I wouldn’t just assume you need a full rebuild. Plenty of people on here have gone well over 300k without touching the bottom end.
Mine has 230k and no signs of major engine wear on the oil analysis.
Another 1FZFE with Ticking Sound! 96 LX450 with 181,000 Miles (Video included) (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter OkieOverland
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Mine has 230k and no signs of major engine wear on the oil analysis.
COYS
SILVER Star
I wouldn’t sweat the other gears. Just replace them all with new while in there so they can break in together.
You can totally reuse the og block and most of the head innards so long as it checks out per FSM, but I’d get a new head for sure. Too many anecdotal threads showing hairline cracks and weeps, plus FSM says either in spec or replace with new.
Enjoy the process. Satisfaction is right around the corner.
You can totally reuse the og block and most of the head innards so long as it checks out per FSM, but I’d get a new head for sure. Too many anecdotal threads showing hairline cracks and weeps, plus FSM says either in spec or replace with new.
Enjoy the process. Satisfaction is right around the corner.
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I didn’t think cracked heads were that common on the 1fz. It’d be a good idea to get the old head pressure tested at the machine shop if it ever comes off along with checking for flatness etc
I was really optimistic when you found this!.... then disappointed when the noise was still present
Good luck with the remaining discovery and diagnosis. I'd decide on keeping/replacing major components based on closer inspection but would be leaning towards a full teardown from what you've shared in this thread. It's still possible that it's a valve train noise and that you could resolve it with head work but the possibility of metal from the gear(s) floating around and causing bearing issues, etc. are certainly relevant and would diminish my confidence in top-end only work on this engine, even if you find slack in the valve train that explains the noise. Hopefully you find clear explanations for the noise(s) and no damage to the larger components.
Although further diagnosis can help you decide it may be time to start researching rebuild costs compared to buying a new shortblock/head/etc... @COYS has shared good info from his recent engine build using mostly or all new parts from Toyota. When you factor in warranty and other factors (like access to qualified rebuilders in your area) the new shortblock based build could be a good option even if your engine is an easy rebuild candidate, which still seems probable in my opinion.
Take a breath! It's a colossal step from checking the valve clearances to rebuilding the engine $$$$$$.
Pop the valve cover off and check the clearances. It's not a difficult job. Just need some feeler gauges and a socket to fit the crank nut to rotate the engine (30mm?)
Then do compression & leakdown checks.
Speaking of crank nuts, is yours tight?
Pop the valve cover off and check the clearances. It's not a difficult job. Just need some feeler gauges and a socket to fit the crank nut to rotate the engine (30mm?)
Then do compression & leakdown checks.
Speaking of crank nuts, is yours tight?
COYS
SILVER Star
The reason I got this nailed is because I went through it. I know this noise all too well and why I chimed in to try and help the dude who put his face to the name.
My 1FZ-FE is a now 900 miles young, 100% OEM long block rebuild down to the lifters and even the shims. Every single part is new except the valve cover since NLA.
Unfortunately, I had to reopen up the engine to do a forensic analysis on what caused this noise to discover it was a nicked oil pump gear. All three gears replaced —> sewing machine smooth. I’m talking the tiniest of nicks that you cannot feel with a finger nail. I wouldn’t have believed it if I hadn’t seen it with my own
.
This is not a valve train noise. It’s not a rod. It’s coming from one or two or three of the gears that sit behind the timing chain cover.
But disclaimer is my og engine and truck was a BaT type rig back when I bought it years ago. If the op went into this purchase mentally prepared for a rebuild, I honestly wouldn’t bother fielding inquiry from the ih8 peanut gallery and start getting to work on rebuild plans. Be discerning on where and with whom you seek counsel.
I don’t recommend to others the path I took. It’s a lot and it’s in some ways personal because the 80 is your baby/memories/community. I’ve already made my humble suggestions to the op here. He’ll do great if he has a solid rebuild plan and sticks to it.
My 1FZ-FE is a now 900 miles young, 100% OEM long block rebuild down to the lifters and even the shims. Every single part is new except the valve cover since NLA.
Unfortunately, I had to reopen up the engine to do a forensic analysis on what caused this noise to discover it was a nicked oil pump gear. All three gears replaced —> sewing machine smooth. I’m talking the tiniest of nicks that you cannot feel with a finger nail. I wouldn’t have believed it if I hadn’t seen it with my own
.This is not a valve train noise. It’s not a rod. It’s coming from one or two or three of the gears that sit behind the timing chain cover.
But disclaimer is my og engine and truck was a BaT type rig back when I bought it years ago. If the op went into this purchase mentally prepared for a rebuild, I honestly wouldn’t bother fielding inquiry from the ih8 peanut gallery and start getting to work on rebuild plans. Be discerning on where and with whom you seek counsel.
I don’t recommend to others the path I took. It’s a lot and it’s in some ways personal because the 80 is your baby/memories/community. I’ve already made my humble suggestions to the op here. He’ll do great if he has a solid rebuild plan and sticks to it.
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So what's the risk of continuing to run the engine with a nicked gear? Are we talking some sort of downstream catastrophic mechanical failure, or is it just going to be an irritating noise?
COYS
SILVER Star
Not sure anyone would be so brazen to run their truck, never mind a Land Cruiser, with a noise that lacks such decorum.
Thus why you see all of these YouTube vids and threads ending with “I sold it” so it’s now someone else’s prob.
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As part of the gallery here, I'll throw my opinion in on this good question. Assuming it is gear noise, which does line up with the damage in the picture, I think the risks include:
- Accelerated wear and then failure of the gears since the noise by itself indicates ongoing wear
- the OP also noted that this noise seems to be getting worse at a noticeable rate and went from higher rpm only to now occurring at idle, which is to be expected when you have damaged gears (regardless of the machine)
- Secondary damage caused by metal from the gears getting into the oil system. This could be pump, bearing or other damage.
- It's also possible that this noise is not primarily from the gears themselves but from secondary damage that's already been caused by metal in the oil. Or there could be coincidental issues causing the noise (valvetrain, other?), though that doesn't seem as likely at this point given the information from the OP and of other members experiences.
The engine is still mostly assembled so none of us really know the full story but I think this thread has brought some good information and experiences to the forum and that the OP has done a great job of entertaining the gallery which we all appreciate
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- Thread starter
- #30
Thought I’d post an update. Checked the valves yesterday and the cam lobes. Didn’t notice anything out of the ordinary. So I pulled the oil pan today and this is what I found. I have of course watched mercedessource YouTube series on the land cruiser motor ticking sound and these shavings look awfully similar to the bearing material he found. It’s not magnetic so I’m assuming aluminum.
since you have the oil pan off, pull the rod bearings one by one and check the condition.
@OkieOverland any updates? Did you get the upper pan off?
Hi, had a rebuild on my own 1FZFE recently and have watched this thread since the beginning. Been wondering whether you've had a chance to remove engine and do a full autopsy/post-mortem? Were the crank journals still serviceable? Any other obvious signs of wear like main bearings?
Cheers
Cheers
308k still whacking away
Okay, I'll put my 2 Penny's in...
Did mine in August, 372k miles.
You are doing the right thing FOR sure!
I replaced my rod & mains (might as well), 1 main had a small scratch ~ 1/2 the length of the bearing.
Hopefully, after careful measurements & inspection you can replace those bearings and live happily ever after!
P.S. don't go cheap on the assembly lube!
- Thread starter
- #38
@GeoffBart It has been slow going for sure! Major learning experience for me, but I'm enjoying it. I took the head to a machine shop on Monday. I just got the block disassembled, but I haven't had a chance to measure everything out yet. Getting the motor out of the LX took me every bit of a week working in the evenings and on weekends. My garage is small and I had to borrow an engine lift from a friend, so that set me back a few days.
There were no other obvious signs of wear. The main bearings look great. 1/2 of the rod bearings look great. The cylinders look fine, and I'll be measuring them with a bore gauge. The crank looks fine, and I'll be measuring it with a dial indicator and micrometer.
I ordered all new gaskets, seals, gears, timing chain, oil pump cover, and a few other goodies. Figured while I was in there I would go ahead and refresh what I had access to.
I'm starting to think that new bearings will do the job, but I still have a few measurements to take to be certain.
My main issue with the bearings is that I cannot find the ones that are built for my engine in stock ANYWHERE. I have the "2" stamped on my block and the "3" stamped on my rods, so I'm supposed to use mark 5. I checked partsouq, amayama, ebay, my local dealer, other online dealers, and the ones that I need are not in stock. Does anyone know if a different size would be OK?
I was looking at this Taiho bearing set. MAIN & CON ROD BEARING SET TOYOTA 1FZ-FE FOR LAND CRUISER FZJ LEXUS LX450 4.5 LT | eBay - https://www.ebay.com/itm/183895898579 I just want to be sure that they are going to work.
@manofthewoods What assembly lube did you go with?
There were no other obvious signs of wear. The main bearings look great. 1/2 of the rod bearings look great. The cylinders look fine, and I'll be measuring them with a bore gauge. The crank looks fine, and I'll be measuring it with a dial indicator and micrometer.
I ordered all new gaskets, seals, gears, timing chain, oil pump cover, and a few other goodies. Figured while I was in there I would go ahead and refresh what I had access to.
I'm starting to think that new bearings will do the job, but I still have a few measurements to take to be certain.
My main issue with the bearings is that I cannot find the ones that are built for my engine in stock ANYWHERE. I have the "2" stamped on my block and the "3" stamped on my rods, so I'm supposed to use mark 5. I checked partsouq, amayama, ebay, my local dealer, other online dealers, and the ones that I need are not in stock. Does anyone know if a different size would be OK?
I was looking at this Taiho bearing set. MAIN & CON ROD BEARING SET TOYOTA 1FZ-FE FOR LAND CRUISER FZJ LEXUS LX450 4.5 LT | eBay - https://www.ebay.com/itm/183895898579 I just want to be sure that they are going to work.
@manofthewoods What assembly lube did you go with?
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Lube, I got it from my local Autozone. I think it's Redline, I'll check when I get home.
Re: the bearing sizes, can you read the number off the original? That's what I went by
Correction, Assembly lube is from Lucas. Most important I think, is to use plenty; so the first startup doesn't feature any bearings w/o lubrication. Call it cheap insurance.
