Andy's Taco build thread

brian

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I am sure the rust would have spread pretty repidly - as it is the truck looked great a year and a half ago and the rust progressed pretty rapidly once I started wheeling it.

I think the twisting and vibration tweaked the welds and let dirt and moisture in.
It's the acidic environment that you guys run in.
You made almost the same comment regarding your 40 showing signs of rust after being taken up there.
 

caz

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Could be, or could be the road salt too! Either way, there is a pretty nasty design flaw. I think it had been brewing for years and wheeling was what pushed it over the edge. The paint was holding a lot of it together!
 

caz

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Well, I figured that since I missed the MABDR run because my truck wasn't done, I really needed to finish things before the same thing happens for CMCC next month!

I stripped the patch panels and coated them with Eastwood's 2 part epoxy primer in a can...
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I glued in the patches with the 3m panel bonding adhesive
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I welded at the bottom corners to close up the gaps and ground smooth and filled with a light coat of filler..
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I coated with another coat of Eastwood epoxy primer on the front and back
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Still have the other side to finish, currently watching paint dry...
 

caz

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After nearly a year, I finally got my electric locker wired, and none too soon for CMCC!

I used the following diagram shamelessly stolen from somewhere on the internet:

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I used a OTRATTW switch - purchased from Low Range Offroad -

frontlockerswitch.jpg


I used 7 conductor trailer wire I purchased from Jegs. If I had it to do over again I would try to find something that has all 14 gauge wire. The black and the ground on this were much heavier gauge and the overall cable was pretty beefy! You also only need 6 wires.
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Here is the wiring to the switch with my notes for the trailer wire colors:

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Yee ha!!

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Here is a lame video of it working:

 

YotaFun

 
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Good Stuff! I didn't know such a diagram existed for the locker actuator. What wasn't working exactly?

Something to try is to just pull the motor, push the button so the motor spins to the lock position and then use a screw driver and push the fork over till its in fully locked position and then install the motor.

I did that and haven't had an issue since, or least haven't noticed...
 

caz

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Good Stuff! I didn't know such a diagram existed for the locker actuator. What wasn't working exactly?
The problem was that my truck wasn't wired for it from the factory :rofl:

The other issue was as you described. The motor and the pinion were not aligned correctly and it would not lock. I pulled the motor and got everything squared away using the instructions above from the FSM.
 
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caz

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I like to keep my tires looking good, and pressure washing alone does not get rid of the coal mud stains from Rausch.

I've been using Bleche Wite on my tires for years, it is so good I am amazed every time I use it and thought I should pass on the tip.

20180729_163859.jpg


Here is after pressure wash only....

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After Bleche Wite and pressure wash...

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