Builds Bemerritt Builds a 1970

[White Stripe]

I mean, i somewhat get what you are saying, but at the same point this 40 checks a lot of the boxes. Finessing some sales to get a couple grand back quite frankly isn't what I'd want to do right now. Let alone hunting down a rust free frame, pre 75 title, running motor, full doors/top, with a relatively rust free body (minus the floors) is no easy task as it is. Also, I've never built a 40, let alone any vehicle. So sometimes starting with a complete vehicle gives you a template. Even if you replace half of it, you get to see it all put together so you have a sense of the end game, or what doesn't work for your setup.

60 axles are just kind of happened because I wanted fine spline birfs, disc brakes and lockers. so......package deal, done. Could that be done with the 40 axles, ofcourse. But one was already done with the cut and turn so i jumped on it. Wider stance is a bonus. outboarding the leaf mounts in the front isn't the easiest thing in the world, but I also got this to have fun fabricating.

As far as turning back, too late for that. Front leaf mounts and hangers are out. Shackle/spring reversal is in progress. Starting to have it lined up, but want to get the power steering mocked up with a bumper to see how I want to tie it all in with the frond leaf mount once outboarded.

View attachment 3017652

Will be reusing the mounts for the front leaf mounts. The tubes are from the OEM shackle hangers, these will be thru the frame

View attachment 3017651

Welding spring perches back on is very very easy. For the build your doing your going to have to throw away everything but the body and frame. So you bought a entire unmolested 40 bone stock, and are going to have to throw most of it away. Buying a cut up 40 you usually get a bunch of parts you can use at a huge discount that can get you ahead of the game. A lot of guys get 70% done with a project and find they cant finish it for some reason and selling it for pennies on the dollar. I can always find such 40s on Craigslist or something that check the boxes of a pre 75 and rust free frame. There are several in classifieds on mud right now of such 40s. Sometimes they have lockers and a v8 already. As far as axles, I just don't think stock 40 axles or fj60 axles are wide enough for serious trail use. Anyway I won't muddy up your thread anymore. Not trying to be a party pooper, just trying to help you out. On mud you see guys doing it the hard way, and guys doing it the easier way. You can save yourself a lot of money and time if you are careful.

 

[cruisermatt]

You would have a much easier time with the pump/alternator situation leaving the alternator in its originally location/wiring and using a 3FE pump/bracket on the passenger side. It bolts right up, and a Volvo-version Saginaw can replace it pretty easily later if needed

You will need a double groove crank and WP pulleys. Can also be had from 2F/3FE.

3FE alternator can bolt-in place on your original driver’s side lower location if you do want more juice later.

 

[bemerritt]

You would have a much easier time with the pump/alternator situation leaving the alternator in its originally location/wiring and using a 3FE pump/bracket on the passenger side. It bolts right up, and a Volvo-version Saginaw can replace it pretty easily later if needed

You will need a double groove crank and WP pulleys. Can also be had from 2F/3FE.

3FE alternator can bolt-in place on your original driver’s side lower location if you do want more juice later.

Thanks for this, I'll hit the searches to wrap my head around it.

 

[bemerritt]

While I wait for the power steering parts to show up, I took trimmed the steering column at the box and removed the box/bracket.

Then did some work starting to come up with the plan for the shackle reversal and outboarding the leaf mounts. Going to box the front when I do the power steering, and then tie it in to the front bumper mounts. Still working out hte exact placement, but will look something like this. Will be adding additional braces to teh bumper mounts as well.

 

[bemerritt]

One step closer to burning in the front suspension. Welded the cut bushing tubes from the old shackle hanger to some plate, that I then sat flush to the inside of the frame rails, which boxed in the frame where one of the large circular cutouts were. This helped me keep it perpendicular. It also then let me just drill one hole in the outside of the frame rail.

Springs are stock with one leaf removed, still hope they flatten out more with more weight on the front. If my math is right, it won't bottom out on the frame rail at full extension. Up next is actually making the shackles with new steel and the proper sized spacers.

 

[bemerritt]

Well, definitely need to catch this up a bit, as I have been spending a ton of time ordering parts and continuing to dismantle down to the frame.

Finally got the spring hangers all squared away to where the leafs are perfectly level. 1.25" spacers for anyone that wildly chooses to go down the path of outboarding fj60 axles with a through hole mount. Hangars are 1.5" x 7.5" x .25" with the holes 5.5" center to center. Just need to weld and paint once i pull the axles.

Got the 37" KM3's mounted on some 17" procomps with 3.5" backspacing. This ended up being perfect to not needing spacers to clear the leafs at full lock. 37s just look right. This got me way too excited.

Pulled the engine

Got the power steering all mocked up, just clears the frame rail.

Took me way too long to figure out the inner workings of the horn, but all the parts are there! just need a new rubber washer. Still figuring out how to ground the steering shaft, might try the bronze bushing in the steering column.

 

[bemerritt]

So the engine is out, now what? Well, decided to completely disassemble it. Never been remotely this far into a vehicle and I straight up just wanted to out of curiosity sake.

 

[bemerritt]

Overall everything seemed pretty good considering the age.

- slop in the timing/cam gear was in spec
- most bearings look decent except the cam bearings
- cylinders measured in standard spec!
- fractured piston ring as seen in the pic

so the plan as of now is to take it to the machine shop to get hot dipped and have them replace the cam bearings. Will get their opinon, but planning on using these pistons and getting new rings.

Overall the goal of this is to refresh it and send this engine on its way until it craps out or i want more power, or i stumble into a cheap 2f to rebuild. some may say to do more while im already in this deep, just dont feel like committing to boring, and oversized pistons and rings. Please tell me if this is a terrible decision. Seems most would say to not rebuild a 1f, but they would probably also say dont take it apart......sooooo here we are. Mainly got here from curiosity but also really needing to get the coolant jackets cleaned out good, and no amount of acid and flushing was allowing me to do that it seemed.

 

[bemerritt]

Some would probably say to hot dip before lapping the valves, but i was both eager to see how good they could possibly look as well as liking the idea that all of the lapping compound would be cleaned off. Was really happy with how the exhaust is cleaning up.

Before

After

 

[bemerritt]

One day got distracted and took a look inside the transfer case and transmission. Definitely happy i didnt drive it without rebuilding the transfer case, as there was some water in it. These now sit in tubs to find out their fate at a later date. This is where I haven't really made up my mind yet. Would love an orion, and leaning that way. I do want to convert from vacum to floor shift on the transfer case, does going with the orion impact that at all?

For the 3 speed tranny, i dont think i'd hate it. Will probably look into someone doing a rebuild on the one I got.

 

[bemerritt]

Some current work in progress....

Deciding if I want to raise my shock mounts. With the soa and where the shock mount is on these 60 axles, i only have about 1" to spare on full droop. Also currently having a bear of a time getting the fox shocks on the stock mount.

Going with beefy 80 series tie rod ends. Waiting for the tap to arrive to then cut steering rod and drag link.

Real steel floor panels came in. Not perfect by any means, need to figure out why the tranny hump doesn't line up.

Modeling up the sliders. want to get these welded on before I remove the body so I can get them where I want, and can then prep and paint the frame all at once.

 

[EWheeler]

For the 3 speed tranny, i dont think i'd hate it. Will probably look into someone doing a rebuild on the one I got.

Trust me, you will. Do a 4 speed and do not look back. With FJ 60 rear axle, you have option to go with FJ60 H42 and splitcase, and revert to drums with parking brake on the rear axle. You can get 3:1 and 4:1 in the splitcase aftermarket crawler gears. If youre really feeling froggy, h55f and splitcase with crawler gears. Do NOT keep the 3 spd with your intended use of the truck! Also, nothing wrong with the FJ40 H42 and orion like you mentioned.

 

[EWheeler]

You are moving right along, very impressive work!

 

[65swb45]

Here’s an option for retaining the stock tower AND increasing shock length:

FJ40 and FJ45 front shock tower extensions

[I figured I would post this up in tech, since I believe the discussion is generic to different options for installing longer-travel shocks.] Credit for this idea goes 100% to @Downey. It has been a very long time now, but IIRC Jim originally designed this product in about 2001, concurrent...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[bemerritt]

Trust me, you will. Do a 4 speed and do not look back. With FJ 60 rear axle, you have option to go with FJ60 H42 and splitcase, and revert to drums with parking brake on the rear axle. You can get 3:1 and 4:1 in the splitcase aftermarket crawler gears. If youre really feeling froggy, h55f and splitcase with crawler gears. Do NOT keep the 3 spd with your intended use of the truck! Also, nothing wrong with the FJ40 H42 and orion like you mentioned.

Ok ok, you are right. Every single person i talked to at cruise moab sang the 5 speed with split transfer case tune. I will let you know, my wife did not like it when i broke it to her that the internet told me to spend 5k on a new setup, but I think we can make it happen early next year.

Now to just figure out the parking brake situation. I was really leaning rear discs, but now im thinking of keeping my FJ60 drums that i have. All of the parking brake assembly is gone, may need to hit up Mark and add that to the list next time i head up there.......

Here’s an option for retaining the stock tower AND increasing shock length:

FJ40 and FJ45 front shock tower extensions

[I figured I would post this up in tech, since I believe the discussion is generic to different options for installing longer-travel shocks.] Credit for this idea goes 100% to @Downey. It has been a very long time now, but IIRC Jim originally designed this product in about 2001, concurrent...

forum.ih8mud.com

Thanks Mark! hadn't seen that before.

 

[EWheeler]

Ok ok, you are right. Every single person i talked to at cruise moab sang the 5 speed with split transfer case tune. I will let you know, my wife did not like it when i broke it to her that the internet told me to spend 5k on a new setup, but I think we can make it happen early next year.

Now to just figure out the parking brake situation. I was really leaning rear discs, but now im thinking of keeping my FJ60 drums that i have. All of the parking brake assembly is gone, may need to hit up Mark and add that to the list next time i head up there.......


Thanks Mark! hadn't seen that before.

All fj60 drum parking brake parts are still available new from toyota.

You can also find a used late model FJ60 h42 trans with spacer, with splitcase attached and install that for the time being and buy an h55f when funds allow and it will be a direct bolt in place swap. I have a loose h42 with spacer and attached splitcase you can borrow for mockup until you find a suitable donor for your build. You are moving waaaaay faster than i am on any of my junk, i likey wont need it until long after you find your donor stuff.

 

[bemerritt]

Started working on the floor pans. also have some other spots to replace. Took me way too long to realize that in order for it to go in "right", the floor supports have to come out. Still weighing my options here. Any advice welcome.

First cutout looks good

Passenger side will take a little more work as it doesnt line up as well. Also doesn't match the trans tunnel profile. But mine is all bashed up so will need a new one anyways. Especially with a 5 speed and new TC.

 

[bemerritt]

All fj60 drum parking brake parts are still available new from toyota.

You can also find a used late model FJ60 h42 trans with spacer, with splitcase attached and install that for the time being and buy an h55f when funds allow and it will be a direct bolt in place swap. I have a loose h42 with spacer and attached splitcase you can borrow for mockup until you find a suitable donor for your build. You are moving waaaaay faster than i am on any of my junk, i likey wont need it until long after you find your donor stuff.

That is a very awesome offer, might have to take you up on it. I really want to see your beauties at some point as well. Thanks for the parking brake tip and I will definitely read up on the h42.

 

[65swb45]

I should stop by sometime and have a look! I rode my bicycle through San Clemente two weeks ago. Hope to do it again next month.

 

[bemerritt]

I should stop by sometime and have a look! I rode my bicycle through San Clemente two weeks ago. Hope to do it again next month.

For sure! can you strap a 2f bell housing and the rest of the clutch components needed to mate to a 5 speed to your bike?!?! But really, I am getting closer to going that direction and will be calling you probably next week once I have a little longer to think on it. Will probably make a dedicated thread requesting some opinions on what trans to go with given my use case.