Anyone recommend a brake and clutch fluid bleeder tool that works good with 80 series?

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A guy at my work said this SP tools one is worth look at. It it usable with 80 series brake and clutch systems esp if combined with one the SP Tools brake fluid reservoir re-filler?

Before I go big and throw $2k (aussie dollars) at a clutch job I want to re-new the fluid first and make sure that the hydraulic aspects are ok.
 
Used this to bleed brakes, cost around 20 Usd or so. A vacuum/venturi bleeder could work obviously. Can use same principle to change diff/manual transmission oil.

Garden pump sprayer + gauge connected to a 2 inch fernco end cap. Drilled it, put a barb fitting through with + nut + washers. It only needs to hold 10 psi or so but put cable ties as a safety precaution to prevent explosive disassembly. Obviously do not tighten the clamps on the end clamp too much or you'd break the reservoir. The clamp fits snugly under the lip of the master cylinder - a happy coincidence.

Makes it easy and quick to pump 2 liters+ of brake fluid. Haven't tried bleeding the clutch with the same method - just measure the diameter of the reservoir and purchase the appropriate rubber end cap.

Not my idea btw, found it here previously on IH8MUD so kudos to the originator.

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I have been looking at these for a while. It seems like some of them apply a vacuum (like the first post) and some of them apply pressure (like the second post). Am I understanding that correctly?

And if so, is there an advantage to using one technique or the other?
 
I bought a pressure bleeder for a much newer car that required it - the FSM for that car said brake bleeding had to be done either with a pressure bleeder or that zillion dollar system only dealerships have. I use it on everything I own, now, because it makes brake bleeding almost effortless, and it's a one-man approach. I have none of the issues I see across this forum, and almost every post where someone is having trouble with brake bleeding, they're not using a pressure bleeder.

I have no experience bleeding a clutch with the pressure bleeder, so I can't speak to that.
 
That one looks nicer but I've never liked the vacuum ones. If the lines aren't completely sealed they can pull air from the connection points which will look like air bubbles in the line coming out in reality it isn't.

The pressure bleeders are nice I have one for the 80
 
Motive brake bleeder,
x100 on the Motive pressure bleeder.

Yes it's expensive, yes you have to buy a new adaptor for other vehicles, yes it's 1000% worth it.

It makes bleeding brakes a 1 person 10 minute job.

These are what I purchased for my 80 Series.

-Rob
 
i have both; vacuum and pressure.

the Motiv pressure bleeder is good for your typical bleed job. i don't like filling it w/ fluid but instead use it dry. disconnecting to top off the reservoir. otherwise i have made some huge messes

the vacuum bleeder from Harbor Freight i like to use to suck the reservoir dry, or extract fluids from other things. i've used it for brakes but it does pull air from around the bleeder threads and that introduces micro bubbles which makes it hard to tell when to stop.
 
x100 on the Motive pressure bleeder.

Yes it's expensive, yes you have to buy a new adaptor for other vehicles, yes it's 1000% worth it.

It makes bleeding brakes a 1 person 10 minute job.

These are what I purchased for my 80 Series.

-Rob
how well did that cap work, the one i have can be hit and miss
 
Motive 0101 universal power bleeder in combination with the AGM BA10 brake master cylinder adaptor. Look no futher

 
Motive 0101 universal power bleeder in combination with the AGM BA10 brake master cylinder adaptor. Look no futher


The BA10 looks like what I use. Save some money and purchase a garden tank sprayer from wherever you want, and clear tubing and hose connectors from the hardware store. A pressure gauge on the tank is unnecessary.

Dump a quart of brake fluid into the tank, hook up the bleeder cap and make sure that it is tight (you'll only make this mistake once). Pump up the tank a few times and watch as the fluid fills the hose then the MC. Crack open a bleeder and begin flushing the system. Work your way around the 4 corners. Periodically check the fluid in the hose and MC and ad pressure as needed. Once the brakes are bled the MC may still be full plus the tank is pressurized. Keep the adapter connected and tight. Release the tank pressure and open up one of the caliper bleeders then bleed off the excessive fluid by pressing the brake pedal until the fluid level is down to the MAX line.
 
The BA10 looks like what I use. Save some money and purchase a garden tank sprayer from wherever you want, and clear tubing and hose connectors from the hardware store. A pressure gauge on the tank is unnecessary.

The pressure gauge is used to readily indicate pressure loss. If you pump the gauge to 15 PSI and walk away, come back after an hour, it should still read 15 PSI. It’s just an extra tool to know your system is good.
 
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Question: I am new to the power or pressure bleeder. Does this eliminate needing someone to pump the brake pedal, among other advantages?

Yes, makes this an easier 1 person job.
 
I bought one similar to the motive cap, and also use a cheap garden spray bottle from the hardware store. Get a big sprayer so it has a good reserve of pressure.
Definitely makes bleeding an easy, one man job.
You just need to remember to top up the fluid regularly if not pumping fluid in
 
Motive 0101 universal power bleeder in combination with the AGM BA10 brake master cylinder adaptor. Look no futher

Thats the cap i used you need to be careful about getting installed properly or its make a mess
 
The ABS system poses no issue with using this method? Just pressurize, open the furthest bleeder screw, and work your way closer, correct? TIA,
 
I also really, really like my Motive Power Bleeder. Should have bought it a decade sooner. No issues using it with ABS, either.

The Motive Power Fill is also quite nice. I use it for filling diffs with gear oil and refilling the transmission. I clean it with brake cleaner when changing the fluid type.
 
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