- Thread starter
- #41
I started on the fenders today. Here are some pics of one of the frames roughly where it will be mounted.
Barefoot Expedition Trailer Build (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter barefoot
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #42
A little more progress today...
I added the tub support for the fenders and put some cardboard on as a skin mockup. When the trailer is "done" those worn out stock MTRs will be swapped out for tires that match the jeep which are nearly 3" taller. The fenders will be bolted to the tub.
I added the tub support for the fenders and put some cardboard on as a skin mockup. When the trailer is "done" those worn out stock MTRs will be swapped out for tires that match the jeep which are nearly 3" taller. The fenders will be bolted to the tub.
It's looking really good!
~Daniel
Sent from deep in the mountains of Honduras using only sticks and rocks.
~Daniel
Sent from deep in the mountains of Honduras using only sticks and rocks.
- Thread starter
- #44
Both fenders mocked up.
Great looking fenders. Are you going to fill in the bottoms on the back side? I actually like the look with it open in the mockup though.
RSHARPfzj80
Appalachia Cruisers
Not that my .02 matters but the fenders made the whole trailer. Awesome build . Keep up the killer work.
- Thread starter
- #47
Thanks gents, the trailer itself is my interpretation of a cross between rezarf's and the bantam t3 I used to own. The shape and placement of the fenders mirrors the rear fender flares on my Jeep.
In an unexpected twist the fenders have turned into the biggest pain of building the trailer as I was unable to make the bends I wanted without mangling the tubing, so I ended up farming out the bending to a local high end fab shop. They suggested and I agreed to using 1/8" tube, so they are heavy, but very strong.
I mounted one side, now I just need to skin it.
I had not planned to mounting cans here, but it would give me an easy way to mount 20 gallons.
In an unexpected twist the fenders have turned into the biggest pain of building the trailer as I was unable to make the bends I wanted without mangling the tubing, so I ended up farming out the bending to a local high end fab shop. They suggested and I agreed to using 1/8" tube, so they are heavy, but very strong.
I mounted one side, now I just need to skin it.
I had not planned to mounting cans here, but it would give me an easy way to mount 20 gallons.
Nice idea with the fuel cans.
~Daniel
Sent from deep in the mountains of Honduras using only sticks and rocks.
~Daniel
Sent from deep in the mountains of Honduras using only sticks and rocks.
- Thread starter
- #49
These fenders continue to consume a tremendous amount of time. Today I filled a couple of the mounting holes I put in the wrong place earlier on, ground them flat and redrilled in the correct location. This allowed me to install the remaining nutserts (3/8-16 4 per side). Then I skinned one of the fenders w/ 14 ga sheet and mounted it. I still need to spend some quality time with a flap disk and the fender, but it is done enough to see that they should work the way I had hoped.
- Thread starter
- #51
Another day, another fender.
barefoot said:
Very cool! Are you going to paint it, powder coat or?
~Daniel
Sent from deep in the mountains of Honduras using only sticks and rocks.
- Thread starter
- #53
It will probably have to be paint so I can use body filler in some places.
Today's project was making the tailgate latch mechanism. I installed a nutsert in the tailgate to accept a stainless steel spring plunger. I decided to weld the nutsert before collapsing it as it the force of the plunger's threads are opposite of what it would normally see Then I drilled a pocket in the trailer tub to accept the tip of the plunger. To make this (slam-able?) with one hand I added a ramp made of some scrap on to the back edge of the tub.
Today's project was making the tailgate latch mechanism. I installed a nutsert in the tailgate to accept a stainless steel spring plunger. I decided to weld the nutsert before collapsing it as it the force of the plunger's threads are opposite of what it would normally see Then I drilled a pocket in the trailer tub to accept the tip of the plunger. To make this (slam-able?) with one hand I added a ramp made of some scrap on to the back edge of the tub.
MaddBaggins
Remember the KnightRider!
This is a great build! Good job 
- Thread starter
- #55
Test of gas springs..
http://i555.photobucket.com/albums/jj476/bfrpb/a7e32f34.mp4
http://i555.photobucket.com/albums/jj476/bfrpb/a7e32f34.mp4
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barefoot said:
Looks great! What were the specs on those shocks cause I still have to get some. Thanks!
~Daniel
Sent from deep in the mountains of Honduras using only sticks and rocks.
- Thread starter
- #57
Adventure Copan said:
Mcmaster part # 4138T625
250 lbs
29.49 extended
12.8 stroke
http://www.mcmaster.com/#gas-springs/=gw6xpa
barefoot said:
Thanks!
~Daniel
Sent from deep in the mountains of Honduras using only sticks and rocks.
- Thread starter
- #59
I removed the rtt so I can finish fabrication w/o getting it filthy (or lighting it on fire.) Once it was out of the way I built a mount for an offset umbrella I found severely discounted at the end of las summer. Then I went to work on the battery boxes, fuel can storage, and tongue box.
I decided I did not want the batteries enclosed with anything else so am going to mount them in cheap plastic boxes meant for boat batteries and in an attempt to keep a low center of gravity mount them as low as possible. I built trays out of angle iron and expanded metal to hold the bottoms of the boxes even with the bottom of the frame. Each tray mounts independently, but they are tied together by the fuel can mount which mounts to the top of both trays. I also picked up a plastic tongue box at tractor supply. Originally I had planned on building one out of steel but this was the perfect size/shape and I won't lose any sleep over this one being pelted with gravel where I think painted steel would be chipped and dented constantly.
Even though only the bottom of the fuel can rack is done, using the cheap red can pictured instead of Jerry cans is becoming more appealing all the time.
I decided I did not want the batteries enclosed with anything else so am going to mount them in cheap plastic boxes meant for boat batteries and in an attempt to keep a low center of gravity mount them as low as possible. I built trays out of angle iron and expanded metal to hold the bottoms of the boxes even with the bottom of the frame. Each tray mounts independently, but they are tied together by the fuel can mount which mounts to the top of both trays. I also picked up a plastic tongue box at tractor supply. Originally I had planned on building one out of steel but this was the perfect size/shape and I won't lose any sleep over this one being pelted with gravel where I think painted steel would be chipped and dented constantly.
Even though only the bottom of the fuel can rack is done, using the cheap red can pictured instead of Jerry cans is becoming more appealing all the time.
1Fine40
Rust Buster
That is a very nice build you have going! Half the fun is designing, and it looks like you have done great with that part...
Cheers!
Cheers!
