MOTOV8R
SILVER Star
The paint would probably stick better if you were a little more thorough in cleaning your parts.
Just joking, your work is amazing. Great build.
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The paint would probably stick better if you were a little more thorough in cleaning your parts.
Just joking, your work is amazing. Great build.
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- #162
More paint..
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- #164
Yes I know I should've done a better job cleaning them
The KBS motor enamel gloss on the parts is like a mirror.. I can shave my beard in it ..
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- #165
Some more black...
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- #166
..and some silver. Again KBS Motor Coater Enamel - Aluminium color
Nice
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- #168
Happy Holydays
nice work, glad the KBS is working so well for you.
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- #170
KBS works really nice.. this is the first time I have ever used a spray gun. I added a small dash of #1 KBS thinner and it went like a dream. I must admit we had over 110F on the day and my shed was like an oven.
I'm now thinking of what would happen if I was going to spray the body myself.. I'll see maybe I'll start with smaller parts but my only concern is the lack of a dust free cabin. So probably not..
I sprayed mine in my shop on a warm summer day, but mine is flat tan - so it hides most sins. Gloss I have sprayed as well, but I made a booth out of clear plastic and pvc pipe then used box fans to pull air through the 'booth' with several furnace filters on the other end, it worked okay but (this being the US) I should have simply rented a 'real' booth for $125.00 when I shot glossy paint. Even with those precautions I still got a bug or two and dust. That said, they did color-sand out fine.
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- #172
Jumping from one end to the other. I have received the wiring harness firewall grommets from Roger alias Racer65 I have been chasing this part for about two years without much success. Finally Cityracer LLC recreated it in better than oem quality. The material is firm yet very elastic and strong, it feels oily and smooth and has the appearence of high quality manufacturing. I have no doubt it is not only made to fit oem dimensions but it is definitely made to last us long. It is now filling another gap - also on the firewall - that annoyed so many of us and made many to imprivise blocking off water, fumes, noise etc. The devil hides in the details and without this detail it almost felt like being in the same room with the running engine.
It fits all 40 series somewhat 79' and later models, no exact date as it never had an individual part number as it came with the wiring.
I have so far rebuilt the LH side opposite the fuse box harness. Soon will follow the other side including the fuse box upgrade with Cityracer's other superstar item the fuse panel.
It fits all 40 series somewhat 79' and later models, no exact date as it never had an individual part number as it came with the wiring.
I have so far rebuilt the LH side opposite the fuse box harness. Soon will follow the other side including the fuse box upgrade with Cityracer's other superstar item the fuse panel.
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- #173
My gearbox has been assembled - Pierre at TopGear thank you for the awesome job. Too bad the troopy should have a glass floor 
Enjoying the build.
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- #175
I have made a rooky error when sandblasted the engine block. I thought I have blocked off every hole on that block but ... 
when I removed the stump I realised that not exactly.
At the rear of the crankshaft the bolt holes of the flywheel are not bottomed as I thought - ask me how I know this!
Now since I need to remove the crankshaft to get it washed I probably rather just get the whole thing done once and for all.
I wanted to keep the oem engine block since it only had low mileage but now since every bolt is out I will not compromise so I just bite the bullet and get on to it asap. Usual bearings, valve job, pistons get done with new caps and rings etc.
Can someone tell me what exactly balancing the engine means?
I have heard so many people saying so many different explanations..
when I removed the stump I realised that not exactly.At the rear of the crankshaft the bolt holes of the flywheel are not bottomed as I thought - ask me how I know this!
Now since I need to remove the crankshaft to get it washed I probably rather just get the whole thing done once and for all.
I wanted to keep the oem engine block since it only had low mileage but now since every bolt is out I will not compromise so I just bite the bullet and get on to it asap. Usual bearings, valve job, pistons get done with new caps and rings etc.
Can someone tell me what exactly balancing the engine means?
I have heard so many people saying so many different explanations..
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- #176
Me too but my pocket is suffering badly
As I understand it, you take your crankshaft and everything solidly attached to it and have it balanced. Next take the pistons and make them the same weight. Now do the same with the piston rods.I have made a rooky error when sandblasted the engine block. I thought I have blocked off every hole on that block but ...
At the rear of the crankshaft the bolt holes of the flywheel are not bottomed as I thought - ask me how I know this!
Now since I need to remove the crankshaft to get it washed I probably rather just get the whole thing done once and for all.
I wanted to keep the oem engine block since it only had low mileage but now since every bolt is out I will not compromise so I just bite the bullet and get on to it asap. Usual bearings, valve job, pistons get done with new caps and rings etc.
Can someone tell me what exactly balancing the engine means?
I have heard so many people saying so many different explanations..
As the rotating parts are similar in weight, they will balance each other out. This will make the engine run smoother and allow higher revs.
balancing is being sure the weight of the pistons/rods are counter-balanced by the same amount of weight on the crank. Blueprint is making sure that there is no variance in that weight. Blueprinting a block is making sure the block has no manufacturing tolerance.
how to blueprint a crank. Put the new pistons on the rods, weight them. Find the lowest weight combination and make all the rest the same as that. Whatever that weight is, they clamp to the journals on the crank and spin it like they do your tires. They add or remove weight based upon the results of the spin test.
with all that said, if you don't have to change the pistons (low mileage), there is no sense in doing anything more then thorough clean and reassembly with new bearings... this isn't a race motor and it's linear rather then a V so balancing is really needless. Do what they call a re-ring and call it good. That requires a light hone and you can upgrade the rings to moly - which has better sealing, longer life, and less friction while you're at this point.... outside of that, take the low-cost way.
how to blueprint a crank. Put the new pistons on the rods, weight them. Find the lowest weight combination and make all the rest the same as that. Whatever that weight is, they clamp to the journals on the crank and spin it like they do your tires. They add or remove weight based upon the results of the spin test.
with all that said, if you don't have to change the pistons (low mileage), there is no sense in doing anything more then thorough clean and reassembly with new bearings... this isn't a race motor and it's linear rather then a V so balancing is really needless. Do what they call a re-ring and call it good. That requires a light hone and you can upgrade the rings to moly - which has better sealing, longer life, and less friction while you're at this point.... outside of that, take the low-cost way.
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- #179
Good explanation, thank you! I have dropped off the block yesterday to this old-school mechanic/machinist and he explained me the same. He also said he puts the flywheel and the harmonic balancer on it along with what you said. He showed me some of his work chromoly racing stuff.. not for this engine thus. He said it will improve running dinamics and torque and he will clean all stupid sand mistake I've made.
honestly, I wouldn't spend it - I have a $20,000 455 Buick motor that had all of that done to it, I'm running a 350 Chevy in my FJ40 that I did not balance with new pistons.... key to saving money is not spending it where you don't need to.... if you decide you need more then 6,000 rpms - well, then balance that motor. Of course, the caveat is spend your money buying good parts. There's an epic discussion I'm not going to point to where I was explaining to someone that a Chinese turbo costs more then a Garret or Borg-Warner. The person was certain that his $500, high-end, balanced Chinese turbo cost less. They don't, the comparable BW turbo was about $1200 at the time - by the time you paid for good bearings (read, not chinese), installed them, then balanced the turbo after checking it for porosity and cracks, you'd have $1500 in that $500 turbo. For complete disclosure, I have those $500 turbos - I'm using them to mock up the motor in my 50 Buick.... they will never be spun by the exhaust of this motor (though, I'm certain they will end up on another 455 I don't care as much about).
