You just pry or pull the air switch out, less than a minute.
Best Mod for under $100 (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Bluetribal
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pressure clips on both sides, super easy.
NMBruce
SILVER Star
What I did, Watch the video in the second post, used it when changing out my stereo and running wires to the back, Dash trim removal (ashtray/12 volt panel in dash).
remove the first two trim pieces and then the middle piece will pop up and it's easy to get to the back side. You might be able to just pop out the leveling control, but for me it didn't want to pop out, it was coming apart. From the back side I was able to push it out.
Took 10 mins to change out
remove the first two trim pieces and then the middle piece will pop up and it's easy to get to the back side. You might be able to just pop out the leveling control, but for me it didn't want to pop out, it was coming apart. From the back side I was able to push it out.
Took 10 mins to change out
Bought these slip on armrest covers for $50, they fit very well and the color match is damn close. Made out of real leather, not vinyl, nice upgrade over my worn originals and beats shelling out $$$ for oem replacements.
Details on the slip ons! My big chicken wing has about wore it out...
Here you go;
https://www.amazon.com/2003-2009-Le...472769530&sr=8-1&keywords=gx470+armrest+cover
Think they sell on Ebay as well
So this mod is about $143 ($71.50/door) but well worth it. I had to replace my ML 6x9s so I figured I may as well do the other speakers too while I had the door panels off. All are 8ohm and require very little modification, in the case of the mid and tweeters I even used the stock brackets. Took about three hours. Watch online videos on how to remove door panels, if you don't know how, very easy. Update - Added sub upgrade below.
Speakers -
6x9 woofers - got these from another post. $57.97
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N8077VY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002BBP7Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IIC6CPE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
2" midrange - Picked mainly for their size but sound very decent. Clip or unsolder and reuse harness and bracket. Used some machine screws, washers and nuts to hold the speakers in the brackets. $17.95
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0008JHBOQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
1" tweeters - unsolder harness, re-use cap and bracket. You have to clip off a small plastic piece but the new tweeter snaps right in. I used some super glue just to make sure it stays put. These are the most expensive component but well worth it. $66.75
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EO76ZGS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
So much better than stock.
UPDATE: Went back in to apply Dynamat all over the doors. The improved bass was causing rattles and vibrations on the doors. Applied Dynamat all over the door and behind the 6x9 drivers. Much better. Amazing improvement over stock ML speakers and keeps getting better.
UPDATE2: Went back in and put 199uF caps on the 6x9s to limit the bass a bit as it was still shaking the door panels. I think the speaker grills are too restrictive and keeping air behind the panel.
UPDATE3: Since I was in audio upgrade mode, I ripped out the useless 6" sub box and put in a external 8" wired to the same stock amp (just extended wire out, box sits behind passenger second row seat pointing to back of truck). This sub driver is made for small enclosures as I didn't want a huge box back there. Its a 8" driver but requires a 9" hole in the box and a 10" grill. Really deep and punchy bass even from the stock amp. Doesn't come in under $100 but wanted to keep this all together. So happy with this setup.
"Tang Band W8-2022 8" RBM Subwoofer 8 Ohm" from www.parts-express.com!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003LYL4R0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N4918A0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Speakers -
6x9 woofers - got these from another post. $57.97
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N8077VY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002BBP7Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IIC6CPE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
2" midrange - Picked mainly for their size but sound very decent. Clip or unsolder and reuse harness and bracket. Used some machine screws, washers and nuts to hold the speakers in the brackets. $17.95
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0008JHBOQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
1" tweeters - unsolder harness, re-use cap and bracket. You have to clip off a small plastic piece but the new tweeter snaps right in. I used some super glue just to make sure it stays put. These are the most expensive component but well worth it. $66.75
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EO76ZGS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
So much better than stock.
UPDATE: Went back in to apply Dynamat all over the doors. The improved bass was causing rattles and vibrations on the doors. Applied Dynamat all over the door and behind the 6x9 drivers. Much better. Amazing improvement over stock ML speakers and keeps getting better.
UPDATE2: Went back in and put 199uF caps on the 6x9s to limit the bass a bit as it was still shaking the door panels. I think the speaker grills are too restrictive and keeping air behind the panel.
UPDATE3: Since I was in audio upgrade mode, I ripped out the useless 6" sub box and put in a external 8" wired to the same stock amp (just extended wire out, box sits behind passenger second row seat pointing to back of truck). This sub driver is made for small enclosures as I didn't want a huge box back there. Its a 8" driver but requires a 9" hole in the box and a 10" grill. Really deep and punchy bass even from the stock amp. Doesn't come in under $100 but wanted to keep this all together. So happy with this setup.
"Tang Band W8-2022 8" RBM Subwoofer 8 Ohm" from www.parts-express.com!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003LYL4R0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N4918A0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Isn't the ohm rating for the ML amp such that "normal" impedance (8 ohm) speakers are a problem to run with the factory amp(s)? I've just always heard that's why people are basically out of options WHEN the foam goes bad on the ML speakers - basically, there's only one speaker that will work with the "abnormal" ML components, and that's OEM.
Maybe someone with more EE knowledge can chime in and give a ruling on this.........
Most car speakers are 4ohm or lately even 2ohm. I measured the ones I removed they are 5.5-8ohm. Makes sense since ML is a home audio company historically.
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Oh ok. Good to know. It was my understanding they were something unusual like 16 ohm......
You can refoam the speakers too. Saw a video somewhere on you tube showing how and selling kits.
Yes you can do that but why? Won't be better, just back to the way it was at best. At least in my case they are 11yr old speakers, a lot has changed in speaker quality in 11yrs. It does have a downside, now the bass is so powerful things are starting to rattle.
The re-foam kits use a different material that does not dry rot. And is not that expensive if do yourself. Some folks want to keep the ML which sounds fine when not broken. I have a no Nav unit so not an issue for me.
Well this worked out most excellent so I thought I would share. I'll post night picture later. Installed single LED bars in the bumper vent holes. Cutting out the plastic grill inside each opening was easy, just need a sharp knife. Had to grind the short brackets that come with the LED bars a bit on the outside bracket corners, but they fit perfectly. Had to buy a 90deg adaptor for my drill to make things easier. Wired to a remote relay kit so I can turn them on/off from the tent when camping. Also didn't require much wiring or going through the firewall. Relay kit comes with two remotes, you can mount one inside the cab too.
2ea 50W 5000lm 11" Cree LED light bars - $34/ea
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...arch_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1#customerReviews
1ea 15A remote relay kit - $16
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000PI9E4K/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
2ea 50W 5000lm 11" Cree LED light bars - $34/ea
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...arch_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1#customerReviews
1ea 15A remote relay kit - $16
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000PI9E4K/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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teejnut
SILVER Star
That looks good, been wondering if this was possible. How's the light output? Any pics of output?
Well this worked out most excellent so I thought I would share. I'll post night picture later. Installed single LED bars in the bumper vent holes. Cutting out the plastic grill inside each opening was easy, just need a sharp knife. Had to grind the short brackets that come with the LED bars a bit but they fit perfectly. Had to buy a 90deg adaptor for my drill to make things easier. Wired to a remote relay kit so I can turn them on/off from the tent when camping. Also didn't require much wiring or going through the firewall. Relay kit comes with two remotes, you can mount one inside the cab too.
2ea 50W 5000lm 11" Cree LED light bars - $34/ea
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...arch_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1#customerReviews
1ea 15A remote relay kit - $16
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000PI9E4K/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Had to wait for it to get dark. Not as evident in the pictures since the phone camera compensates for level, but the LEDs massively overpowers the headlights. Noticeable color temperature difference too. Need to change headlights now.
Headlights
LEDs and headlights
Headlights
Headlights and LEDs
Headlights
LEDs and headlights
Headlights
Headlights and LEDs
Removed the light shields inside my fog lights.... FREE
I put some LED bulbs in my fog lights. The style of bulb that I got projects the light forward and sideways which goes directly into the shield that is inside the housing. The shield is not reflective on the inside. Not too bright that way.
I removed the shield by taking out the light, loosening the adjuster screw completely, popping the inner part off of the pivots, flipping the inner assembly around to get to the shield screw, holding it with my finger while removing the shield screw, flipping it back around and pulling it back in with the adjuster screw and popping the pivots back on. Pretty self explanatory when you start messing with them.
That is the adjuster screw and one of the pivots on the inside.
That is the inner assembly flipped around to remove the shield screw.
Shields out with the bulb installed.
Much brighter......
I put some LED bulbs in my fog lights. The style of bulb that I got projects the light forward and sideways which goes directly into the shield that is inside the housing. The shield is not reflective on the inside. Not too bright that way.
I removed the shield by taking out the light, loosening the adjuster screw completely, popping the inner part off of the pivots, flipping the inner assembly around to get to the shield screw, holding it with my finger while removing the shield screw, flipping it back around and pulling it back in with the adjuster screw and popping the pivots back on. Pretty self explanatory when you start messing with them.
That is the adjuster screw and one of the pivots on the inside.
That is the inner assembly flipped around to remove the shield screw.
Shields out with the bulb installed.
Much brighter......
with these fog lights retrofitted the way you have them can you still adjust the beam or is it just scattered? Pics would be great at night if you could post those.
You can still adjust up and down.... night pics to come
