Thanks for the reply, almost 2 years later... I ended up scoring a totaled 2500HD w/ 6.0L and 4l80e. Fit up with no change to the crossmember and I've been driving it for about a year and a half now. Wouldn't have done it any other way!
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i m running GM and Toyota sensor with no adapters
if the toyota gauge is showing 3/4 you r in 240 F range
there is no way you have gm V 8 engine and your temperature is 185-190 F all GM V8 like to run hot up to 235 f is totally normal
Don't have a gm v8 in my 80 but do in my 62 and unless I'm really taxing it, the thing stays at the thermostat temp, which is 185. I have seen it creep up to 210 under extreme circumstances and it usually freaks me out to the point of turning on heaters and what not. Not sure why your experience is that the gm motor doesn't run at the thermostat temp of 180-190, but for the most part mine does. Mine is an 04 5.3, maybe the newer motors have a higher thermostat temp that I wasn't aware of.
@DavidinAZ my stock gm sensor is in the head as well, and it reads right at 185ish just about all the time (first quarter on my fj62 temp gauge), and is confirmed by my ultra gauge. Maybe try running an ultra gauge to know the exact readout?
My 6.0 LS2 runs at somewhere between 175 and 195 on most occasions. My first electric SPAL comes on automatically at 185 and the second SPAL is manually switched by the driver when ‘things start to go pear shaped’. The highest I’ve seen is 223 which was fully loaded and after climbing a steep grade for at least 10 mins with ambient temps at 100 plus.
I surely wouldn’t be happy running at 235 all day long...
I turned the toyota sensor down to thread directly into my head. I haven't checked actual temps but my factory gauge consistently sits about 1/8 lower than it did with the 1fz in there.
i have gen IV engine (2007) with two stage thermostat and it runs 210-220 most off time
My understanding from having owned some Chevys is that, in stock form at least, the gauge in the truck (Chevy truck) will read 210 but it usually runs at 185-195 in actuality, depending on which thermostat you have. They stick the gauge at 210 so it isn't moving around all over, even when it isn't actually 210. Plenty of threads like this one Normal Engine Temp?
That's in stock form in a Chevy, but of course if you change the thermostat to open higher or your cooling system sucks, then your results will vary.
I'm sure there may be some variants of the engine that run hotter, but those Temps of around 190 seems to be the norm for the majority. I guess bottom line, if your thermostat is rated to open at 185-195 degrees and your truck is running at 210 all the time verified digitally, then you probably need to look into that. If your thermostat opens at 220 degrees then let it flame on! No idea what it's supposed to do with a two stage thermostat, that may be normal too.
That's in stock form in a Chevy, but of course if you change the thermostat to open higher or your cooling system sucks, then your results will vary.
I'm sure there may be some variants of the engine that run hotter, but those Temps of around 190 seems to be the norm for the majority. I guess bottom line, if your thermostat is rated to open at 185-195 degrees and your truck is running at 210 all the time verified digitally, then you probably need to look into that. If your thermostat opens at 220 degrees then let it flame on! No idea what it's supposed to do with a two stage thermostat, that may be normal too.
That’s great I was always told that you needed a crossmember relocation for this conversion how did you accomplish it?
The marks adapter for the 4l80 allows you to bolt into the stock crossmember, everything is factory from the x-case back. Which brings me to a question i have had.
When i got into all of this, I was under the impression that i needed a lift to be able to clear tranny pan or oil pan against the differential and driveshaft. When I put the 6l/4l80 in I didn't have any issues with this because I had the J springs on with 1" spacers to clear my 37's. Long story short i live in hawaii and all of the restrictions make it difficult to have the LC setup that way. I recently went back to stock suspension and was very wary of any interference issues, but with the springs/shocks/bumpstops out i couldn't get any contact with the implanted drivetrain. Is this just a lucky coincidence or was i wrong the whole time and the ls swap is doable on the stock land cruiser?
Right on have you tried to cycle your suspension to see if you have any contact I had that issue with my 40 series and had to trim down the flange on the tranny pan
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I had to take off my DC driveshaft and go back to the stock one but other than that, the axle can cycle all of the way to the frame without hitting anything.
I'm stock height but the engine oil pan is notched. Kinda wish I had a 1.5" body lift for more clearance for the trans tunnel.
That's the OE Toyota radiator? How well does it cool? I'm running the OE radiator on my 350 swap but I think I need more cooling.
92 fj80 350 crate moter, factory Toyota transmission.
Stock Chevy clutch fan.
Any input would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Stock radiator keeps up just fine even here in AZ with a mechanical fan clutch and even towing.
With a built iron block LS2. The 96-97 radiator seems to do the best. They are the plastic tanks with aluminum core ones.
Replaced the cruise control speed sensor, OEM cruise still doesn't work. The cruise light is on but won't set. I gotta look at the wiring diagram some more.
Thanks for the input, I am going to take a second look at my fan shroud. I think it might be a bit less than effective. I'm leaning toward dual fans, I'm still running north of 220-230 in traffic or with the a/c on.
NCFJ
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You should also be running a bypass valve that runs coolant constantly even when the heater core is blocked. This will bring your temps down 10-20 degrees.
I use Murray # 74781 and remove the vacuum controller and just move the lever from summer to winter twice a year. The lever is on the bottom in the photo
I use Murray # 74781 and remove the vacuum controller and just move the lever from summer to winter twice a year. The lever is on the bottom in the photo
Here is a picture of the cruise control diagram. The IDL input is from the original tps sensor. At idle the tps sends I ground to the cruise control ecu I believe and off idle it sends 12v to the cruise control ecu. Not sure if this input is needed. I guess I could jump a wire to this input and mess with sending it ground or 12v to see if it makes a difference.
yes a new oe style radiator from my local radiator shop. I wanted to see if it would work and I can report that after 2 years of use , I have not had any overheating issues. Normal engine temp is 210-215. The fans are kind of loud but overall very happy with the fan setup.
