Air Lift 1000 Install

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The 30mm ones I picked up from Slee weren't that much. Like 60 to my door. What size are you looking for?

In all my research I am seeing the IFS cruiser is simply not a very good platform for lifting without affecting functionality and reliability. I see now a real value of solid axles. Since I am not adding armor and only a badlands 12k winch (85lbs.)(hidden factory bumper mount) I think I can meet my demand of a closely leveled 2" lift by using either OME medium duty 866/65/63 rear coils only OR use 30mm rear coil spacers. I would prefer going 50mm to alleviate the need for body lift to get to the 2 inches I want. This all of course relies on me cranking OEM TBs. I find there is gap in the US market for these spacers, $60 for those spacers is a huge mark up by way of shipping costs.

I wish I knew the dimensions so I could find some cross references or make them in my shop, maybe even improve them. I think the rear 80 is definitely compatible.
 
Do you mean OD and ID? I'll see if I can find something. Many vendors sell them state side, 80 series rear spacers fit 100s perfectly. I have 30mm 80 series installed for $42 iirc from MAF with 2 day shipping. Just found the invoice, add S&H to $58.

That's cheaper than I have found on ebay and a few other places. Since 100 Series owners cant use the front coils, it would be great to have some just for the 100s in 30, 50, et al, at a lower price point.

BTW...What's the Go-to body lift for 100s? The one I unearthed from earlier thread read I couldn't find online shopping. "Spressofab 1" body lift "
 
image.webp No bevels, just approx 3/16 x 3/16 raised profile on one face (coil side) outer edge, the opposite body side face is flat, on 30mm stock. IMV the raised rim serves no real purpose as the coil sits flat, inside off the rim profile and hard up against the spacer and wouldn't be necessary if you're fabbing your own. Image from MAF site.
 
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View attachment 1106510 No bevels, just approx 3/16 x 3/16 raised profile on one face (coil side) outer edge, the opposite body side face is flat, on 30mm stock. IMV the raised rim serves no real purpose as the coil sits flat, inside off the rim profile and hard up against the spacer and wouldn't be necessary if you're fabbing your own. Image from MAF site.

YOU ARE THE MAN! If I have some Poly in stock or comparable material I'll run them. I am trying to get my 100 lifted quickly.

sidebar: Not that I need the lift to run this tire, but I'm putting these on for fall/winter..I cant wait to see how they perform on those muddy inclines
http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-New-Tires...235-/221805404235?hash=item33a4a1e04b&vxp=mtr
 
The verdict is.... If you want 30mm coil spacers buy from MAF. If you want 50mm, well, you're SOL because the price jumps big time. So the market gap is really just in 50mm stock.

So the question is...can I stack the 30mm and get +2 inches? Is it functionally safe?
 
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I'm planning on doing a set of air lift bags with a 30 mm spacer and stock springs. Should I get part # 60728? I would rather get a longer bag and not cut down the bump stops in case I don't like the bags I can put the stops back in.
 
I have
AIR LIFT 60744 1000 Series Rear Air Spring Kit
Did anyone install these spacers at the bottom of the bags?
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The verdict is.... If you want 30mm coil spacers buy from MAF. If you want 50mm, well, you're SOL because the price jumps big time. So the market gap is really just in 50mm stock.

So the question is...can I stack the 30mm and get +2 inches? Is it functionally safe?

Yes. It's just a piece of rubber
 
I did not
I put the spacer in there to see how it works out
Looks like a good fit and avoids the drilling.
Also routed the air hoses over the rear cross member so they valves are accessible right below tailgate through the spare tire access hole.
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I don't know if it was mentioned previously, but on an 80 at least you don't need to unbolt or remove anything to install the air bags. You just shove them through the spring coil gap and use a right angle die grinder bit to open up the bottom hole.

Maybe a 10 minute job per side.

Anyone have a link to a writeup for install in the 80's?

Seems to be a little different install method than the 100.
 
I've been doing a little research on putting in airbags to help with the saggy butt syndrome. I have a stock suspension and stock bumpers. I haven't had any concerns with the rear suspension compression for normal operations or even with the back loaded up with camping gear and a couple kids. But I do have serious sag issues when I hook up my Jayco Baja. It has a tongue weight of 200 lbs with nothing in it. You add stuff to the cargo area plus more weight on the trailer's cargo deck and it gets pretty bad. My initial thought has been to add these airbags but from what I'm reading in this thread and a little bit I've heard elsewhere, they can be somewhat problematic with lines pulling off, seams splitting, bags getting stuck or torn when you are wheeling. Mine doesn't go off-road a lot, maybe 6 times a year. It tows the camper at least as much. How would you decide between adding the airbags vs. using a weight distributing hitch? Does the hitch accomplish the goals of leveling the vehicle out? What are the negatives of the hitch vs. the airbags?
 
I've been doing a little research on putting in airbags to help with the saggy butt syndrome. I have a stock suspension and stock bumpers. I haven't had any concerns with the rear suspension compression for normal operations or even with the back loaded up with camping gear and a couple kids. But I do have serious sag issues when I hook up my Jayco Baja. It has a tongue weight of 200 lbs with nothing in it. You add stuff to the cargo area plus more weight on the trailer's cargo deck and it gets pretty bad. My initial thought has been to add these airbags but from what I'm reading in this thread and a little bit I've heard elsewhere, they can be somewhat problematic with lines pulling off, seams splitting, bags getting stuck or torn when you are wheeling. Mine doesn't go off-road a lot, maybe 6 times a year. It tows the camper at least as much. How would you decide between adding the airbags vs. using a weight distributing hitch? Does the hitch accomplish the goals of leveling the vehicle out? What are the negatives of the hitch vs. the airbags?

@marcfj60 You might want both actually. I have the bags, just installed, on my 03. My experience with a weight distributing hitch is that is typically does little to eliminate sag. At 89$ and very little labor the airbags and the hitch would be my recomendation.

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In this picture you can see what 25lbs of air does to the rear end. My driveway is slightly sloped but you can still see how much the rear comes up....
 
I have upgraded my springs, plus have a weight distribution hitch. My trailer has a tongue weight of just under 600lbs. The distribution hitch works great, plus it is anti-sway, so large trucks going by does not bother me at all! In some states, Idaho being one, once your trailer weight reaches 2500lbs, a weight distribution hitch is mandatory. I would highly recommend it. We tow a Lance 2285, as a comparison.
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Getting ready for summer road trips. With a family of 7 on board, the ass end really drops. Stock rear springs w/ MAF 30mm spacers. Stock front torsion bars cranked to 21.5" Fender lip to hub center, 1" rake rear to front. Fox 2.0 Shocks. No extra weight (stock plastic bumpers all around, for now). All good til, everybody piles in.

Been wanting to add AirLift bags for a while. Studied this thread repeatedly and ordered this kit...

AIR LIFT 60808 1000 Series Rear Air Spring Kit

Quick observations. Bags actual length 9.375" tall, very close in diameter to the ID of the spring. Kit included urethane spacers (black hockey puck), air fittings/tubing, sheet metal heat shield x2 (did not use).

Picked up a step drill bit from Harbor Freight ($20 for 2 pc Kit). Bigger of the 2 was up to 1.375" diameter, but will hit the axle tube before plunging that deep. Resulting hole was around 1" (didn't stop to measure) I used the sharp side edge of a flat bladed screw driver to debur the bottom side of the hole (scraping around the inside lower edge). Finished with a Jewelers file.

However, I was really wanting to line the hole with a plastic bushing of some sort, since rubber grommets/fuel line seems to be too grabby. The stock 1/8" AirLift black tubing was more flexible than other pneumatic poly tubing I've used, so I decided to try splitting down the length and lining the hole with it (see pic). JB welded it in place. Installing it was very finicky, messy, and added time to the job to let the epoxy to set up a bit. Jammed a 17mm socket in there for a while to seat the JB (pic). The hose slides extremely easy through the new hole. Hopefully, it holds up over time.

I used the supplied spacers at the bottom, although they were not a good match dimensionally with the bag, coil, or barb/tube fitting. I'll trust the manufacturer, but keep an eye on it.

I left enough slack in the line for the bag to be pushed up to the top spring perch at full droop/extension. I routed each bag's air line to the supplied "T" in the center of the axle, zip tying to the hard brake lines. Then routed the single line along the flexible Brake Line up to the frame cross member. Ran the through the frame back to the drivers side rear bumper. Mounted the Schrader valve through a bumper tab pointing straight down.

For those of you running stock + 30mm coil spacers...With the truck on the ground, this length bag just touches the perches top and bottom. I need to play with it more, but appears, adding and subtracting air immediately raises and lowers the truck. Kind of what I was hoping for.

"Upload File" not working right now. Will post pics a soon as it decides to not error out...
 
Just installed #60728 air lift bags yesterday. Install was a snap, especially since I just installed oem springs about a month ago. The process was easier a second time around.

The harbor freight step drill makes drilling the hole really easy. I used a 1" rubber grommet to protect the hose. Used a debur tool to clean the edges first.

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I think I spent the most time brainstorming places for the shrader valve. Thought about inside the cargo area but decided on the trailer electric bracket. This area is completely protected and easily accessible without bending over.

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Seems like a nice setup. Haven't put a load in yet but had 10 psi for about 24 hours without issue. Ride is still really nice too. 10 psi gave about a half inch lift. Plan on running 5 psi for normal daily use.
 
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