Backup light switch

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JohnnyC

昔は TLCA2231 Order of the Pinion Shaft (OoPS)
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Jun 17, 2005
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Sire John @ UpState Ny & Wells Me
On to the next minor issue... that will most likely prove to be a big pita

I have a 74' fj40... tranny is from a later 4 speed attached to a 3 speed transfer

I do not know exactly what year the tranny is from and had not crawled under yet... thinking it was a 76'

The problem I have been having is that the backup lights are sometimes staying on... (they do cone on when put in reverse) but... not staying on all the time... I had the truck running and checked the backup lights were off ... soooo I drove home and the lights upon entering the driveway were on now

Question 1: do you figure just a bad switch?

Question 2: are all backup switches for the 74+ 4 speeds the same for pre 81 think this is yes... just confirming

Question 3: can it be accessed from under the truck? Or am I relegated to breaking a bunch of tranny cover bolts to access from the top?
 
#1, my first guess is yes, sticky switch.
#2, I'm not sure.
#3, it would be a tight squeeze to get to the switch without pulling the tranny hump. Probably doable though.
 
Four speed switches the same until 8/80.
First guess would be the switch but could possibly be in the harness close to the switch where the two wires are next to each other.

Never dealt with changing one out installed. Going tackle the 4WD light on my 70. Looks like it's doable. Wire broke off the old one.
 
Picture from SOR indicates 1974 to July 1980.

Later model transmissions thread into the top, so unlikely to remove without access through the tranny hump.

74-80_4spd-big.jpg
 
A stubby wrench really helps.

On the two I have done on the truck, I have only needed the wrench to crack the switch loose and snug it up. The rest was just finger work, and a little cussing.

I have a couple dozen good used switches if you're interested.
 
If it's like the one pictured above, It can be swapped out from underneath without removing the tranny cover. It's a tight squeeze and requires 2 wrenches to do it, but it only takes about 5 minutes. Put one wrench inline with the switch spanning the flats, then put the other wrench on the handle of the first one as leverage to crack it loose and tighten it. I used a 12" adjustable, because the jaws were deep enough to get to the hex part of the switch, and the handle was long enough to extend past the transfer case to get the second wrench on.

I replaced mine with a new one, but when I took it out I found out the problem was just a broken solder connection.
 
What might work as well is a high quality flare nut wrench. I say high quality is I own a cheap set of flare nut wrenches from Harbor Freight. Removing brake lines I had to pitch the wrench with a vise grip. Otherwise the wrench just expanded.

I do like the idea of a stubby wrench. Might work on the vacuum shifter switch. Boxed end on the switch and use a large wrench as a cheater in the open end.
 
I do not have a stubby ... but... it would be well worth it if I can attack from underneath

thank you all for the knowledge and insight !!!

It will be a little bit before I tackle this ... just way to stinking cold at 11pm when I get the time for cruiser play :meh:

Thanks again
 
Might be worth hitting the switch with some contact cleaner (just to rule out wire connection issues), and checking wiring from it.

I replaced the switch on my '77 a couple of years ago, and ended up removing the tranny hump, since I was rebuilding the heater at the time. I remember trying to get at the switch from underneath, but I couldn't get it. I recall it took some torque to get mine out.

Hope you can get it from underneath! Removing with tranny hump was a pain in my truck.

I've got the old switch still, if you need a 2nd / 3rd confirmation on wrench size.
 
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