Bad temp garage?

[mousecruizer]

Hey yall, I'm currently doing a coolant flush on my new to me fj60, it would overheat when driving but idling is fine. I changed the thermostat to the 190deg one and as the engine is running at idle these are the temps.

I assume the temp gauge is incorrect? It's slightly concerning me that it's in the upper range of the gauge but I read on here that they are known to be incorrect, the truck had been running about 45 mins at idle at this point with these temps. I haven't written out that it couldn't be the clutch fan still because I haven't driven it yet. But besides that could this just be a bad temp sensor?

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

Take it on a drive about 60 mph for 15 mins or so and stop and measure temps with gun again. If the temp need keeps rising at higher speeds I would not do it for too long

 

[Godwin]

Temp gauge looks normal.

 

[Lead Head]

Temp gauge is normal.

Clutch fan should roar on a cold start when you rev the vehicle. If the vehicle gets warm (i.e., gauge reading near the red) you should hear the fan roaring as well. The fans on these trucks are very loud.

 

[3_puppies]

when the antiboil was drained, did you open the rear block drain? the rear can get plugged up, the temp sender is near the rear of the head

 

[mousecruizer]

Hey yall, I'm currently doing a coolant flush on my new to me fj60, it would overheat when driving but idling is fine. I changed the thermostat to the 190deg one and as the engine is running at idle these are the temps. View attachment 4203268
View attachment 4203269View attachment 4203270

I assume the temp gauge is incorrect? It's slightly concerning me that it's in the upper range of the gauge but I read on here that they are known to be incorrect, the truck had been running about 45 mins at idle at this point with these temps. I haven't written out that it couldn't be the clutch fan still because I haven't driven it yet. But besides that could this just be a bad temp sensor?
View attachment 4203271

 

[mousecruizer]

Just took it for a drive with the distilled water in there. It's hovering at that temperature now and I check with the IR thermometer and temps stayed relatively at 178-182 mark after driving for 30 mins.

 

[mousecruizer]

when the antiboil was drained, did you open the rear block drain? the rear can get plugged up, the temp sender is near the rear of the head

No I haven't, do you recommend I should? Still need to cycle it a couple more times. Is it possible to flush the block with a garden hose while having that drain open? Or is there a different recommended procedure to flush the block?

 

[Pighead]

Is it possible to flush the block with a garden hose while having that drain open?

That's how I do it. Heater valves open, even run the engine a bit.

 

[3_puppies]

No I haven't, do you recommend I should? Still need to cycle it a couple more times. Is it possible to flush the block with a garden hose while having that drain open? Or is there a different recommended procedure to flush the block?

Yes, like @Pighead stated above
you may need to run a wire into the drain on the block to get it to flow out, as it may be plugged

 

[mousecruizer]

Yes, like @Pighead stated above
you may need to run a wire into the drain on the block to get it to flow out, as it may be plugged

Actually did this... after unscrewing it water wouldn't even drain, had to check if I did the right unscrew. Nothing came out until I stuck a pick inside the hole and it started flowing straight coolant gunk all down my arm and back

 

[CruiserTrash]

@3_puppies alluded to it above - the temp sender for the dash gauge is towards the rear of the head. Temps will be different there than at the radiator. In any case I'll echo the above and say the needle on your gauge looks great. Sounds like you've flushed the crap out of everything, so reassemble and fill with the proper mixture of coolant & distilled water to your taste or just use the 50/50 off the shelf stuff. Just don't mix different colors of coolant or it can congeal.

Side note: you have a vacuum leak in this photo:

All the vac lines I'm seeing look original. If so, I'd get appx 30' of new 3.5mm vac line from Toyota (it fits the best) and replace all of it. They sell it in bulk I think in 1200mm lengths. Replace one line at a time and you can't mess it up, although it's worth following along in the manual to make sure a previous owner didn't mess up a line or two. I'd also check the larger diameter PCV line and PCV grommet. The 2F feels much better when you get rid of vacuum leaks, especially ones that affect your spark advance.

 

[mousecruizer]

@3_puppies alluded to it above - the temp sender for the dash gauge is towards the rear of the head. Temps will be different there than at the radiator. In any case I'll echo the above and say the needle on your gauge looks great. Sounds like you've flushed the crap out of everything, so reassemble and fill with the proper mixture of coolant & distilled water to your taste or just use the 50/50 off the shelf stuff. Just don't mix different colors of coolant or it can congeal.

Side note: you have a vacuum leak in this photo:
View attachment 4211289

All the vac lines I'm seeing look original. If so, I'd get appx 30' of new 3.5mm vac line from Toyota (it fits the best) and replace all of it. They sell it in bulk I think in 1200mm lengths. Replace one line at a time and you can't mess it up, although it's worth following along in the manual to make sure a previous owner didn't mess up a line or two. I'd also check the larger diameter PCV line and PCV grommet. The 2F feels much better when you get rid of vacuum leaks, especially ones that affect your spark advance.

The temp sits a bit lower now as well though, unfortunately it has developed a radiator leak . Its actually super interesting you mentioned the vacuum leak. I purposely removed that one but did install it back after putting everything together, it has started to run a bit rough and before it was running great. I do hear a vacuum leak now and the idle speed is horrible, it's died on me a couple times just sitting at idle, roughly 400rpms or so. You mentioned replacing all the lines, I plan on doing a desmog to get rid of all that unsightly sphagetti, should I replace all of them then or now?

 

[bhsdriller]

Don't waste the money now if you're going to remove most of it later but also depends on timeframe.
If it will be a year from now and you want to drive it a lot do it now

 

[CruiserTrash]

The temp sits a bit lower now as well though, unfortunately it has developed a radiator leak . Its actually super interesting you mentioned the vacuum leak. I purposely removed that one but did install it back after putting everything together, it has started to run a bit rough and before it was running great. I do hear a vacuum leak now and the idle speed is horrible, it's died on me a couple times just sitting at idle, roughly 400rpms or so. You mentioned replacing all the lines, I plan on doing a desmog to get rid of all that unsightly sphagetti, should I replace all of them then or now?

The truck has a vacuum leak right now so I see the options as: keep running it as is and suffer through whatever damage lugging the motor or mis-timed spark gets you, replace visibly compromised hoses and see where you're at, replace them all, or just stop driving it until some future planned work that includes vacuum hoses. It would take probably $50 in Toyota hoses and 30 minutes of time to replace them all, so factor that into the equation.

What's your idle vacuum right now?

 

[CruiserTrash]

should I replace all of them then or now?

Also, you may want to go through the Emissions FSM to see which vacuum systems you want to include in "all". Several of those things are beneficial and have nothing to do with "smog" as we think of it. Distributor vent for one example.

 

[mousecruizer]

The truck has a vacuum leak right now so I see the options as: keep running it as is and suffer through whatever damage lugging the motor or mis-timed spark gets you, replace visibly compromised hoses and see where you're at, replace them all, or just stop driving it until some future planned work that includes vacuum hoses. It would take probably $50 in Toyota hoses and 30 minutes of time to replace them all, so factor that into the equation.

What's your idle vacuum right now?

Not familiar with that term. Idle vacuum? If you're talking about the truck on a warm Texas morning with no choke, cold starting it flails around the 200-300 until I pull the choke then it runs better at 500. Still learning about these so I appreciate your patience and input.

 

[CruiserTrash]

Not familiar with that term. Idle vacuum? If you're talking about the truck on a warm Texas morning with no choke, cold starting it flails around the 200-300 until I pull the choke then it runs better at 500. Still learning about these so I appreciate your patience and input.

I think you're talking about rpm. Running it at 200-300rpm is bad for the engine. That's probably true for 500rpm but less so.

An internal combustion engine is an air pump, is sucks air in the intake and pushes it out through the exhaust. Warm the truck up to full operating temperature and let it idle (should be 650-750). Connect a vacuum gauge to the manifold. What number does the gauge say? That's your idle vacuum (or vacuum at warm idle). Vacuum tells a story.

 

[mousecruizer]

I think you're talking about rpm. Running it at 200-300rpm is bad for the engine. That's probably true for 500rpm but less so.

An internal combustion engine is an air pump, is sucks air in the intake and pushes it out through the exhaust. Warm the truck up to full operating temperature and let it idle (should be 650-750). Connect a vacuum gauge to the manifold. What number does the gauge say? That's your idle vacuum (or vacuum at warm idle). Vacuum tells a story.

I think I've got a bigger problem than just the idle now, the forbidden milkshake has appeared. Drained the oil, just frothy oil water came out. Bigger issue now.

 

[cliffrdavis]

Crap that sucks. Did it overheat bad before you did all this work? May have a blown head gasket.