An ethical dilemma? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter FJ40Jim
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Would be great to have a list of certified builders. That can get a mud accreditation and it needs a yearly update or star system.
That's one way of sidestepping these jokers.
That's one way of sidestepping these jokers.
crushers
post ho
he does seem to be able to find decent base trucks to build from ...
myquestoyota
SILVER Star
He periodically runs land cruiser wanted ads in the Seattle CL and probably Spokane, Boise and Portland as well. Eastern WA is a nice dry place to find a lot less rust than my side of the mountains. Too bad he has the reputation of a snake.
I would say he has a worse reputation than a snake, although I am partial to snakes.
myquestoyota
SILVER Star
Yeah, I knew Godwin would respond to that but here on mud if I said turd instead of snake someone would have come back defending turds. No offense meant to snakes or turds.
78fj40mg
TLCA #23510
From his eBay ad...
Which is it? Bored or excited?
Which is it? Bored or excited?
78fj40mg
TLCA #23510
He's very conflicted!
What a pompous dick! At no time during his incoherent ramblings did he even come close to making sense. He is all over the board at one point talking about getting parts from CCOT, then saying he has containers of parts so he doesn't need to buy them. I'm sure he's only looking to make what he has into the truck. Yeah right... if that's the case his business model sucks.
crushers
post ho
he can't even install shackles correctly ... a real pro, at spouting steer dung to innocent addicts (up and coming cruiserheads)
take a close look at the build pics .... prepare to be amazed. ... not in a good way.
take a close look at the build pics .... prepare to be amazed. ... not in a good way.
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- #554
It's hard to take a close look at the pics because the pic quality is always so poor. Low resolution and no flash.
And nothing is really visible after painting the rusty floors and frame with black spatterpaint to hide defects.
And nothing is really visible after painting the rusty floors and frame with black spatterpaint to hide defects.
crushers
post ho
rear brake line sticking way up, nothing but pro work here ...
but agree, poor pics suck.
as with any large investment, FLY IN and take a look in person preferably with someone that KNOWS what to look for under the veneer covering.
but agree, poor pics suck.
as with any large investment, FLY IN and take a look in person preferably with someone that KNOWS what to look for under the veneer covering.
crushers
post ho
just for fun, based on the pics.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Toyota-Land...h=item43ddad0087&item=291481911431&rmvSB=true
pic 1:
not factory head liner
not factory interior light
crappy paint along door jamb
painted hinge bolts
poor application of rock guard floor covering
Pic 2:
non factory dash pad (still available)
vin plate showing nasty aging (unless this is blured so buyer can't read it)
wiper blades uneven
Pic 3:
center clip for seat cover bottom missing so not pulled down even in the center
rubberized floor covering right up to inner door lip??
Pic 4:
why would anyone mount a high lift there?
you can still see the surface rust on the roof steel front lip.
cheap after market signals
painted windshield hinge bolts
front shackles installed upside down
pic 5:
sanding marks and scuff marks showing in the light reflection.
pic 6:
no head rests
grey not peuter, way too light shade
button knobs not lined up at all
worn seat belts
Pic 7:
no paint behind lower tire retaining mount
rear heater core looks like a quick spray job
pic 8:
hold downs, both windshield and hood are rattle can painted as well as signal light housings
appears to be painted windshield gasket lower... makes you wonder about how detailed the painting really is
pic 9:
rear doors out of alignment.
rear shackles upside down
nice chrome tip on the exhaust
no spot weld divots tub or hard top sides, a sure sign of bondo
pic 10:
the upper fender skirt alignment with hood and tub
pic 11:
could be the picture but it seems there is paint on the window rubbers, removed for painting or taped?
fender flare bottom not aligned with body panel
pic 12"
front door alignment with hardtop side
pic 13:
seam under door seems off, bulge behind the seam and seam not straight down
door alignment to door upper hard top trim piece
pic 15:
what is with the lower part of the doors with bed liner?
roof liner installed sloppy along edges
nice high quality fuzzy pic
pic 17:
obvious rattle can outer glove box door and ash tray
what is with the paint lower RH corner of glove box metal?
pic 18:
nice veneer truck over view
http://s953.photobucket.com/user/fj40man79/library/1976 FJ40 FI Red
46: lots of armourall on the hoses under the hood
air filter?
nice brake line routing under hood
48: rear brake line sticking up waiting for a branch to catch it
51: great shot of upside down shackles ... care to explain how these work?
20: no rubber under hood hinges
23: painted rear door rubber bottom
maybe this guy should hook up with Angel??
if he had posted high quality pics .... could be really interesting.
his high end diesel build should be a good read.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Toyota-Land...h=item43ddad0087&item=291481911431&rmvSB=true
pic 1:
not factory head liner
not factory interior light
crappy paint along door jamb
painted hinge bolts
poor application of rock guard floor covering
Pic 2:
non factory dash pad (still available)
vin plate showing nasty aging (unless this is blured so buyer can't read it)
wiper blades uneven
Pic 3:
center clip for seat cover bottom missing so not pulled down even in the center
rubberized floor covering right up to inner door lip??
Pic 4:
why would anyone mount a high lift there?
you can still see the surface rust on the roof steel front lip.
cheap after market signals
painted windshield hinge bolts
front shackles installed upside down
pic 5:
sanding marks and scuff marks showing in the light reflection.
pic 6:
no head rests
grey not peuter, way too light shade
button knobs not lined up at all
worn seat belts
Pic 7:
no paint behind lower tire retaining mount
rear heater core looks like a quick spray job
pic 8:
hold downs, both windshield and hood are rattle can painted as well as signal light housings
appears to be painted windshield gasket lower... makes you wonder about how detailed the painting really is
pic 9:
rear doors out of alignment.
rear shackles upside down
nice chrome tip on the exhaust
no spot weld divots tub or hard top sides, a sure sign of bondo
pic 10:
the upper fender skirt alignment with hood and tub
pic 11:
could be the picture but it seems there is paint on the window rubbers, removed for painting or taped?
fender flare bottom not aligned with body panel
pic 12"
front door alignment with hardtop side
pic 13:
seam under door seems off, bulge behind the seam and seam not straight down
door alignment to door upper hard top trim piece
pic 15:
what is with the lower part of the doors with bed liner?
roof liner installed sloppy along edges
nice high quality fuzzy pic
pic 17:
obvious rattle can outer glove box door and ash tray
what is with the paint lower RH corner of glove box metal?
pic 18:
nice veneer truck over view
http://s953.photobucket.com/user/fj40man79/library/1976 FJ40 FI Red
46: lots of armourall on the hoses under the hood
air filter?
nice brake line routing under hood
48: rear brake line sticking up waiting for a branch to catch it
51: great shot of upside down shackles ... care to explain how these work?
20: no rubber under hood hinges
23: painted rear door rubber bottom
maybe this guy should hook up with Angel??
if he had posted high quality pics .... could be really interesting.
his high end diesel build should be a good read.
78fj40mg
TLCA #23510
DanS HJ-45
SILVER Star
No way Wayne!
He said it: "best in world 1981 Land Cruiser BJ42 3B Diesel 24 V LHD."
That's it. Best in the world. The game is over guys, he did it.
I am kind of curious what about 24V screams "best in world" to him though. The BEST would be a 24V starter, an an S-P switch for it, but otherwise a 12V truck. I'm just saying.....
This should be good. I hope I don't miss it.
Dan
crushers
post ho
here is my "real world experience" of 12V vrs 24V systems.
the only real difference is finding the replacement 24V parts, starting is the same for both systems, relays last equally as long, switches last just as long, starters, alternators last the same but cost significantly more to replace the 24V stuff. many north american shops are scared to work on the 24V parts.
a 12V BJ42 would be a nice unit.
this guy and Angel should hook up, they have the same morals when it comes to selling vehicles.
the only real difference is finding the replacement 24V parts, starting is the same for both systems, relays last equally as long, switches last just as long, starters, alternators last the same but cost significantly more to replace the 24V stuff. many north american shops are scared to work on the 24V parts.
a 12V BJ42 would be a nice unit.
this guy and Angel should hook up, they have the same morals when it comes to selling vehicles.
78fj40mg
TLCA #23510
This is what he's selling now: http://www.ebay.com/sch/classicappr...=STRK:null:MESOI&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2654
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