Agonizing over Tub- Fix, or buy Aqualu?

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Have you shopped for a rust-free, or minimum-rust tub yet? Some folks believe that such tubs are relatively cheap, which was a revelation to me: https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/what-should-this-1978-tub-and-frame-sell-for.810586/

Now, I am not suggesting that you buy that particular tub. I am merely pointing out that compared to the kind of money you are talking about spending on a new tub, several comments in that thread suggest that you might be able to find a solid used tub, put a lot less labor into it than your existing tub and still emerge money ahead?

All the best in your decision. Just thought the contrast between threads was worthy to note.
 
I used lots of rivnuts in place of captured nuts
They were cad plated and I dont seeany electrolysis problems.
I rough sanded with DA, then used PPG aluminum prep and then alum conditioner then quickly primed and painted. I have not had any paint lift (done in 2005) except where master cylinder leaked
And the thick aluminum is very dent resistant
 
Apologies for the low quality, but as promised, here are some pictures of the tub. I spent a week away from the cruiser, and seeing it now, I realize the tub isn't all that bad. It's more a question of labor and longevity in future. Parts I need to replace to get it the way I want to:

Both rear quarters
Rear Sill
Inner and outer rockers
driver and passenger side floors
rear fenders

Adding up the cost of those parts gets me to the estimates I mentioned earlier in the thread. But the tub is in good enough shape that I think I could get decent money for it and avoid a ton of labor and future rust problems.

Anyway, here are the pics:



Box tube rear sill:



Holes in the passenger side rear fender where the supports are:



rust in the passenger rear channel at the ambulance door opening:



Cut fenders:



Tough to see here, but the tops of both rear fenders are pretty dented up:



But, the tub is in decent shape in the rear:



Super pitted passenger side floor, with some holes. Any remaining red stuff is filler that I haven't wire wheeled out yet.



Another passenger floor pic:



Driver side floor. Looks like there were some prior rust repairs where the ribs are- you can see a few sections where the ribs stop and there's a flat section, then the ribs resume.



Anyway, I expect some of you to think I'm crazy for considering replacing this tub, but I do want to hear your points of view!

Peter
 
Your rig will have a greater resale value with the original tub and the repairs. You rig is in better shape than mine was and I repaired mine. But I would recommend using POR 15 on the frame and all the body parts. Yes its a pain to get it prepared right and a long day from the time you apply the POR 15 until you get the etchant primer and buildable primer all on in one day. Do the Frame and under side one day then the inside and outside of the tub another day. You will be happy with the results. I have done two FJ40's that way.
 
Is your truck 100% stock? If not I say aqualu. If its a survivor go with steel. Majority of people wont care anyway if you sell it what the tub is made of if its a somewhat modified rig. At that point what matters is if it looks good and the mods aren't ghetto. At least from what I see on ebay. If you restore yours you have to buy almost as many panels as a fairly rotted tub because who wants to make a bunch of tiny patch panels? Then you have to get it acid dipped or else their will be rust you'll never get too otherwise, then you will have to have it galvanized cuz youll never get protection in the nooks n crannies, and then you can think about paint, and then you'll wonder why the heck your doing all this work to save 500 bucks.
 
If you do go the aqualu direction, I may be interested in your tub.

Also, if you want an OEM look with the Aqualu tub, I have dealt with a local metal cutting company that can recreate the ribbing of the rear tub in aluminum. All you would have to do is glue them down with LORD Fusor or something similar. The adhesive is stronger than a weld due to the surface area... Anyhoo just a thought.
 
If you do go the aqualu direction, I may be interested in your tub.

Also, if you want an OEM look with the Aqualu tub, I have dealt with a local metal cutting company that can recreate the ribbing of the rear tub in aluminum. All you would have to do is glue them down with LORD Fusor or something similar. The adhesive is stronger than a weld due to the surface area... Anyhoo just a thought.

Good to know. My cruiser resto timing has been altered in recent days... We just made an offer on a house, and unfortunately it will require us to clean out the FJ40 resto budget. Priorities, I guess!

But if or when the time comes, I will post the tub here!
 
Whatever you do, if you replace the tub, don't toss the old one. From what I can see, it's not that far gone.
 
Whatever you do, if you replace the tub, don't toss the old one. From what I can see, it's not that far gone.

I definitely won't toss it! It has lots of value to those in the rust belt, and for those who aren't picky, it could be refurbed for not all that much money. The only panels that have to be fixed or replaced are the front floors and the passenger rear fender and support. No other rust from what I can see.

In fact, my whole budget for this piece of the project requires me to sell the tub, otherwise it makes more sense to fix it.
 
aluminum is nice!!!!! we sell and install it here. My personal FJ40 from AZ is now a rust bucket and it will be getting an aluminum tub.

IPOR and EBI buy from the same vendor/maker of the panels. EBI is in Canada and the pricing will never be the same thanks to the border.
We carry the steel panels for the purists
patching rusty steel is a huge time commitment most people don't have. I don't, I would never do it to my own Cruiser. A new half steel tub is easy to install and cheap if you put a dollar value on your free time

We're currently installing two aluminum tubs, one fiberglass tub and can't install any steel tubs because we're out of stock right now

the attached pics are of a previously installed aluminum tub we cleaned up, plugged a bunch of holes, painted everything, plus lifted, V8, PS, 5 spd etc. It will be done and driving shortly

fj40 ebi cruisers soa v8 5 spd assemble (1).webp


fj40 ebi cruisers soa v8 5 spd assemble (2).webp


Tub fill and repairs EBI Cruisers (4a).webp
 
it needs the dual exhaust. The owner wants to upsize the header tube diameter already.
engine dyno spec sheet is currently 571 hp, 600 ft pounds with lots of room for more. It's a stroked 434 cube dart little m block with a carb soon to be fuel injected
I think the power will be enough the way it sits currently. The bumpers are aluminum to keep the weight down

the tub, doors, rear gate, WSF, fenders, and bib are also aluminum from Aqualu
there are more pics of the exhaust on our facebook page. I'll try to upload more pics tonight if I have time
 
For me the choice was easy, it was either go with the new tub or Chase rust forever.

I went with a Pacol complete tub with firewall. Normally I would suggest that you do the same but it seems like the reliability of Pacol actually delivering product is in question.

I think the idea of going with aqualu would be great. And using rivnuts nuts would be an ideal solution for the lack of captive bolts.

Doc
 
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