Block surface dots

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Started rebuilding the fan clutch, what a pain to separate (hit it with a block of wood gently about 500 times).

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Yep, some of those bolts in the rear will try your patience. Or it least did me.

Intake bolts and that darn 'ground strap' bolt right on the rear of the manifold. Do you think the engineers got together and brainstormed THE HARDEST possible spot to put that bolt? Had good laugh over it?
 
Yep, some of those bolts in the rear will try your patience. Or it least did me.

Intake bolts and that darn 'ground strap' bolt right on the rear of the manifold. Do you think the engineers got together and brainstormed THE HARDEST possible spot to put that bolt? Had good laugh over it?
You’re right. I don’t know how I would have gotten to that if I had already tightened up the manifold. I remembered before and was able to tilt the manifold in and tighten and then put the manifold in place. It’s just as bad if you went the “manifold on the head before it goes in the truck” route. They did pick the worst possible place to put it.
 
How in the hell do you torque that back bolt? :)


German Hand Torque 'Gutentight'.......call it good.

If it doesn't leak.....leave it be. If it does.....tighten it more.
 
Put in new fuel injectors, smeared gas on the o rings right before insert (per manual), installed fuel rail, put dilectric grease around connectors (to keep water out and so the connectors would slide on and off more easily). Torqued two of the three fuel bolts (put 2 crush washers on either side of the banjo bolts) to 22 pounds. Couldn’t torque that back fuel filter bolt, but tightened it up well.

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Hard to torque bolts with a 2.5 foot extension, laying on your back with and old gauge style torque wrench 2 inches from your eyeball.
 
Throttle body on, power steering reservoir Ordered from cruiser parts...that thing arrived and was in terrible shape. I had to grind, steel brush, hand sand that thing to get the rust off.

Spark plug wires, oil catch can, various vacuum lines, new air filter, new fan clutch ( started rebuilding the other and decided to go with new).

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I’m gonna change the oil and filter. Then run it a couple days and then change it again.

Smart move. Filled mine with some cheap Walmart oil and new filter. Ran it for about 50 miles (watching my oil pressure) and then changed it out for my regular oil and filter.
 
I replaced the transmission lines (and a bunch of fluid). I’m gonna replace through the dipstick, should I also fill the transmission cooler (pop the top line and fill)?

thanks for any info
 
I replaced the transmission lines (and a bunch of fluid). I’m gonna replace through the dipstick, should I also fill the transmission cooler (pop the top line and fill)?

thanks for any info

The pump will very quickly fill the lines and cooler and for you. Make your best 'guess' at the fill capacity, run the engine/trans to approximately operating temperature, check fluid level (in park, at idle, level surface) and adjust as necessary.
 
Transmission lines/radiator/shroud are really fun :) I used the gates 3/8 transmission cooler lines and they are fun getting on the nipples (even with transmission fluid on them). After struggling to get them on, the spring clamps seem loose (hose tight as crap, clamp loose). I used the oem clamps knowing that they would be loose, but thought that I’d give it a shot. I’m gonna double clamp them now (hose clamp in the front and slide the old oem clamp back, just to make sure. I don’t know if I can get the lines off without a struggle to get rid of the oem clamps. Fun!
 
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