Anyone mount ARB 2500 Awning to stock roof rack? (1 Viewer)

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No, you likely won't be able to. 100 series had a few different roof racks, but I believe all of them have to be removed to remove / install cross bar. If you can somehow slip the channel nut inside the rail and get the Rago mount attached, I think the amount of time and hassle for that will outweigh removing the rack. I took my cross bars off when I installed the Rago mount, so I can just take one side off if I need to move the Rago mount back to my 4runner. I use my own cross bars for tents, that have mounts that stay on truck permenant, so no issue with no crossbars for daily driving.

The end caps pop up pretty easy, and take care of the torx head bolts when removing, and then the whole rack should slide forward or rear to release from the captive center post.

Thanks bro, I didn’t realize the center was captive. I’m just trying to limit the amount of items I remove and then have to reseal to be sure and keep it all from leaking.

Did you touch up your Torx screws with any silicone or anything?

I have a set of Maxtrax mounted on the drivers side with the width of my cross bars is determined by them.
So I’ll just be removing enough on each end of the pass side rail to get the channel nuts into the ends and then button it all back together.

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@Greenbean The center post is kind of like a picture frame slot, narrow at one end, wide at the other. So you slide the rack unit forward or back to unsecure it. It's very simple after that to remove cross bars and get the Rago stuff on.

You can put a little silicone on the bolt threads if you are worried about leaks, I don't. I just take my time alternating loosening / tightening the bolts for each post. The torx is easy to strip.
 
@TXLX100 Those look like they may be the holy grail solution - only question is does the awning sit high enough to clear the doors opening? My rhino mounts essentially put the awning on the roof rail and it clears the doors, but not by much.
 
@TXLX100 Those look like they may be the holy grail solution - only question is does the awning sit high enough to clear the doors opening? My rhino mounts essentially put the awning on the roof rail and it clears the doors, but not by much.

Yes, And the unit is slotted for up / down and in/out. As shown, this is on lowest height setting. I use the bracket next to it to install metal cross bars for my tent, and it provides the height needed for the bottom of the tent to clear the awning bracket (if the tent is centered on the truck).
 
I bought the ARB L brackets and plan to mount it similarly to this pic I found on the web of a 4 runner.

I wanted to post about my ARB awning purchase experience also. Amazon fail! I tried to order from Amazon on 3 occasions. All 3 never made it me. The free shipping was USPS and was noted as damaged and sent back before it got to me.

I ended up ordering from 4wheelparts.com (ARB lists them as online distributor) and it was actually a little cheaper than Amazon. It was shipped UPS and the package looked like hell when it got here, but the awning survived and its a miracle the loose parts didn't fall out.



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Those are ARB L brackets? I got the exact ones for my foxwing at lowes for 3$ a piece.



I bought the ARB L brackets and plan to mount it similarly to this pic I found on the web of a 4 runner.

I wanted to post about my ARB awning purchase experience also. Amazon fail! I tried to order from Amazon on 3 occasions. All 3 never made it me. The free shipping was USPS and was noted as damaged and sent back before it got to me.

I ended up ordering from 4wheelparts.com (ARB lists them as online distributor) and it was actually a little cheaper than Amazon. It was shipped UPS and the package looked like hell when it got here, but the awning survived and its a miracle the loose parts didn't fall out.



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I almost went that route but wasn’t sure with my Maxtrax determining the width between my cross bars if they would have needed up to narrow.

However at least you don’t have to remove anything that could possibly leak water in the future.

I’m hoping to break my drivers side down and get these Rago mounts on this Saturday!

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Hmmm not sure how I've never seen this thread.

I have mounted the 2500 a couple different ways. currently i'm using two plates and longer bolts to ''sandwich'' the stock roof rail. This works perfect for me since I park my truck in my garage and need every centimeter of clearance I can get. I also currently do not need an aftermarket roof rack and cant justify the money to simply mount my awning.

here is a clean shot of how I've mounted it. I basically took two arb awning brackets that I had laying around and hacked off the side with the 3 holes. I used those as my plates. zero noises or rattles.


The second photo below (stock bumpers) is back when I simply used the arb brackets and drilled the factory crossbars, and used home depot hardware to mount it with large thick washers to help distribute the load. I was always concerned about this method not holding up (ie the thin cross bars ripping and my awning falling off).


Third photo is an old one, but shows the current mounting set up. sits very tight to the roof which is great, but still leaves plenty of room to unzip and pull out (that's what she said)

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@Tanner H

I’m digging the sandwich plate method.

Any more info on this? how long those bolts are? Three per each side?

Im digging this idea man!!!

I have my Rago mounts but I’m going to be honest. If I can mount the awning w/out removing any bolts and possibly making a water leak I might try it.

UPS just confirmed my ARB is at the house but I can’t do any work on it until this Sunday. I can score ARB awning mounts from Amazon Prime, lol...
 
man sorry I forgot the length on the bolts. I know I measured a few times, and even bought two different lengths just in case. I used 3 bolts on each plate to make sure it stayed put.
 
@Tanner H Did you use any type of spacer between the awning and the rail? It seems once tightened the awning sits slightly tilted up, guess thats ok right?
 
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@Tanner H Did you use any type of spacer between the awning and the rail? It seems once tightened the awning sits slightly tilted up, guess thats ok right?

Yeah mine tilts up for the time being. trying to think of a bracket or something that keeps it straight but haven't really though of anything yet, but then I forget about it haha. I'm thinking about a u-bracket that goes from inside, then under and up so the awning rests against that flat metal, rather than the curved roof rail.

I used it this weekend and works great.
 
So where can you find a good selection of stainless steel square headed bolts? In about 2.5-3.0” length?

I’ve been to two hardware stores and the specialty bolt and screw place and they are slim pickings, I picked up a couple standard sized stainless bolts yesterday to find the 11mm hex head won’t slide into the track.

Back to square one!
 
So where can you find a good selection of stainless steel square headed bolts? In about 2.5-3.0” length?

I’ve been to two hardware stores and the specialty bolt and screw place and they are slim pickings, I picked up a couple standard sized stainless bolts yesterday to find the 11mm hex head won’t slide into the track.

Back to square one!

couldn't find stainless, but, McMaster-Carr
 
Well forgive me gents, I was really wussing out there and just afraid I was going to break a cover or something no longer made. Especially after my rear wing went airborne on the freeway on it's own and me getting a bolt stuck in one of those rivnuts back there. I haven't addressed it as I need to dremel the washer off and grab the rivnut part with ViceGrips.

Then I realized, you know bud if you break a cover to one of the factory rack points you could probably explain your way into getting an aftermarket rack!

So I went after it with my pry tools and Torx set. Thanks a ton to @Tanner H It's not that big of a deal after all.

I am excited now as the Rago solution seems to be the Cats Meow here! I am not finished as I need to head to work but I will get this finished in the coming days.

I'll also add the finished pics to this post.

I really wanted to use my MaxTrax on the roof as well with my Yakima 23H Mighty Mount solution and turns out they won't fit using all four pins, however I am going to use the front pins and just use a small cargo strap to keep them down on the rear cross bar.

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Here is how I did mine (obviously I had not tightened the bolts yet). Similar to how others did it. ARB brackets with a generic hardware store plate on the bottom. The ARB brackets are nice and sturdy.
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