Another horror story. Need help from the experts (1 Viewer)

Joined
Jun 21, 2020
Messages
18
Location
Arizona
Alright so I’ll try and keep this as brief but also as detailed as possible. If you’ve read my old threads you might be familiar

I have a de smogged bone stock 83 60 series. 270k miles. Overheated on my first road trip. Was told it was a cracked head. Had the whole head resurfaced plus a valve job. Took it out and installed myself. Upon first test drive was experiencing the same issue, overheating. White smoke out the back. Coolant in cylinders 2 and 6

fast forward few months later. Finally got around to giving it another shot. Replaced the t stat and flushed the coolant system added some block seal and drove it for a couple days. Ran fine. No overheating. Flushed it again and added fresh coolant, changed the oil. Put about 130 miles on it all together with no overheating issues.

Was driving back to Arizona from San Diego figuring I’d solved the issue. At least for a while. About 20 miles in experienced significant power loss. Didn’t start to over heat until I pulled over. And upon further inspection found coolant literally spraying out of cylinder 1.

checked the compression, cylinder one is the only one with decent pressure at 125. Cylinder 2 at 120. And the rest of then completely dead with less than 30 each.
Now she obviously won’t turn over. Don’t know if it’s the head. The gasket. Cracked block. Or cooling system issue. I’m lost.

So I remove the head again and dig into it. Do I bite the bullet and just send the whole car to a shop and get it all taken care of. Do I look for a new motor? Any places in San Diego you would recommend.
(P.s Also something to be considered. Was having a waxy silicone like substance come out of my radiator when the engine would get hot and coolant would boil over. Have no idea what it was or is. Still. First saw it when I initially overheated about 6 months ago. )

HELP!
 

tmxmotorsports

SILVER Star
Joined
Jul 3, 2016
Messages
2,051
Location
OBX Nc
You say you were told it had a cracked head but had that head resurfaced and a valve job makes no sense to me what about the cracked head?
 
Joined
Nov 13, 2016
Messages
34
Location
N.Illinois
Is this the one that was possibly machined out of spec.( over machined / too much off) and causing the head bolts to bottom out before sealing the head gasket??/ Or was that someone else's dilemma??
 
Joined
Jun 21, 2020
Messages
18
Location
Arizona
You say you were told it had a cracked head but had that head resurfaced and a valve job makes no sense to me what about the cracked head?
I took the head to a machine shop. They said that there weren’t any cracks, they machined it, re surfaced it. The magnafluxed it And did a valve job before I reninstalled it. I figured the shop was just assuming it was the head because they didn’t take the head off before diagnosing it. Just trying to take advantage considering I was stuck in the middle of nowhere.
 
Joined
Jun 21, 2020
Messages
18
Location
Arizona
Is this the one that was possibly machined out of spec.( over machined / too much off) and causing the head bolts to bottom out before sealing the head gasket??/ Or was that someone else's dilemma??
Not my dilemma I don’t believe. All the head bolts seem tight and I re torqued them as well
 
Joined
Jun 21, 2020
Messages
18
Location
Arizona
Alright so I’ll try and keep this as brief but also as detailed as possible. If you’ve read my old threads you might be familiar

I have a de smogged bone stock 83 60 series. 270k miles. Overheated on my first road trip. Was told it was a cracked head. Had the whole head resurfaced plus a valve job. Took it out and installed myself. Upon first test drive was experiencing the same issue, overheating. White smoke out the back. Coolant in cylinders 2 and 6

fast forward few months later. Finally got around to giving it another shot. Replaced the t stat and flushed the coolant system added some block seal and drove it for a couple days. Ran fine. No overheating. Flushed it again and added fresh coolant, changed the oil. Put about 130 miles on it all together with no overheating issues.

Was driving back to Arizona from San Diego figuring I’d solved the issue. At least for a while. About 20 miles in experienced significant power loss. Didn’t start to over heat until I pulled over. And upon further inspection found coolant literally spraying out of cylinder 1.

checked the compression, cylinder one is the only one with decent pressure at 125. Cylinder 2 at 120. And the rest of then completely dead with less than 30 each.
Now she obviously won’t turn over. Don’t know if it’s the head. The gasket. Cracked block. Or cooling system issue. I’m lost.

So I remove the head again and dig into it. Do I bite the bullet and just send the whole car to a shop and get it all taken care of. Do I look for a new motor? Any places in San Diego you would recommend.
(P.s Also something to be considered. Was having a waxy silicone like substance come out of my radiator when the engine would get hot and coolant would boil over. Have no idea what it was or is. Still. First saw it when I initially overheated about 6 months ago. )

HELP!
So to reiterate. Compression loss in cylinders 3-6. Coolant in cylinder 1 which is the only one getting good compression. And obvious power loss which happened all at once.
 

rhah

Admit it, your cruisers jealous
Joined
Dec 23, 2010
Messages
518
Location
ottawa, kansas
If your sticking with the stock 2f, oem head gasket only. Been through 4 other brands before going back to oem and well it finally worked then.
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.
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but if your going to sink the money into fixing the 2f, your way better off slapping an sbc or LS motor in there for the same price.
.
.
You’ll be waaaay happier than a 2f
 
Joined
Jun 21, 2020
Messages
18
Location
Arizona
If your sticking with the stock 2f, oem head gasket only. Been through 4 other brands before going back to oem and well it finally worked then.
.
.
.
but if your going to sink the money into fixing the 2f, your way better off slapping an sbc or LS motor in there for the same price.
.
.
You’ll be waaaay happier than a 2f
Just bought a full fuel injection kit for my 2f. And think it would hold its value better if I stick with the original motor
 
Joined
Nov 29, 2020
Messages
3
Location
Montana
Losing compression in multiple cylinders sounds like a head to block issue, rather than burnt pistons, rings, etc and you said you had the valves done. I assume the block was inspected at the time of head removal? Any abnormal smoke? Are you seeing any oil in the coolant or coolant (muddy substance) on the dipstick?

Did you torque in sequence, snugging, then tightening each in sequence until you got to torque? You can definitely have a problem if you torque down the first few to spec and then continue to the rest.

A buddy of mine once had a rebuilt 2F that baffled us and after trying everything else, ended up purchasing an OE head gasket. When we took the head off and inspected closely, there were slight variations between the existing gasket and the new one. (The waxy substance seems fishy)

This is all I have. Good luck!
 

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