Builds Bemerritt Builds a 1970

[bemerritt]

On goes the machined 3 spd flywheel inside the 4 spd bell housing. Will be using all 3 spd clutch components with the 4 spd bellhousing to mate to the 5 spd transmission. Clear as mud? Well mud told me it would work, so onward. Also finally gave me a chance to torque the crank nut..

 

[bemerritt]

Well, just clicked buy on the h55f/splitcase combo. Opted out of the lower gearing, for now. Now to mock it all up for driveshafts and to make a transmission corssmember. Will it drive by the end of the year??? Thats the goal!

for the rear I am going to point the rear diff right at the thransfer case and go with:

Toyota Land Cruiser Rear Drive Shaft, Double Cardan

Toyota Land Cruiser CV Rear Drive Shaft This is what you need if your Toyota Land Cruiser is lifted and you are experiencing vibrations due to increased angles. Also a great upgrade for Toyotas that came with a stock double cardan drive shaft. This is a rear shaft only and can be made any length...

4xshaft.com

For the front I am somewhat constrained by the previous cut and turn on the axle. Looks like I'll be at about a 10 degree pinion angle, which seems fine. Any recommendations on what to do for a front drive shaft? Just do the same as the rear?

 

[EWheeler]

Well, just clicked buy on the h55f/splitcase combo. Opted out of the lower gearing, for now. Now to mock it all up for driveshafts and to make a transmission corssmember. Will it drive by the end of the year??? Thats the goal!

for the rear I am going to point the rear diff right at the thransfer case and go with:

Toyota Land Cruiser Rear Drive Shaft, Double Cardan

Toyota Land Cruiser CV Rear Drive Shaft This is what you need if your Toyota Land Cruiser is lifted and you are experiencing vibrations due to increased angles. Also a great upgrade for Toyotas that came with a stock double cardan drive shaft. This is a rear shaft only and can be made any length...

4xshaft.com

For the front I am somewhat constrained by the previous cut and turn on the axle. Looks like I'll be at about a 10 degree pinion angle, which seems fine. Any recommendations on what to do for a front drive shaft? Just do the same as the rear?

For front, probably depends on intended use. If you ever want to 4x4 at speed, you'll want angles right. If just wheeling, you'll likely get away with not having the angles perfect. If you go DC shaft, you'll want the pinion of the diff pointed at the DC joint. If DC is a no-go, pinion flange of TC & diff should be parallel-ish. One thing to consider is crossmember clearance. A DC joint could help with crossmember/driveshaft clearance.

 

[65swb45]

…and if you need ideas on how to build a stout crossmember, check out what @bmoonhajjar had made for his rig.

 

[bemerritt]

For front, probably depends on intended use. If you ever want to 4x4 at speed, you'll want angles right. If just wheeling, you'll likely get away with not having the angles perfect. If you go DC shaft, you'll want the pinion of the diff pointed at the DC joint. If DC is a no-go, pinion flange of TC & diff should be parallel-ish. One thing to consider is crossmember clearance. A DC joint could help with crossmember/driveshaft clearance.

Thanks for the info. Dont think the original F will be taking this fast anywhere and I cant point the front at the flange, so ill give a non DC a chance in the front. Should have mentioned, relocated the rear crossmember on the frame back a bit, so should be all good on clearance there.

 

[bemerritt]

…and if you need ideas on how to build a stout crossmember, check out what @bmoonhajjar had made for his rig.

Ill have to find some pics. I did order the mount, so just need to fab up a crossmember.

 

[bemerritt]

Well I think i did this right. Lined up the BB. Some posts seemed to have the BB at the bottom of the window.

Also got the new PCV on and made some offset washers for the manifold to accomodate the headers.

 

[bemerritt]

Oh, and this showed up today.... shout out to @cruiseroutfit for getting this to my door just 1 week after ordering.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Oh, and this showed up today.... shout out to @cruiseroutfit for getting this to my door just 1 week after ordering.

View attachment 3266923

Thank you!

 

[bemerritt]

New clutch in, transmission in and measurements for driveshafts made. Next up is a transmission mount and reading the endless threads on track bars. Was hoping I wouldn't need one behind the original F, but seems like it is a rather be safe than sorry kind of thing. Please enlighten if wrong.

 

[Skreddy]

Oh, and this showed up today.... shout out to @cruiseroutfit for getting this to my door just 1 week after ordering.

View attachment 3266923

Looking great!

I am really debating a 5 speed for my 87 60 I just bought and haven’t even really driven….

 

[EWheeler]

Could you get away without a traction bar, for sure. Will you be pissed if you snap a pinion due to spring wrap and torque, most definitely. A lot of breakage can be averted by knowing how to drive the terrain given the abilities of your vehicle. Ledges or holes that provide large obstacles for your rear tires will cause axle/spring wrap as the torque delivered to the rear axle deflects the springs into a W shape versus spin the tires and propel you forward if you don't have a traction bar and are spring over. This can lead to a snapped pinion. Other situations where you risk breakage is a high speed attack of a hill/obstacle due to lack of traction and the bouncing and torque can also wrap the spring to the point the pinion snaps. Lockers and gearing and big tires helps with the traction aspect. Lockers front and rear allow a much more controlled approach to crawling than open diffs which puts less stress on things. If it was my truck, I would build an anti-wrap / traction bar.

 

[EWheeler]

New clutch in, transmission in and measurements for driveshafts made. Next up is a transmission mount and reading the endless threads on track bars. Was hoping I wouldn't need one behind the original F, but seems like it is a rather be safe than sorry kind of thing. Please enlighten if wrong.

View attachment 3271840

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For a wheeler, I would consider a rear crossmember that supports the leverage of the t-case hanging way out there, but does little to resist torque, versus an under belly transmission mount like the FJ60 has. You don't want the rear support too rigid, many problems with the early FJ40 "propeller" style t-case crossmembers being too rigid and it plays hell on the interface between the t-case and trans and leads to leaks.

Here is a beautiful example from Don and FC Fabrication that I saved for inspiration:

 

[EWheeler]

a benefit to a rear crossmember like above is that it can also be utilized to mount the shackle hanger of your traction bar

 

[EWheeler]

Here is another FC Fabrication masterpiece rear crossmember/t-case support.

 

[EWheeler]

I'm ashamed to admit how much time I spent looking for these photos on an old hard drive today, but I knew they existed, and they did. I am also ashamed to admit the truck hasn't seen use since I built this back in 2015 or so....but I built this skid structure/t-case support for my '80 FJ40 with H42/Rockbox/one piece t-case. I reused the hub & cone from the old propeller mount that was originally on the truck. Just another way to skin the cat.

 

[bemerritt]

I'm ashamed to admit how much time I spent looking for these photos on an old hard drive today, but I knew they existed, and they did. I am also ashamed to admit the truck hasn't seen use since I built this back in 2015 or so....but I built this skid structure/t-case support for my '80 FJ40 with H42/Rockbox/one piece t-case. I reused the hub & cone from the old propeller mount that was originally on the truck. Just another way to skin the cat.

View attachment 3272639

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Thank you so much for all of the pics. They provide much needed inspiration.

After reading too many. way too entertaining threads on a track bar, I'll definitely have one. My rear 60 axle already has the mount and I have the bar they used, so really not employing one is being lazy. As you mentioned, a T-case support member would be very helpful as a track bar mount, as my cross member i moved rearward is now not in a good place to get a long enough track bar mounted.

Lots to think about, and thanks again for the inspiration. I've moved on to rebuilding the axles so i can have a roller again, so i have time to ponder this.

 

[bemerritt]

One simple pic, but a monumental step, at least for me. Back to being a roller. Couple of comments

1. Dont try and put the rear diff on the front axle. It will make you scratch your head and feel like an idiot as to why it was not working as intended with the birfs installed!
2. Moving around axles and 37s absolutely sucks solo. Also, i need a shop. And a lift, but mainly a bigger shop
3. I forgot how beefy it looks with the wheels/tires installed.
4. I realllllly want to drive this thing

Lots to do, but time to run fuel/brake lines before putting the body back on

 

[bemerritt]

Forgot to mention, axles were completely stripped, welded, epoxy primered and painted. All new seals and bearings. Ready for a couple "easier" tasks, like that damn broken alternator pulley and fan that doesn't explode.

 

[bemerritt]

Time to change things up a bit. Wanted to get the body back on the frame to make sure the tranny and transfer case would fit as well as get all the fuel/brake/steering lines ran. somehow pulled this off solo.