Another horror story. Need help from the experts (1 Viewer)

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I'd put my Money on cheap gasket failure: hence the loss of PSI in 3 thru 6.

pull the head off, take it back to the shop that worked it just to have them check it again.

if it's good, clean up your cylinders and piston surfaces, get an OEM gasket, reinstall.

This time use a tap / thread chase to clean out the head bolt holes in the block, make sure they are clean and free of obstruction. possibly get new head bolts.

depending on how much they took off the head, the bolts can indeed bottom out in the holes which has happened to a few MUD members. ensure the bolts are the right length, not too long. If the bottom out you cannot achieve correct clamping pressure on the head as the bolts bottom out into the block, yet your torque wrench will show that you reached the correct torque spec as you continue to twist the bolts.

Use a good torque wrench. Use the correct torque sequence. snug the head bit by bit, in that correct sequence.

follow the recommendations to re-torque the head after a warm up, then again after 50 miles, 100 miles, 250 miles, 1000 miles.

when you do this, just do one bolt at a time. don't loosen up the head, just one bolt at a time.

good luck
 

rhah

Admit it, your cruisers jealous
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Just bought a full fuel injection kit for my 2f. And think it would hold its value better if I stick with the original motor

Drive one one time, you’ll see

But good luck with it, wish you were closer. Garage door is open if ya need it
 

Gretsch

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Another good point I’ve been concerned about. I used the gasket kit that was provided to me by the machine shop. Now I know I should have gone oem

Seems like of the still replaceable bits available for a 2F from Toyota, none are more encouraged to be OEM Toyota than the head gasket. I know I wouldn't trust anything else.
 
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Austin, TX
follow the recommendations to re-torque the head after a warm up, then again after 50 miles, 100 miles, 250 miles, 1000 miles.

when you do this, just do one bolt at a time. don't loosen up the head, just one bolt at a time.

good luck

Are you suggesting to loosen the head bolts and torque back to spec, one at a time? Or just torque to spec?
 

cruisermatt

Un-manufacturable
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when you have the head off measure how thick it is in a bunch of spots and post it up. With good measuring tools like to the .001"
 

cruisermatt

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@cruisermatt is that the only way to know if you are going to bottom out your head bolts?

No, but it's a good idea if the head is off. The machine shop should be doing this if they're checking it but most machine shops are garbage unfortunately

I would think some kind of liquid or thin gel under a couple of the bolt heads squeezed out would be a nice visual indicator. A very thin layer of RTV would work I guess. I wonder if there is a product already for this, I know you can buy washers that are filled with gel that squeeze out at specified torque, but a washer would defeat the purpose of seeing if the bolt is bottoming out

I haven't actually run into this situation before so I don't know. @FJ40Jim does though
 

FJ40Jim

The Cruiser Whisperer
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After the head comes off, run the head bolts in with a speederwrench until snug and measure the deck-to-boltflange distance. Compare to measured thickness of head
+ gasket.

Also, measure the depth of the dowel pockets in block & head, add up pockets + gasket thickness. Compare to heaight of dowel sleeves.

To check with engine installed, cut the head off a scrap headbolt & slot the top. Screw the headless bolt into a bolt hole until snug, measuring the depth below the head surface. Compare stud length + depth to stock bolt length.
 

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