- Thread starter
- #201
I might use EFI clamps.
Block surface dots
- Thread starter David Rodgers
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I'm not sure why people still buy stuff from them.
You are aware that the PS reservoir is available as NEW from Toyota, right?
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- #203
Yea, you’re right. That thing was junk. The one that I have (before that one) was in way better shape. I thought the one that I bought would be in better shape and it would be dry (so I could paint). Mine was sopping wet with ps fluid. In hindsight, I’ll never buy from them if this is what I can expect.
There a screen in the reservoir that can get clogged you’d be better off with a new one or open it up and clean the screen.
- Thread starter
- #205
What a major pain...pulling transmission lines off to replace the hose clamps. Took hours 
I had the oem clamps and they were too loose. Feel better about replacing them. I used the EFI hose clamps because they don’t tear the hose and you can tighten.
I had the oem clamps and they were too loose. Feel better about replacing them. I used the EFI hose clamps because they don’t tear the hose and you can tighten.
Good enough. I use them on my Oil Separator hoses and they've done fine. I'm sure yours will hold reliably.
- Thread starter
- #207
Changed oil, added coolant, power steering fluid , transmission fluid still looks good, I’ll check again after I crank.
How should I crank (don’t say...turn the key).
Any best method or procedure?
The battery is in and I turned the key to acc (power is on). Almost turned it one more but thought that I should ask.
How should I crank (don’t say...turn the key).
Any best method or procedure?
The battery is in and I turned the key to acc (power is on). Almost turned it one more but thought that I should ask.
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- Thread starter
- #208
Ok, could not wait. Turned the key and let it sit to pressurize fuel. Started up immediately. Great oil pressure and running fine. Idle a little high. Did not let it heat up fully since it’s in the garage. No check engine light now.
Opened windows and door. I still have the hood off and the lights off (gonna make a wiring harness for the spotlights). Still...got a little buzz I’m sure it’s great for me
Opened windows and door. I still have the hood off and the lights off (gonna make a wiring harness for the spotlights). Still...got a little buzz
I’m sure it’s great for me
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- Thread starter
- #209
Man, you can catch a buzz quick
FMC80
SILVER Star
Congrats! When are you going to ops check it fully?
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- #211
Probably a few days. I’m gonna buy another center light bar and make the wiring harness. I’m also cleaning up the hood and painting part of it. Also painting the front grill and gluing two broken head light brackets.
No insurance on the truck either. I turned it off since I knew it would sit for months. Turn it back on on Mon.
No insurance on the truck either. I turned it off since I knew it would sit for months. Turn it back on on Mon.
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- Thread starter
- #212
Just went out and checked for leaks. No leaks.
FMC80
SILVER Star
Right on man, you did a lot of work. Time to pour yourself a nice scotch. I’ll have a few tonight for ya too
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- #214
I just let it fully heat up. I ran it for about 20 minutes. Everything seems fine. I had to hold my breath and go in and check on it. Fan cycled twice. I could hear it. Temp stayed solid, oil pressure solid. No visible leaks. I’m going to let it cool and check levels again. No check engine light. Idle went down to 900. I’ll probably have to adjust due to all of the new stuff
The computer runs the Idle, you can't adjust it. The computer need to relearn after a few drive cycles it should settle downI just let it fully heat up. I ran it for about 20 minutes. Everything seems fine. I had to hold my breath and go in and check on it. Fan cycled twice. I could hear it. Temp stayed solid, oil pressure solid. No visible leaks. I’m going to let it cool and check levels again. No check engine light. Idle went down to 900. I’ll probably have to adjust due to all of the new stuff
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- #216
My throttle cable is toast also, it needs to be replaced. I pulled it off the throttle body. I adjusted the nuts to lower the rpms. You’re right though, with all the new stuff on the truck, I’m sure it will take a while. I’ve had a check engine light on this since I bought it 14 yrs agoThe computer runs the Idle, you can't adjust it. The computer need to relearn after a few drive cycles it should settle down
- Thread starter
- #217
Let it cool. No leaks, fluids look good.
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- #218
You know, I’m sure it’s my bad throttle cable because a have adjusted my idle for years . No kidding, it seems like in the winter, I have to turn it down. I just adjust (loosen or tighten) the nuts on the throttle cable and adjust it where I want the idle rpms and it stays until the season changes I know that the computer controls but it works when I tighten or loosen.
I don’t really understand why, but it really works.
crazy
. No kidding, it seems like in the winter, I have to turn it down. I just adjust (loosen or tighten) the nuts on the throttle cable and adjust it where I want the idle rpms and it stays until the season changes I know that the computer controls but it works when I tighten or loosen.I don’t really understand why, but it really works.
crazy
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You know, I’m sure it’s my bad throttle cable because a have adjusted my idle for years
I don’t really understand why, but it really works.
crazy
Yes, you CAN slightly adjust the idle rpm via the throttle cable. I've done that in the past as well. A rusted or 'sticky' cable needs to be replaced however...as you know.
Anytime you've had the battery disconnected for a period of time....the ECU will need to re-learn the idle. It can take several driving sequences for this to occur. Ignition timing will also influence idle speed a small amount...though this is where the computer tries to control it.