’m about to start connecting the rear heater hoses. I bought the wits end rear heater bypass kit.

I’m using gates green stripe 5/8 Id hose.


The question is what type of clamps are best for the firewall heater connections?

1. constant torque clamp (see pic on the left) (big and maybe hard to get to later)


2. Or these standard ones that may be easier to get to later
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
I would use the standard spring type clamps as those barbs can deform easily if you crank the constant tension clamp too hard
 
Last edited:
BILT4ME said:
Did you just de-pin / re-pin them or did you have to cut and solder wires and all that nonsense?

I just saw your other thread about it.
Click to expand...

The wires on mine weren't brittle so I just de-pinned and re-pinned. But in some cases the wires close to the intake are so hard and degraded that its better to trim them back a distance and solder in new pigtails.
 
BILT4ME said:
Did you just de-pin / re-pin them or did you have to cut and solder wires and all that nonsense?

I just saw your other thread about it.
Click to expand...
Crushed the old connectors with a wrench (Toyo tech told me to do it), pushed in the old wires (clicked, pulled them to make sure they were in). It went pretty well. A little scary for the first time, but turned out well.
 
Last edited:
David Rodgers said:
I had no idea :). Thanks.

I was hoping that you wouldn’t say it’s “the main piston regulator gasket...you’ll have to pull the head off” :)
Click to expand...
hah. no.

Easy replacement....but don't screw your oil cap down too tight after putting a new gasket on it....or you'll be hard pressed to get it removed later (by hand).
 
I deleted the EGR, I need to “ball-bearing “ block the EGR hose and I need to buy a “test plug” for the electrical.
 
I didn’t rip out a lot of it since somebody might put the EGR back on later ( probably die with the truck, but you never know).
 
Also installed a new ECT sensor connector (3rd sensor from the front on the head) since my tab broke when removing it.

Crushed it with a wrench to free wires/terminals.


The Toyo tech said that they “always” crush them. He said that if the tabs break, then you know that they are brittle enough to crush.

13B04E99-FE7C-45CD-8E93-9F05CF3E55CA.webp
 
Picked up 3 hoses from the dealer today....

ONE HUNDRED AND TEN DOLLARS!

I’m going to return them after I take to O’reilly’s and make sure the ID is correct.(2 straight fuel and one for VSV)

I couldn’t believe it. I didn’t even ask the price when I ordered them because they were just a few pieces of hose.

D5BB4504-CFD7-4342-8DE1-E5C851F39735.webp
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom