- Thread starter
- #801
Haha, don't hold your breath, I don't even have a job right now and am paying for a third advanced degree out of pocket. lol.
Build 80 series where to start! Again....
- Thread starter scottryana
- Start date
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Completely understand... Shouldn't have left Texas though... Would have helped build this beast with you. No job huh... How much you charge for a consultation. I'm already 4 days behind on a rental rehab because I have been researching your builds at nauseum.
- Thread starter
- #803
Well since this is tech I guess a bunch of questions would apply to this build and help readers.
I appreciate your knowledge and think you need to at least set up a go fund me account. You are pioneering a niche that we could only watch from afar from the middle east and downunder.
What are your ideas on a hi speed/performance suspension? What are you using for shocks on the "TCrod"? Already have tge heavy sways on my list and plan to cut my 4"OME springs to 3".
Why did you change to a single scroll on this build? Your other truck you completely sold me on how ideal the twin scroll and borg are perfect for our engines.
Why go from the "J" pipe design to the 6-1 manifold (total piece of motor art by the way)
Love the head work you did, how did you determine the valve size need and the cam? Your original stated hp goal was only (lol! I know) 850. Did you purposely over build it? Sounded more appropriate for 1200 build.
I appreciate your knowledge and think you need to at least set up a go fund me account. You are pioneering a niche that we could only watch from afar from the middle east and downunder.
What are your ideas on a hi speed/performance suspension? What are you using for shocks on the "TCrod"? Already have tge heavy sways on my list and plan to cut my 4"OME springs to 3".
Why did you change to a single scroll on this build? Your other truck you completely sold me on how ideal the twin scroll and borg are perfect for our engines.
Why go from the "J" pipe design to the 6-1 manifold (total piece of motor art by the way)
Love the head work you did, how did you determine the valve size need and the cam? Your original stated hp goal was only (lol! I know) 850. Did you purposely over build it? Sounded more appropriate for 1200 build.
- Thread starter
- #805
txbandogger, post: Well since this is tech I guess a bunch of questions would apply to this build and help readers.
I appreciate your knowledge and think you need to at least set up a go fund me account. You are pioneering a niche that we could only watch from afar from the middle east and downunder.
What are your ideas on a hi speed/performance suspension? What are you using for shocks on the "TCrod"? Already have tge heavy sways on my list and plan to cut my 4"OME springs to 3".
Well since this truck isn't going to be off-road at all, I am using brand new stock Land Cruiser coils which are already reportedly 20% stiffer than LX450 coils and then I am cutting 1 wrap out of the coils which should stiffen the spring rate about 12%, so a total stiffness increase of 32% in spring rate, and then the hopefully much stiffer sway bars. For suspension I have talked to King and they would be willing to do a 2" shorter than stock remote reservoir with compression adjustment so I could dial in even more "stiffness" if needed.
Why did you change to a single scroll on this build? Your other truck you completely sold me on how ideal the twin scroll and borg are perfect for our engines.
The idea to run twin scroll is really ideal..... But turbo size, weight and material becomes a problem with big turbos. IF I would have been happy with only 6-700awhp I definitely would have stayed with a BW EFR 9180. With a turbo bigger than say a GT40 to go twin scroll you often end up with an industrial turbo housing and not an automotive housing. These are usually very large, very heavy chunks of cast iron. The castings are rough and the flow isn't ideal. Hanging a big heavy cast iron turbo off of a J-pipe can often lead to leaks. You have 2 manifold to engine seals, 2 manifold to j-pipe seals and a j-pipe to turbo seal. With one solid manifold you eliminate 2 possible leaks at the manifold to j-pipe seals. Additionally if you did a j-pipe without a twin scroll housing, you don't have equal length runners and bringing the manifold into 1, means you could have cancelling pulses. That is why I made it a big deal to get equal length, equal radius runners with the v-band housing.
Why go from the "J" pipe design to the 6-1 manifold (total piece of motor art by the way)
See above
Love the head work you did, how did you determine the valve size need and the cam? Your original stated hp goal was only (lol! I know) 850. Did you purposely over build it? Sounded more appropriate for 1200 build.
Well my original stated goal was around 850 as when I originally put my plans together I was going to run Carillo Super-A rods which have a safe limit of about 150hp per cylinder, but with Titan Motorsports help, I was able to get the very best rod made for the 1FZ which can supposedly handle 275hp per cylinder so now really the sky is the limit. Lol. It's about an 1100hp turbo so without NO2 I would not plan to hit 1200 nor have I had any luck trying to find a transmission that would hold that.
The head is a lot of estimation/guesstimation based on flow bench figures from stock, flow figures from turbo heads I know work well when turbo'd etc. It has been a while since I did the numbers but it appeared that in stock form the exhaust flowed more in proportion to the intake than most "performance" heads so when looking at valves, I knew I wanted to go larger intake, and I couldn't fit +3mm intake and exhaust so I did +3mm intake and +1mm exhaust and then went with a cam that the exhaust had just slightly more lift (I think 10.50mm vs 10.35mm) to make sure the extra air could get out. At this point it could all just blow up the first time it's cranked over, but I feel pretty confident in my research. Lol.
I appreciate your knowledge and think you need to at least set up a go fund me account. You are pioneering a niche that we could only watch from afar from the middle east and downunder.
What are your ideas on a hi speed/performance suspension? What are you using for shocks on the "TCrod"? Already have tge heavy sways on my list and plan to cut my 4"OME springs to 3".
Well since this truck isn't going to be off-road at all, I am using brand new stock Land Cruiser coils which are already reportedly 20% stiffer than LX450 coils and then I am cutting 1 wrap out of the coils which should stiffen the spring rate about 12%, so a total stiffness increase of 32% in spring rate, and then the hopefully much stiffer sway bars. For suspension I have talked to King and they would be willing to do a 2" shorter than stock remote reservoir with compression adjustment so I could dial in even more "stiffness" if needed.
Why did you change to a single scroll on this build? Your other truck you completely sold me on how ideal the twin scroll and borg are perfect for our engines.
The idea to run twin scroll is really ideal..... But turbo size, weight and material becomes a problem with big turbos. IF I would have been happy with only 6-700awhp I definitely would have stayed with a BW EFR 9180. With a turbo bigger than say a GT40 to go twin scroll you often end up with an industrial turbo housing and not an automotive housing. These are usually very large, very heavy chunks of cast iron. The castings are rough and the flow isn't ideal. Hanging a big heavy cast iron turbo off of a J-pipe can often lead to leaks. You have 2 manifold to engine seals, 2 manifold to j-pipe seals and a j-pipe to turbo seal. With one solid manifold you eliminate 2 possible leaks at the manifold to j-pipe seals. Additionally if you did a j-pipe without a twin scroll housing, you don't have equal length runners and bringing the manifold into 1, means you could have cancelling pulses. That is why I made it a big deal to get equal length, equal radius runners with the v-band housing.
Why go from the "J" pipe design to the 6-1 manifold (total piece of motor art by the way)
See above
Love the head work you did, how did you determine the valve size need and the cam? Your original stated hp goal was only (lol! I know) 850. Did you purposely over build it? Sounded more appropriate for 1200 build.
Well my original stated goal was around 850 as when I originally put my plans together I was going to run Carillo Super-A rods which have a safe limit of about 150hp per cylinder, but with Titan Motorsports help, I was able to get the very best rod made for the 1FZ which can supposedly handle 275hp per cylinder so now really the sky is the limit. Lol. It's about an 1100hp turbo so without NO2 I would not plan to hit 1200 nor have I had any luck trying to find a transmission that would hold that.
The head is a lot of estimation/guesstimation based on flow bench figures from stock, flow figures from turbo heads I know work well when turbo'd etc. It has been a while since I did the numbers but it appeared that in stock form the exhaust flowed more in proportion to the intake than most "performance" heads so when looking at valves, I knew I wanted to go larger intake, and I couldn't fit +3mm intake and exhaust so I did +3mm intake and +1mm exhaust and then went with a cam that the exhaust had just slightly more lift (I think 10.50mm vs 10.35mm) to make sure the extra air could get out. At this point it could all just blow up the first time it's cranked over, but I feel pretty confident in my research. Lol.
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Not sure if this is where you are going with the rig but saw this for sale in classifieds and thought of you.
For Sale: - Body Kit for FZJ80/80-series Landcruiser (Valencia, CA)
For Sale: - Body Kit for FZJ80/80-series Landcruiser (Valencia, CA)
- Thread starter
- #807
Hmmmm I am not sure if I like it or not. I know I don't like the front bumper, but I think I am going to go much smoother. No flares. stock bumpers. And everything monochrome black.
HELL YA ON MURDERING IT OUT!! I love John Deer blitz black!
The grill on that truck is kinda interesting.
I see your frustration now. How to get what our engines capable of to translate into power to the wheels? Short of "stupid money" and or "not ideal for my application" T400 drag transmission ; I don't see a solution.
With that... You have pushed your a343f pretty hard... So is 700 lbft tq the limit? If that is the case. Is there even a point to dropping je forged pistons and Carrillo rods in a build if my target hp is to stay with in the limits of our drive train? Just 101mm OEM pistons and maybe hbeam rods should cover that nicely from what Supercrown has put up.
And just to vent! The options for a twin scroll manifold are hideous! It looks like I have to build my own. Custom is just ridiculous money for what you get.
That leads me to plumbing questions... I didn't see external wastegates on your j pipe. Where you running a bw etr with internal? Can an airwerks be fitted with internal? (need to research this more)
And your combined atw/windshield tank intrigued me to no end. Are you going to run a similar set up? Would like something similar if making a couple would be cheaper for your fab guy.
With that... You have pushed your a343f pretty hard... So is 700 lbft tq the limit? If that is the case. Is there even a point to dropping je forged pistons and Carrillo rods in a build if my target hp is to stay with in the limits of our drive train? Just 101mm OEM pistons and maybe hbeam rods should cover that nicely from what Supercrown has put up.
And just to vent! The options for a twin scroll manifold are hideous! It looks like I have to build my own. Custom is just ridiculous money for what you get.
That leads me to plumbing questions... I didn't see external wastegates on your j pipe. Where you running a bw etr with internal? Can an airwerks be fitted with internal? (need to research this more)
And your combined atw/windshield tank intrigued me to no end. Are you going to run a similar set up? Would like something similar if making a couple would be cheaper for your fab guy.
- Thread starter
- #811
Yeah but with the TH400 you have to run an adapter to the land cruiser transfer case that I don't think exists so you would have to custom make one. My only solution at this point is trying the ATF Speed build or the sequential 6 speed with built in transfercase that is really the only options I see.
No one really knows the limits of the A343F I do push it pretty hard but it seems to keep going strong. I did do the shift kit and went pretty aggressive. I think you would be ok around 700ft/lbs at the engine probably translate to around 500ft/lbs at the wheels. But like I said no one really knows until they blow one up.
If you are trying to stay within the limits of the trans, yeah I think some forged piston and much cheaper rods would be fine.
If you are going twin scroll you can use the J-pipe and it works great. The wastegate on the BW EFR turbos are built into the turbo housing and vent into the downpipe so you don't have to run a wastegate, extra exhaust pipe, etc. It is a pretty elegant solution and keeps things much cleaner under hood. The only tuning issues is that it can take a bit of adjusting to get the wastegate actuator to open and close when you want, but it is a threaded rod with double nuts so super easy.
On this truck I won't run the A/W intercooler, simply because I don't expect that it will see a lot of low speed crawling type travel. The other truck my idea with the A/W was that at trail speeds you could still have a decent electric fan moving air over the heat exchanger and with the large water capacity it doesn't heat soak like an A/A would stuck to the radiator.
No one really knows the limits of the A343F I do push it pretty hard but it seems to keep going strong. I did do the shift kit and went pretty aggressive. I think you would be ok around 700ft/lbs at the engine probably translate to around 500ft/lbs at the wheels. But like I said no one really knows until they blow one up.
If you are trying to stay within the limits of the trans, yeah I think some forged piston and much cheaper rods would be fine.
If you are going twin scroll you can use the J-pipe and it works great. The wastegate on the BW EFR turbos are built into the turbo housing and vent into the downpipe so you don't have to run a wastegate, extra exhaust pipe, etc. It is a pretty elegant solution and keeps things much cleaner under hood. The only tuning issues is that it can take a bit of adjusting to get the wastegate actuator to open and close when you want, but it is a threaded rod with double nuts so super easy.
On this truck I won't run the A/W intercooler, simply because I don't expect that it will see a lot of low speed crawling type travel. The other truck my idea with the A/W was that at trail speeds you could still have a decent electric fan moving air over the heat exchanger and with the large water capacity it doesn't heat soak like an A/A would stuck to the radiator.
Couldn't help but think of your build when I ran across this. I wonder if this kit can be still sourced?
Handle pretty good over 100 mph...but missing Turbo
Here's fully JDM kit, rollin '24x11 custom made light weight rims with 325/35/24 Pirelli Scorpion Asimmetrico.
-5 inch dropped all four, JDM Espelir spring sport package.
-Sport Rancho RS-R 5 way adjustable.
-JDM "FR and "RR adjustable panhard rod.
-JDM TRD "FR and "RR sway bars, bushing...etc
-4+ Extreme Duty Relay, Tie rod and Tie rod end kits.
and total of $7000.00 (rims and tires) + $3000.00 (all the necessary suspension kit) = $10.000not include JDM dual cat back exhaust system $1300.00
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- Jan 6, 2012
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I think youmshould turn up the Trans pump pressure way up, and see how long it lasts behind this engine, who knows? Maybe it will hold up
- Thread starter
- #814
Pretty cool! Same size turbo I will run.
- Thread starter
- #815
Well getting ready to start sending stuff off to be ceramic coating, and I kept looking at how s***ty that eBay intake manifold was and I just can't see myself using it. I would need to do a lot of work even the injector bungs are poorly cast and would need to be filled with JB Weld and cleaned up. My buddy that welded up my Turbo manifold was worried about cutting and welding on it since it was such poor casted aluminum he was afraid it would just blow through and create more problems. The cast bell mouths inside are basically crumbling apart.
Sooo I took one more chance and emailed Hypertune, they are the ones that make those amazing billet intake manifolds for 2JZ's, RB26's, etc. Pete got right back to me and let me know his 105 is apart and they are taking orders!
Hopefully this is an actuality....
Their TB46 intake manifold so the 1FZ should look pretty similar just reversed!
I also managed to pick up a set of one off, stainless steel adjustable cam gears for my new Kelford cams. They are also coming from Australia so that should be pretty cool.
Sooo I took one more chance and emailed Hypertune, they are the ones that make those amazing billet intake manifolds for 2JZ's, RB26's, etc. Pete got right back to me and let me know his 105 is apart and they are taking orders!
Hopefully this is an actuality....
Their TB46 intake manifold so the 1FZ should look pretty similar just reversed!
I also managed to pick up a set of one off, stainless steel adjustable cam gears for my new Kelford cams. They are also coming from Australia so that should be pretty cool.
- Thread starter
- #816
Couple of small little things.
The battery died on the Black LX so I needed to start thinking about a new battery. I know the lithium ion tech is coming along, but I just invested in a small AGM Odyssey 925. 25lbs less than the Die Hard Platinum we normally use in the 80's.
Then I finally bucked up and ordered the aluminum for the brake hats. I think I might have over done it a little. 1.5"x13"x13" probably could have done 1.25"x10"x10"
The battery died on the Black LX so I needed to start thinking about a new battery. I know the lithium ion tech is coming along, but I just invested in a small AGM Odyssey 925. 25lbs less than the Die Hard Platinum we normally use in the 80's.
Then I finally bucked up and ordered the aluminum for the brake hats. I think I might have over done it a little. 1.5"x13"x13" probably could have done 1.25"x10"x10"
- Thread starter
- #818
Very cool, yeah I have heard of people even going with the smaller 680, but that just seemed risky. This battery is pretty tiny, I couldn't imagine anything even smaller really lasting.
- Thread starter
- #820
Turbo 1FZ car from earlier in the thread making some passes.
7 second car @ 180mph in the 1/4 mile on street radials. This car will probably go in to the high 6's maybe low 7's!
7 second car @ 180mph in the 1/4 mile on street radials. This car will probably go in to the high 6's maybe low 7's!