Builds A.Wilson013's Build Thread (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Mar 29, 2016
Threads
3
Messages
109
Location
Seattle
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Products used in this thread... ( I will not link anything that I do not recommend)

Wheels: Stealth Custom Series F5

Tires: Cooper Tire & Rubber Company - Discoverer S/T MAXX™

Roof Rack: Lexus GX470 Slimline II Roof Rack Kit - by Front Runner

Low beam HIDS: H11 Morimoto Elite HID Conversion Kit | The Retrofit Source
H11 Xenon Conversion | XenonDepot Xtreme H11 HID Kit

LED Kit: GX 470 - Interior LED kit

LED Fog Lights: Amazon.com: Calais Extremely Bright Golden Color COB Chips H3 30W 1200LM LED Fog Light Bulbs Plug-n-Play(pack of 2): Automotive

Bluetooth Audio/Hands free: Select Toyota Scion Lexus 02-12 Bluetooth Hands Free Car Adapter Kit

Hydraulic Hatch:
2x AR Ball Stud 10mm=(3/8
Lift Supports Depot SE244P40S10 Gas Charged Lift Support

Dry Element Air Filter:
aFe POWER 31-10027 Magnum FLOW Pro DRY S Air Filter

Awning:
Standard Pioneer Awning :: Cascadia Vehicle Roof Top Tents

Tent:
Mt. Bachelor Extended Pioneer Series :: Cascadia Vehicle Roof Top Tents

Suspension:
OME BP-51 Front and Rear (No links, sorry. Give ARB's US office a ring.
RCC2.0HD - ToyTec

Dirt King Toyota Uniball Upper Control Arms
Metal Tech FJC/4Runner Offset Rear Lower Links
Wheeler's Off Road Superbump™ Bumpstops and Accessories
"Custom" 2.5" bump stop drop in rear


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Well, I figure it's time. This won't be much of a, "build" since the majority of it will be done in a post or two, but I like to document things nonetheless.

I bought my 2006 Sport on 26 January 2017. It was totally stock and totally ready for some modifications. Dealer maintained (locally) since new. I was sold.

DSC_0031 by Alex Wilson, on Flickr

And current....
DSC_0149 by Alex Wilson, on Flickr
 
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Nice work! Can't wait to see more. Just curious, do the 255/80/17s fit in the spare tire location?
 
Those F5s look way better on a gx than I would have guessed. Looking good.
 
Nice work! Can't wait to see more. Just curious, do the 255/80/17s fit in the spare tire location?
I have no idea. I'll cross that bridge when I get there, lol...

I saw a guy deflated his, removed some sort of alignment thing for the factory spare, and then was able to get one up there.
 
The wait for the BP-51s is killing me. Last week it was "another couple weeks" so it should be soon...

Since I have nothing else to do, I spent more money.

-ARB Dual Compressor
-ARB Inflation Kit
-ARB Quick Deflator
-5th 255/80R17 Cooper ST Maxx
-5th SCS F5
-XenonDepot Xtreme HID Kit (sending the Morimoto kit back after many, many more headaches after the warrantied bulb)

Oh, and a rear axle... From a 2007 FJ Cruiser with e-locker.
 
I think the BP51 is on the same ship my storage unit and new stainless ARB are on. The wait is killer.
 
My 255/75's rubbed at stock height - 255/80's must rub like hell!
 
My 255/75's rubbed at stock height - 255/80's must rub like hell!

I did some friendly massaging (not enough) and now I am only hitting the front fender liner on the passenger side when I take a slow left (like turning into a parking spot). It doesn't rub at all just driving around town or on the freeway. OR if I stop before turning into a parking spot, crank the wheel all the way left, then go.

I haven't done anything with the pinch weld yet... I like a minimalist approach to trimming so I'll wait until the lift and UCAs are on before I start beating things in, and cutting them flat.

I am sure it would rub like mad off-road.
 
Do you all think that 255/80r17 with stock rims will rub after a 2-3 inch lift?

I'm thinking of going with that size to avoid spacers and cutting, after my lift.
 
Do you all think that 255/80r17 with stock rims will rub after a 2-3 inch lift?

I'm thinking of going with that size to avoid spacers and cutting, after my lift.

I think it will still rub some, but probably not while daily driving. If you start cycling the suspension though I imagine it'll hit the pinch weld in the back, and the fender liner in the front. You could like add some caster into your alignment to clear the pinch weld, but then you'll be smashing that fender liner.

I fully expect mine to still rub a bit after lifting. I just didn't want to do a bunch of cutting/hammering until I had the lift in and caster added so I would know exactly what it would take.
 
FJ Cruiser rear axle:
  1. does that get you to a stronger 9" rear?
  2. is gearing matched with the GX or are you re-gearing front and rear?
  3. what's the plan for the wiring to engage the e-locker?
Thx in advance, this is one that's a "way down the road" item I've considered but don't know enough about yet.
 
FJ Cruiser rear axle:
  1. does that get you to a stronger 9" rear?
  2. is gearing matched with the GX or are you re-gearing front and rear?
  3. what's the plan for the wiring to engage the e-locker?
Thx in advance, this is one that's a "way down the road" item I've considered but don't know enough about yet.

FJ auto gearing is the same as the GX (3.73). Manual is 3.91. 2010+ FJ's have an 8.2" rear end -- prior to 2010, they're the same 8" as the GX.
 
I think it will still rub some, but probably not while daily driving. If you start cycling the suspension though I imagine it'll hit the pinch weld in the back, and the fender liner in the front. You could like add some caster into your alignment to clear the pinch weld, but then you'll be smashing that fender liner.

I fully expect mine to still rub a bit after lifting. I just didn't want to do a bunch of cutting/hammering until I had the lift in and caster added so I would know exactly what it would take.

How about after lifting and fitting of a new bumper? Will it still rub? It seems most of the aftermarker rugged bumpers removes quite a bit of stuff in front of the front wheel. Of course if it rubs on the back or the top or in full lock that's a different situation.
 
FJ Cruiser rear axle:
  1. does that get you to a stronger 9" rear?
  2. is gearing matched with the GX or are you re-gearing front and rear?
  3. what's the plan for the wiring to engage the e-locker?
Thx in advance, this is one that's a "way down the road" item I've considered but don't know enough about yet.
Looks like JLee squared you away on most of the questions. My axle is from a 2007 or 2008 auto FJ so gearing matches, and diff is same size. If I didn't have KDSS I would just swap the whole axle. However, since I have KDSS I'll be modifying the GX housing to accept the FJ diff/locker.

For wiring I am going all OEM. running the 6 wires from the housing up into the cab where I'll mount the OEM computer for the locker behind the rear cargo panels. I'll need to run a power wire, and a couple wires for the factory switch which I'll mount somewhere up front in an oem-ish location.
How about after lifting and fitting of a new bumper? Will it still rub? It seems most of the aftermarker rugged bumpers removes quite a bit of stuff in front of the front wheel. Of course if it rubs on the back or the top or in full lock that's a different situation.
I think it would still rub a tiny bit on the pinch weld after a new bumper. You could REALLY push that caster forward though and avoid it, maybe. Depends on how competent your alignment tech is.
 
I stopped by Metal Tech in Newberg, OR today to pick up some sliders. Since I messed my shoulder up snowboarding last week some of the guys stayed after work and installed them for me. Very grateful! RCI aluminum skids should be here Friday!

DSC_0066 by Alex Wilson, on Flickr
DSC_0061 by Alex Wilson, on Flickr
DSC_0057 by Alex Wilson, on Flickr
 
I solved my 35x12.50R17 on 0 offset 4.5BS method wheels and Icon lift a slightly different way :)
17264370_10154486292788123_1506359744464865565_n.jpg
 
Well, the FJ Cruiser elocker diff is in and functions smoothly.

My friend didn't want to mess with the KDSS so he did all the drilling/cutting with the axle mounted and it was a bit of a nightmare. But, it worked out.

I need to clean up some wiring today (the interior is all sorts of torn apart) and then I'll get some pictures.
 
I am going to wait til this weekend to update with pictures after the lift. However, while at ARB I also picked up a new compressor. I installed it today with the Slee bracket and I am really impressed with it. It's loud, no debating that, but I don't think that should matter while I am airing up my tires.

DSC_0010 by Alex Wilson, on Flickr

I used my ARB deflator and dropped my front driver's side tire to 10psi. It took just under (like 1:56) 2 minutes to fill it from 10-35psi. A little under half the tire it took my TJM compressor to fill one of my 285/70R17 Duratracs from 12-38psi. I'm happy with that!

I also got the "new"ish ARB digital inflator and it's awesome. The longer hose on it is a lot better than the analog version. I don't have to sit on the ground to fill the tires =)

DSC_0019 by Alex Wilson, on Flickr

While I was in there I also moved my e-locker switch to the RSCA switch location and placed the compressor switch where the e-locker was- in the 2nd gear start switch location.

DSC_0013 by Alex Wilson, on Flickr

DSC_0016 by Alex Wilson, on Flickr
 
is it possible for you to post a few more pictures of the way the compressor sits. Do you have room to open the fuse box and how close is it to the brake reservoir? I know it fits, you show that, just would like to see how close it is to other stuff.

Thanks
Bruce
 
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