Build 97 3x Locked - Restoration & Build

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A little behind schedule, but finally got the cylinder head stripped down today and ready to drop off at the machine shop tomorrow!

Video update here:

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Dropped the cylinder head off today. They're going to hot tank it, blast it inside and out to get it all cleaned up, pressure check it, and also surface it.

I also did one last look at the head gasket that I removed to inspect what the condition was on both sides. The short block side, and the cylinder head side. The findings were interesting, specially considering that the motor was running well, leak down test and compression test came back okay, and overall nothing was majorly wrong.

Video update uploaded
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Dropped the cylinder head off today. They're going to hot tank it, blast it inside and out to get it all cleaned up, pressure check it, and also surface it.

I also did one last look at the head gasket that I removed to inspect what the condition was on both sides. The short block side, and the cylinder head side. The findings were interesting, specially considering that the motor was running well, leak down test and compression test came back okay, and overall nothing was majorly wrong.

Video update uploaded
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Is that common for combustion gases to leak out of the head/block interfcace? Would they have just leaked into the engine bay?

Also I may have missed this but did you notice any pitting or warping on the block?
 
Is that common for combustion gases to leak out of the head/block interfcace? Would they have just leaked into the engine bay?

Also I may have missed this but did you notice any pitting or warping on the block?
No, the combustion gasses should not be leaking anywhere if everything was healthy, installed correctly, head bolts not stretched from overheating, etc...

At first glance at the top of the block I don't see any pitting. But I need to scrape all the gunk off of it, clean it well, and then inspect. I'll make sure to document the whole process findings to share. Should be interesting to see, especially around cyl#1 and cyl#6.
 
I picked up the cylinder head from the shop today. I am very impressed by their work. I have had a LOT of heads and blocks at machine shops over the years. This is by far the best job at cleaning the entire thing inside and out that I have seen. Even inside all of the oil and coolant passages are clean as a whistle!!

Here's a quick video to show some details:

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The list is getting longer. Doing my best to keep it updated as I go so that I don't forget anything.

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If you have watched a few of my videos, you know that I hate dirty engine bays. After I finished pulling the oil pan yesterday, I LITERALLY had to throw away the shirt and pants I was wearing. It was THAT BAD. At this point I wish I had just pulled the motor out to work on. But, we are here and I am making progress. Next video will be more teardown and a look at the rod bearings and crank shaft.

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Video update here

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I'll get back on this project around the start of the year hopefully. The DIY remodel we're doing on the house has taken up most of my free time outside of work. Hope to have some updates for you guys in January!
 
I forgot to upload this video last year of the new Plasmaman intake manifold I will be using. It's going to be interesting to get it all to fit, but we'll get there eventually. I had to put the 80 series project aside since about June of 2022, and now finally getting time to tinker with it again. Hoping to have some relevant updates for you guys in the coming month. A year sure does go by quickly !!!

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Sold the ARB bumper, the Badlands Apex 12k winch and the WARN lights over the weekend to a great 80 series owner that drove up from San Antonio. He even got them installed on his 80 in the first 24 hours. Love it when I get to meet other LC enthusiasts and talk shop for a few minutes.

I don't need to decide now, but at some point I have to figure out what to do about a front bumper. I don't really want a winch for this build, so OEM bumper is always an option to keep the look original. Or I could go with something more aggressive. Not sure yet. Open to opinions and thoughts if you guys have any input.

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Obligatory video update, with my goofy smile:

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Did you just change your user ID or was I in an alternate universe? 🤣
 
Well, life changes and this poor project has been sitting for 2 years mostly untouched. I don't see my work getting any slower, and that means that I won't have the time to really get this one any closer to the finish line.

So it might be time to allow another land cruiser nut to take over this project.

It is in pieces, but its all there. If anyone is interested in taking it all as one big package, send me a direct message.
 
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Change of plan, looks like we're keeping it. My two boys want to help fix it up and keep it as their first car for highschool. Should be fun as long as I can keep them helping on weeks that I'm home.

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Quick update on where we're starting from now that we're getting back on the 80 series project.

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Last night we got the hood taken off, and got the shortblock loosened up from all the remaining hoses and wires. Got it onto the cherry picker and separated from the transmission. But ran into a bonehead problem, no room to move the cherry picker away from the truck. Oops, my bad. Going to get the cherry picker repositioned next and try to pull it form the side of the truck.

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We got the remainder of the engine out tonight. We had to do it from the side. Luckily the 2-ton engine hoist extended plenty far so that we had space to do it without touching the fender. Got it laid on a drip pan for tonight and assembled the engine 750 lbs engine stand. Tomorrow we'll get it mounted and keep working.

So if you're wondering if it is possible to get the engine out of an FJ80 / FZJ80 from the side, yes, it's possible. You just need to get a 2 ton engine hoist so that the boom extends far enough and you don't make contact with the fender flare.

It's tough getting much done with only an hour to spare on week nights. But we'll keep making progress!!

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First time I've ever had this much trouble with flex plate bolts. MAP torch, lots of heat, and a big Dewalt impact on setting 2 did the trick. But a few times I was feeling like the impact was going to strip the heads. The threads were really stuck in there good.

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we removed the torque converter and the flex plate to finally get it on an engine stand. The torque converter bolts came off easily. But the flex plate bolts were stuck and very difficult to remove. We had to use a torch with lots of heat, and also an impact to remove the flex plate bolts. It took a while, but it finally worked!!

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