lookin good, tho i figure it would have started with out glowing it, my 3b in my 42 will usually fire up reasonable quick when above 70 and no glow. much below that it would likely have to crank over a few times to fire if it did at all.
African expedition FJ/HJ60 Build for Jesus (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter zuluzeugma
- Start date
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The whole loom would be easier,he has two standard models and one sahara,have you got electric windows/central lock?
zuluzeugma
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #284
Nope, manual everything.
odd, guess id of figured them to be of similar compression, obviously not.
on a side note, i know that a ford powerjoke wont fire without glowing even when 100*f out, however the cummins in my dodge doesnt even have glow plugs and the intake heater grids arnt really needed untill you get around 0*F. talk about major compression differences, then most if not all of your large 18 wheelers do no have glow plugs and fire off of compression alone, some have intake heaters but not all.
I also don't understand it. My HJ60 has better compression than the BJ70 had, but would never fire without glow. The 3b and 2H are extremely similar. For a while I thought this was only a problem with my engine, but I have heard it now several times that the 2H needs a glow, no matter how hot it is.
ok, this was not very technical...
cheers,
J
I spoke to him this morning and told him what your doing,the best he can do is we can have edic motor/relays/loom etc etc and anything else we need for $100.
I have a few bits and pieces on ebay at the moment including a rare Hj47 factory tacho,so i thought i might donate the proceeds from the sale of the tacho to your cause,it has 2 days to go and it would be nice if it reached $100.Ive put the word out on the forum here so hopefully a few mud members get interested.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/sale-parts/343323-hj47-factory-tach-ebay-please-bid-being-donated.html
I'll speak to you the next few days about what exactly you guys need out of the hj60.I'll pull it mon or tues.
cheers goldchaser
zuluzeugma
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #288
Yeah, it def needs glow...
I thought the same thing... "uh.. Africa... Never colder than 75 degrees; they wont need glow." - WRONG WRONG WRONG...
I even tried giving it hot air from a heat gun - nothing...
The only way to get it started is to drag behind another truck in gear until the engine gets warm enough and fires on its on... (Yes, we did this after 6 hours of fiddling with it and it worked within a couple hundred feet of pulling it)
Excellent work gentlemen, any lettering or graphics going on?
Sorry, and lady.
Sorry, and lady.
You guys are an inspiration to the rest of us CruiserHeads. Thank you for posting everything that you have done for this cause and I hope you guys have a fantastic Christmas and New Years.
zuluzeugma
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #292
Yep. Trying to get some vinal cut after the new year.
sandcruiser
....back in the saddle again....
something seems fishy to me.
I drove my 2H powered 60 for months without a glow system because the EDIC was out (yes, I had to manually advance, then start, then put to normal, then cut) I did finally install a wire that let me do all of this more easily... but I didn't have any glow during that time, and while it did start rougher, it still started every time.
Have you done a compression test? If you aren't getting good compression, you've got bigger fish to fry than the EDIC.
As for "something that a bush mechanic can fix".... you are much better off with a cable system.
1) it won't break nearly as easily as the EDIC
2) the stock edic is in a *stupid* location-- very exposed to potential water damage
3) the stock system is notorious for wearing out- those relays are pretty easy to corrode
4) I've got some experience with under-educated mechanics... electricity is open to interpretation. A push-pull cable is almost impossible to do it wrong. It would take.... overwhelming stupidity. To screw up the stock EDIC system merely requires a single bad solder, or a moment of inattention and then weeks of trouble-shooting without a multi-meter.
As a final benefit: in a theft situation, the push/pull and the non-stock glow button might just add enough hassle to the thief that he gives up. Not likely.... but maybe.
AS for driver-education: the stock system requires a multiposition ignition switch. Many people don't "get it" when starting the truck that way and/or "can't" wait 20 seconds for a full glow. A momentary switch with a timer mechanism could automate the whole affair, which is better than the stock version anyway.
.... and you can get the parts for $10 at a bike shop instead of $100 and several weeks from Oz.
Don't overcomplicate your build unless the result makes it better for the end-user.
I drove my 2H powered 60 for months without a glow system because the EDIC was out (yes, I had to manually advance, then start, then put to normal, then cut) I did finally install a wire that let me do all of this more easily... but I didn't have any glow during that time, and while it did start rougher, it still started every time.
Have you done a compression test? If you aren't getting good compression, you've got bigger fish to fry than the EDIC.
As for "something that a bush mechanic can fix".... you are much better off with a cable system.
1) it won't break nearly as easily as the EDIC
2) the stock edic is in a *stupid* location-- very exposed to potential water damage
3) the stock system is notorious for wearing out- those relays are pretty easy to corrode
4) I've got some experience with under-educated mechanics... electricity is open to interpretation. A push-pull cable is almost impossible to do it wrong. It would take.... overwhelming stupidity. To screw up the stock EDIC system merely requires a single bad solder, or a moment of inattention and then weeks of trouble-shooting without a multi-meter.
As a final benefit: in a theft situation, the push/pull and the non-stock glow button might just add enough hassle to the thief that he gives up. Not likely.... but maybe.
AS for driver-education: the stock system requires a multiposition ignition switch. Many people don't "get it" when starting the truck that way and/or "can't" wait 20 seconds for a full glow. A momentary switch with a timer mechanism could automate the whole affair, which is better than the stock version anyway.
.... and you can get the parts for $10 at a bike shop instead of $100 and several weeks from Oz.
Don't overcomplicate your build unless the result makes it better for the end-user.
sandcruiser
....back in the saddle again....
*edit: the cable parts would be $10. The electrical would be another $10 or so and require a trip to somewhere that stocks a 30a relay, and a momentary switch.
Are you sure a 30A relay will work. We were under the impression the glow plugs could draw as much as 10A apiece so 60A total. We wanted to use a Toyota glow plug relay but were looking at Ford starter relays as well.
We would use the choke cable for EDIC control. We already measured it and think it will work.
We have already looked into the option of a cable and "wilson" switch and are talking with Ben to figure out which system he would prefer.
One problem we ran into when building the "wilson" switch system is the correct glow plugs. We have 14V glow plugs in the truck (24v engine). We bought a set of stock glow plugs but they are 8V plugs and will burn up with a "wilson" switch. To set up it up we need 10.5V glow plugs (another $100 for plugs).
Leni
sandcruiser
....back in the saddle again....
I don't know for sure re: the relays, so use 3. They cost.... $5 each? Just run 2 plugs off of each relay.
I don't know how to solve the 14v, 8v, 10.5v problem. I would be tempted to try running the 14v plugs. Just hook one up to a 12v battery and see how hot it gets (use caution). You don't need optimum performance, just something to warm up a bit. Remember, you're starting in 75+ temps, which is pretty warm already.
Or maybe you can buy some resistors and run the 8v plugs? There are many mudders who are better at electrical than I. If you do run resistors, maybe you can bundle them somehow and put them on the fuel line so that the heat that they produce will help preheat the fuel (a very little bit).
Might work.
I don't know how to solve the 14v, 8v, 10.5v problem. I would be tempted to try running the 14v plugs. Just hook one up to a 12v battery and see how hot it gets (use caution). You don't need optimum performance, just something to warm up a bit. Remember, you're starting in 75+ temps, which is pretty warm already.
Or maybe you can buy some resistors and run the 8v plugs? There are many mudders who are better at electrical than I. If you do run resistors, maybe you can bundle them somehow and put them on the fuel line so that the heat that they produce will help preheat the fuel (a very little bit).
Might work.
zuluzeugma
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #297
As per the missionaries request, we will be doing an EDIC cable and Wilson switch.
goldchaser - thanks so much for you're help, but it looks we won't need the system after all.
goldchaser - thanks so much for you're help, but it looks we won't need the system after all.
well the tacho sold for $130 dollars,let me know if you need anything off a hj60.
Sounds like some smart missionaries! You guys rock. Really stoked that you took this on for them. Its really pulling together nicely.
I haven't put up any pictures in two weeks, so heres some of the progress. We are getting very close o driving the rig again.
We've been ordering and getting a lot pf parts.
Resurfaced flywheel
$OR clutch/PP, NSK/KOYO pilot and T/O bearing
Clutch
Not sure about the 2H diesel flywheels but the 2F motor flywheels need to be steeped.
