Block surface dots
- Thread starter David Rodgers
- Start date
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Yes, you can reverse flush. Just use the garden hose.
Remember thought, this system is only designed for 15 PSI. A garden hose, if shoved in tight with no outlet, is 65 PSI. Keep that in mind. You don't want to rupture the core while you're trying to save it.
- Thread starter
- #103
It’s going to be open on both sides while I flush the core. So, the pressure should be low.
thanks for the info,
- Thread starter
- #104
Installed the water pump today with OEM gasket, torqued bolts to 15 lbs dry. Put loctite 242 (blue) on the fan studs.
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- #105
Started getting the PHH in line. I’m bypassing around the master cylinder with gates green stripe and constant torque clamps.
Does anybody have any great ideas about the orientation of the hose clamp (so that it will be reachable later
. Also, any idea on how to judge how tight that I should tighten this clamp?
Thanks in advance,
Does anybody have any great ideas about the orientation of the hose clamp (so that it will be reachable later
. Also, any idea on how to judge how tight that I should tighten this clamp?Thanks in advance,
FMC80
SILVER Star
I use a calibrated elbow to reach a value of gütentite. Not much is required, just enough tension to avoid slipping out (sts)
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- #107
I thought that might be the overwhelming answer. I’ll just try to turn it two turns past a monkeys ass
Most of those are in the 76 LB-IN range for correct torque.I thought that might be the overwhelming answer. I’ll just try to turn it two turns past a monkeys ass
Look at installed pics of the PHH in here for orientation. I think typically on top, pointing down and toward the front.
FMC80
SILVER Star
You’re like a machine. I mean that as a compliment.
Started getting the PHH in line. I’m bypassing around the master cylinder with gates green stripe and constant torque clamps.
Does anybody have any great ideas about the orientation of the hose clamp (so that it will be reachable later
Thanks in advance,
View attachment 2583536
I oriented the clamp on mine the same as you have shown. If you aren't careful to position it correctly, you'll find that the intake manifold will hit the clamp 'screw'.
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- #111
Like this? You’re right. It looks like you can get to it from the bottom with a wobble socket.
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- #112
My clamp is a lot bigger than yours (no pun intended
). I wonder if I should look for a smaller clamp. I want to get this as perfect as I can or I’ll be cursing later.Thanks,
My clamp is a lot bigger than yours (no pun intended
Thanks,
They are probably the same clamp or very similar.
Breeze Constant-Torque Hose Clamp, SAE Size 10, 9/16" to 1-1/16" D
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- #114
I’m going to put my manifold on later today and take a look. That’s the awesome part about cutting the intake, you can just slide it on without messing with the old wiring. I’ll send some pics.
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- #115
Painted lower intake
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- #116
Man, I put the lower manifold on to get a better perspective with the phh.
Put on the manifold and it’s like that thing disappears into darkness
I think that I’m going to leave mine like this (see pic). I don’t want it to get in the way of the manifold. I tried it a few ways and it seemed like it would kind of push out as I was tightening.
I couldn’t get a torque wrench on it either. I just tightened up pretty tight. Sure wish I would have put it on while the head was on the table (could have torqued it).
Put on the manifold and it’s like that thing disappears into darkness
I think that I’m going to leave mine like this (see pic). I don’t want it to get in the way of the manifold. I tried it a few ways and it seemed like it would kind of push out as I was tightening.
I couldn’t get a torque wrench on it either. I just tightened up pretty tight. Sure wish I would have put it on while the head was on the table (could have torqued it).
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- #117
Do I add dilectric grease to these? Do you fill up all the way to the terminals or just around the inside edge and not fill up?
I sprayed them all out with CRC electrical qd spray.
Thanks in advance,
I sprayed them all out with CRC electrical qd spray.
Thanks in advance,
Just enough Dielectric Grease to cover both contacting surfaces. And be sure that the contacts are a good mechanical fit (tight and undamaged) because D/G is an insulator and the two mating surfaces MUST be able to push the grease away. Dielectric Grease can be friend or Foe depending upon where and how you use it.
- Thread starter
- #119
Thanks, so really just on the plastic parts around the connector and not down into the connector. I saw Scotty Kilmer on YouTube fill up those connectors.
I’ll use minimally. I have original connectors and don’t know how tight they are.
thanks for the help, I appreciate it. First time doing this much.
Like here, around the edge (in yellow) and not into the connectors, right?
or...not even worry about it?
I’ll use minimally. I have original connectors and don’t know how tight they are.
thanks for the help, I appreciate it. First time doing this much.
Like here, around the edge (in yellow) and not into the connectors, right?
or...not even worry about it?
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No....its actually for use on the pins, spades, connectors themselves. Some folks try to use it as a moisture proofing agent, but most Toyota connectors are already weather rated. The idea is to get the grease on the contacting surfaces to prevent corrosion. Its OK if some of it squishes out around the perimeter of the fittings....but its simply waste IMO.