I hear ya! Even that STILL looks like a mess to work around. argh.OMG!! That makes me want to pull the whole front end off to do ANY work on my 3FE. Hate that engine bay.->
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- #23
Speaking of making room to work... Seeing as how I've never worked on the front axle of a 60 series before now i can't positively say having it apart made going through the knuckle/spindle/hub any easier, but it couldn't have hurt.
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- #24
-Front axle refresh is complete
-new calipers and pads & rotors turned
-new drums and wheel cylinders
-all rubber brake lines replaced & system bled
-new radiator hoses
-new belts
-60 front clip installed
-at least four different shades of white paint
I'm going to do some fairly intensive touchup work on the front, may end up rattle canning the whole nose if I find a color that matches the doors well.
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- #25
Great progress!
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- #27
New side clearance lights front and rear also installed. At this point all exterior lights work
I didn't realize the support between the hood latch and the lower part of the core support were not common between the 60 & 62, so I'm stuck waiting on parts or else I would already have it together.
I decided to go ahead and drive it sans grill so I could take it to an exhaust shop (the muffler is falling apart & there is definitely a problem with fumes). It drove great much better than before.
It looks like grill, exhaust and windshield will happen in the next week or so and then it should be good drive it regularly.
Next task after that will be looking into the gauges as none of them light up w/ the headlights & the oil pressure gauge is inop.
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I drove my FJ62 to work one day without the grille and front bumper. The guard at the gate asked me "When are you going to bring the rest of your vehicle to work?"
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2 things to look at if all your dash lights are out. Dimmer switch, and brake lights (dash and brake lights share a fuse, all your brake lights are dead... so are your dash lights. Safety feature of sorts on most older vehicles) just a thought.
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- #30
Thank you. This is dead on. I went out and pulled the dimmer and it appears to be the culprit. Using an ohmmeter it shows no continuity. I used a jumper between the contacts where it plugs into the dash harness and the gauges lit up. Now I just need to find a replacement.
Go on to ebay and search land cruiser mirror glass 1989 For 1987-1990 Toyota Land Cruiser Driver Side Flat Power Door Mirror Glass Lens | eBay
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- #32
- Muffler replaced, much more pleasant.
- tested 4WD & hub functions, all correct.
- Drove it up a nearby mountain road to see how it handle long grades (no problem)
- tested 4WD & hub functions, all correct.
- Drove it up a nearby mountain road to see how it handle long grades (no problem)
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- #33
I think I'm getting close on lighting, but have a few new questions...
in the small rectangular strip below the tachometer I can tell there is a seatbelt warning / reminder, but it does not illuminate. At the same time I can tell there is a light in the right end of the strip that illuminates withe the other lights that come on when the ignition is initially switched on, but before starting the motor. Is there supposed to be anything in that far right end of the strip?
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- #34
and some more questions ...
What is to the left of the check engine indicator?
How should the lights in shifter function?
-The AT oil temp light comes on the ignition is on, but goes out with the battery, brake and check engine lights in the cluster when the motor is started. (seems right)
-The ATP lamp is always out. (seems wrong)
What is to the left of the check engine indicator?
How should the lights in shifter function?
-The AT oil temp light comes on the ignition is on, but goes out with the battery, brake and check engine lights in the cluster when the motor is started. (seems right)
-The ATP lamp is always out. (seems wrong)
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- #36
When I bought the truck neither of the rear windows worked. For some reason the metal channels at the bottom were missing. Since the channels are NLA I had to swap in a replacement assembly
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- #37
Before you posted this I cut a replacement mirror that worked, but was very rough. I could get the basic shape pretty easily, but the rounding of the corners required a lot of "adjustment" and I chipped the edges pretty badly. when the one from ebay came in I swapped it in, much better than my attempt.
BTW the mirror from that link is double sided, so it would also replace the passenger side (as long as you are ok with it not being convex.
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mattressking
10 digits to freedom
Is your frame really that clean and black after just powerwashing?
I'm a weebit jealous.
I'm a weebit jealous.
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- #39
power wash, & rustoleum industrial enamel (rattle can)
At this point I'm trying to leave everything I touch in better condition than when I started in the hopes of putting together a solid driver. In the long run I have some big hopes, but it will take some time to save up the $ to bring those to fruition.
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- #40
I've been driving it a little more lately and it became clear that the starter needed some attention. I would guess that about 50% of the time I would need to persuade it turn over (I found hitting it with a breaker bar or pipe seemed to work). As much fun as that was, I ordered the parts at my somewhat local dealer and rebuilt it. Removing the starter was definitely the most difficult part of what in my opinion was a one banana job.
I also had a whining noise from the transmission that sounded similar to hydraulics that were very cold. I pulled the pan and found what looked to me to be a very clogged filter. Once replaced the noise was gone.
And today I pulled the crossbars/ towers from the gutters so I can remove and replace the sealant in the gutters.
I also had a whining noise from the transmission that sounded similar to hydraulics that were very cold. I pulled the pan and found what looked to me to be a very clogged filter. Once replaced the noise was gone.
And today I pulled the crossbars/ towers from the gutters so I can remove and replace the sealant in the gutters.