Aftermarket UCAs - Slee vs Total Chaos vs Nitro (1 Viewer)

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I have 30K on total chaos uca's without any problems or squeaks. I hit them with a teflon based spray lubricant recommended by Carl at Just Differentials about every 3 months or so.
 
Interested in responses as well...
 
Good info there. I think I'm leaning toward the Nitro's at this point, just for the replaceable Tundra balljoint. My Cruiser lived it's 16 years before me in Florida, so all the bushings are shot and dry-rotted out. I've got about $3k just in replacement suspension garbage at this point lol.
 
For clarity Slee sells but doesn't make a UCA- the manufacturer is SPC.

SPC is the only option with an adjustable ball joint the provides both caster correction and camber adjustment. This allows you get the alignment back to factory spec( or improve it) after 2"+ lift. The ball joint is also replaceable- and has a zerk to add grease when needed. If you shop around a little, these can be bought for under $500 for the pair. There was some issues on their early production with ball joint longevity and they made some improvements in the design durability of the ball joint in the past year so if you read about ball joint durability- that has been addresssed. I'm about 5,000 miles into my set and so far, good.

Each aftermarket UCA offers a little different functionality benefit (and has pros & cons) that suits individual set up or needs. Which one you choose really depends on how your going use your truck. There are 10 years of threads on this forum discussing the different options for UCAs-some linked above. These helped me discern the best one for my needs.
 
The SPCs (Slee) made my LX (stock AHC) drive like a dream on the highway. Love them. The alignment shop was able to dial in over 3 degrees of caster which helped eliminate the floaty steering I had before. Or maybe I just needed new UCAs and stock units would have been fine. Either way, I'm happy with the SPCs and they allow room for future growth.
 
Been running the Nitros for about 8 months. No squeaks or problems. Lubed the bushings and the joints via the zerks.
I don't know my alignment numbers, but they are within specs. Drives great.

I got the Nitros for the ball joint and for the design that allows the longer extended length Icon shocks to be run without the a-arm contacting the frame bracket.
 
I have a set of SPC arms on the bench. I felt the SPC arms were at the top of the A arm list available to the 100 series and had fitment for the LX470. With the greatest ability to adjust for caster and real ball joints made it an easy decision. I wanted the ability to kick up the caster a couple extra degrees with my LX470 being part time.

When I was ready to pull the trigger I was checking prices and just by luck checked EBay. I was less than a day from an ending auction for a set of SPC for a LX470.:clap: I ended up picking up a brand new in the box set for $400 shipped. :flipoff2:
 
No experience with the new spc ball joints but I went through 2 sets in 10k miles and the 3rd had play in them out of the box!
A local customer had the same issues as well.
Looks like some have had zero issues but with the issues I had I could not recommend them.
A friend of mine has had the nitro on for a 18 months of hard offroad use without issue so if I were buying I would probably go that route.
 
I have about 2 years on the SPC's. They allow you to adjust both camber and caster with just the balljoint. You can basically adjust the inner mounting bolts for little to no bushing binding. Being able to adjust caster to 4+ degrees has been awesome for highway speed traveling... with great stability and return-to-center steering characteristics.

I did torque the balljoints down to 150 lb/ft and once, was able to knock the camber off alignment on an exposed tree root on the trail, at speed. Be sure to carry the correct socket to get it back into alignment. Hasn't been a problem since. I might suggest scraping/sanding the powder coating off on those ball joint to UCA contact points, prior to install, for better grip.

I don't think there is an ideal, off the shelf, UCA for the 100 yet. But given the choice today, I'd select the SPC's again.
 
I have about 2 years on the SPC's. They allow you to adjust both camber and caster with just the balljoint. You can basically adjust the inner mounting bolts for little to no bushing binding. Being able to adjust caster to 4+ degrees has been awesome for highway speed traveling... with great stability and return-to-center steering characteristics.

I did torque the balljoints down to 150 lb/ft and once, was able to knock the camber off alignment on an exposed tree root on the trail, at speed. Be sure to carry the correct socket to get it back into alignment. Hasn't been a problem since. I might suggest scraping/sanding the powder coating off on those ball joint to UCA contact points, prior to install, for better grip.

I don't think there is an ideal, off the shelf, UCA for the 100 yet. But given the choice today, I'd select the SPC's again.

Can I assume your are running 4° of caster and liking it without issue? :)
 
~5K so far on SPC UCA's and I they feel solid, pretty much req'd for OME med/heavy & 2" lift, and 315 toyo mt's don't rub on the inside anymore either (well, the spacers helped too...) the castor/camber instructions are straightforward
 
I have about 15k miles on my Total Chaos. I thought they were the Best Looking. Supposed to lube them, but I haven't yet and have not had any squeaking. I have wheeled them hard, no issues.
 
Can I assume your are running 4° of caster and liking it without issue? :)
Yes, I am liking it w/o issue. However, steering effort is slightly increased, which I am fine with. Tire/wheel offset combinations that are already tight on clearance at the firewall will have slightly tighter clearance with the added caster. My last alignment specs say 4.5 and 4.1 degrees.
 
Yes, I am liking it w/o issue. However, steering effort is slightly increased, which I am fine with. Tire/wheel offset combinations that are already tight on clearance at the firewall will have slightly tighter clearance with the added caster. My last alignment specs say 4.5 and 4.1 degrees.

I was going to start with 2° but thanks to your feedback Im in for 4°. Being part time Im a little lighter anyway and I like the feel to caster alot. :beer:
 
I was going to start with 2° but thanks to your feedback Im in for 4°. Being part time Im a little lighter anyway and I like the feel to caster alot. :beer:

Depending on your tire size, if you go too postive on the caster you might get a little rub at the back of the fenderwell- typically when your turning into an approach or declining grade the edge of the outside tead rubs the plastic fender liner where it sticks out.

Im at approx 3 & 3.25 degrees on caster and had a minor rub, that I cured by using a heat gun and reforming the plastic liner.
 

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