Builds Barn Find 1983 FJ45 Troopcarrier

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Look, I now understand that there is new balancing methods on expensive latest machinery balancing race engines to near zero tolerance. That is surely unnecessary and waste of money for a 2F. However in my case this is an oldschool machinist and he will scale and spin my crank for a good balance better than stock tolerance without charging any extra. Its just part of his build.
I would never put any chinese rubbish in this entire resto not in the engine not elsewhere. He's going to give it a light hone new rings maybe heads depending on how they are, valve job, and trust me if he balances my cranshaft with the flywheel it wont hurt me having it.
 
look what I found this morning :)

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I have cleaned up the harmonic balancer and realised there is a rubber inlay which I never noticed under the original paint/rust before. Its like an integral or moulded rubber seal or something like that.
Does anyone know what is the purpose of it, I couldn't figure it what is for. I have not seen this in earlier models.
Or is it like the upgraded version of the clutch housing tdc viewing slot cover? It used to be made of just metal and I its now rubber inlay on inner side.

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OME front springs in place.. the axle housing is just there not yet done, I just couldn't withstand not to try it in :) it will be removed for installing the knuckle bearing races and shaft seal.
Ah, yeah and talking about shafts.. I have upgraded the CV joint and front shafts to RCV's gun drilled shafts. I got so obsessed with the opportunity to inject grease to the joint without stripping the front. I know some will say but there is a greasing hole on the knuckel housing .. but thats not the same. You can only add some grease to the outside of the CV and hope for the best to go in. Or you can fill up the whole cavity but then you have no expansion room if things get hot. And so I loved the gun-drilled idea, to shoot grease straight in the heart of the joint where is needed.
I wanted to show this really cool anti-seize too I will use for all bolts and screws in the chassis. I wantend to save from cold-welding of screws probably for generations come.

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I just discovered a few details about this troopy. We knew that it had stock a/c. As I was thinking about adding p/s I discovered that it already has the triple wee harmonic balancer and the double pulley on the water pump. Both these details indicate that it may had p/s in previous life.
I happened to have a stock p/s kit that includes the pump/pump bracket, box, correct length steering shaft and all hoses/pipes. When I compared the steering shaft and seen that they are identical length I then came to realisation that the troopy must have had power steering. It's pump and box were only removed at some stage.
Well, thats' good I said I will put back the stock p/s then.
There is one more hurdle to tackle is the front tension bracket of the a/c compressor. That bracket if no p/s bolted to the cylinder head with three bolts through the engine lift hook. But if there is p/s and a/c then that spot is occupied by the p/s vane pump bracket, therefore the a/c compressor's tension bracket is different. That beeing said, its shorter and is bolted to the bottom secrion of the vane pump bracket with two bolts at the opposite of the vane pumps tension slide.
I found that unobtainable bracket very very luckily as the whole a/c p/s combo was depending on it.

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The oversize radiator for p/s and/or a/c 16400-61030 is no longer available not even as aftermarket. Compared to the regular radiator this one is slightly wider and has 4core lines.
After about 6months of researching I gave up chasing this toyota part code and decided to have the old one re-cored.
One of the most revered 4wd mechanics and V8 diesel conversion specialists in Australia is Brunswick Diesel.
After a few over the phone discussions I have decided to pay them a visit.
I had the best positive surprise ever. They have a mini factory with various stations and at least 15 service bays.
They do it all in house. Rebuild, and convert Landcruiser with V8 diesel "monster" engines from the US.
Bradley, one of the senior specialists took me around and explained all in details what will they do with my radiator. Basically apart from the side mounting brackets everything is new.
They have most japanese oem pattern tank tops from brass and better quality Australian made cores. They can replicate any oem radiator and the indicated $500-$600 approx cost is not even expensive. They will also do the a/c condenser. The photos show more than a million word can say, and cant wait to see the final product.

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Power steering, air conditioning? dang man - you're gonna go soft driving that.

You need air con here at the moment it been 40 to 45 degrees Celsius here which is 110 Fahrenheit or so
 
You need air con here at the moment it been 40 to 45 degrees Celsius here which is 110 Fahrenheit or so

I know this story


I call those "I'm taking the H3 Hummer" days.... that said, part of why I painted mine as I did and built it like I did was to make it as bearable as possible in hot weather (exhaust wrapped, on outside of frame, spray on insulation on the floor - both sides, tan paint, light colored top and light colored bikini top. I also have seat coolers - basically it's a seat pad that has tubes in it and it pumps ice-water through the tubes... it's pretty amazing how well it works).... worst case, I have my cooling vest I use for racing...


but still, would Crocodile Dundee have A/C? I think my image of Australians has been tarnished (even more so then what I see on MCM).
 
Funny thing is the ute I have now is the first vehicle that I've had air con in. all of our old work trucks never had it and I still drive around most days without using it
 

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