80 Series GIS Skid now available - HuddExpo (1 Viewer)

LC4LIFE

Supporting Vendor
Joined
Jul 30, 2007
Messages
1,792
Location
Colorado Springs, CO
HuddExpo is now offering the Gray Industries Skid in both Fully welded and DIY versions.

The fully welded version comes in black electroplated zinc and the DIY version is bare steel. Both kits come with frame mounts and hardware (new frame hardware qty 8 M10 grade 10.9 JIS bolts and oversized washers, frame u-bolt, and 2 M12 10.9 bolts, washers, and nuts for the TC skid support) the transmission mount nuts are reused.


Each piece of the DIY kit has been plasma cut from .25” mild steel and they interlock for simple placement for welding. The transfer case skid simply slides over the main crossmember and bolts into place for welding, then bolts are removed. New hardware for all mounting positions are included, but the transmission mount nuts are reused.

The main skid/crossmember is 36lbs and very easy to lift in to place with one person.

Simple installation fitting around factory exhaust and many aftermarket slider configurations, tested and verified with: Slee, Metal Tech, etc.

Here are some pics of both versions and here is the design thread - different take on the trans mount and skid plate

$290 for the DIY version shipped - 80 Series GIS Skid - DIY Kit
$375 for the welded, electroplated version shipped- 80 Series GIS Skid - Fully Welded


Image-2.jpg


Image-3.jpg


IMG_3124.JPG


IMG_3139.JPG
 
Last edited:
Joined
Jul 9, 2012
Messages
2,577
Location
South KC
Installation Guide.

This is only a guide, seek professional assistance if you do not have the tools and knowledge to complete. Working on and Under a motor vehicle can be dangerous and caution must be taken.

tools needed:
- 14mm socket or wrench
- 17mm socket and wrench
- 19mm wrench
- jack (height depends on your lift and tire size)
- grinder (optional for cutting the long transfer case stud flush with skid plate guards.)

Support the output of the transfer case. You don't need to lift just support, so the cross member can be removed.
IMG_3256.JPG

next remove the 2 - 17mm nuts holding the mount to the cross member, these nuts will be reused. Then the 8 - 14mm bolts can be removed be careful as the cross member will be loose and can be removed at this time.
IMG_3257.JPG

It's now time to grab the new HD Skid. align it on the mount and start the original 2 - 17mm nuts, it will hold the 36lb skid. Make sure all threads are engaged even though it's only 36 lbs, you still don't want it on your head...
IMG_3260.JPG

- Next grab the 8 new 14mm head M10 bolts and over sized 10mm washers and the 2 spacer plates (lower the jack if needed to get the spacer plates in above the main cross member and frame) start all 8 bolts before tightening. Once all bolts are in, tighten the 8 frame mounts first
- The jack can be removed at this time.
- Then the 2- 17mm nuts on the mount can be tightened.
- Next grab the u-bolt and the frame bracket. Get the U bolt on the frame right behind the vibration damper and in front of the rear O2. the mount can be slid in behind the u-bolt after the threads are started. don't tighten the u-bolt until the link bar is in place.
IMG_3272.JPG


The last link bar piece can be mounted in more than one direction. But with factory exhaust the dog leg bend will go on the frame side. Use the new M12 bolts, washers and nuts 17mm and 19mm wrenches will be needed. Get both sides started before tightening. In some cases putting a jack under the back side of the skid and lift to get the bolts started, we have found this is only needed in 20% of installs. keeping the holes small and not slotted leads to design tight and gives the transfer case to skid clearance a consistent clearance of 1/4" -3/8". Once these 2 bolts are started tighten the u-bolt (19mm) and 2 bolts in the link bar.
IMG_3274.JPG


Last step is to cut the transmission mount bolts flush with guards around.

Enjoy!!!
 
Last edited:
Joined
Jul 9, 2012
Messages
2,577
Location
South KC
The DIY weld it yourself version:
there really isn't any alignment or measuring needed. I've designed this to be able control clearance through the bends and makes the weldment easy and repeatable.

Here are all the parts that will be welded together to make the welded main piece of the cross member and skid of the DIY kit

2822E792-1C60-44F2-A3C6-68AC1955DCE8.jpeg

There are alignment holes on the cross member and TC skid portion. you slide them together and align with 2 1/2" bolts, tighten to secure the 2 together and weld. tack in place and remove bolts. The cross member stiffener pieces have cutouts/tabs that interlock with very little play. make them parallel with the tabs engaged and your good to go. you can use c-clamps to help hold these in place but tacking in several places first works great.
A229F76F-F801-4F12-9B65-C18318663169.jpeg

The bolt and nut protection pieces are the only parts that have to be eyeballed for placement. center the frame bolt sliders between all mounting slots. The frame bolt sliders have been designed longer than the width of the cross member. weld and grind the end flush, very quick clean up. This allows the best bolt protection with an angle for easy skid surface.
EB5C7579-E07C-4A52-A11B-DBBEFB65071A.jpeg

The transfer case mount guards just have to be centered. use c-clamps if needed to keep them from moving when you weld them.
DCF92C8D-2F28-4943-88C5-786665930EE6.jpeg

let us know if you have any questions or if this guide is not clear.

Thank You,
Jess
 
Last edited:
Joined
Jul 9, 2012
Messages
2,577
Location
South KC
Heres A stupid question - what is electroplating and does it still need to be painted?
This is a Zinc Electroplating coating used to apply a zinc coating to resist corrosion. You typically see yellow zinc or white(clear/silver) on hardware. Like any coating there is a limit to it's corrosive control. In a high corrosion area topcoating over the zinc with a quality paint would be recommended. I plan on touching mine up with paint after rock hits to keep it clean. Consider it a great primer that chemically reacts to the steel using electricity to apply. Anodize is to Aluminum as Zinc is to Steel.

Why not powder? For something that will see rock contact and will chew through any coating. In my experience powder is great until you get through to bare metal. Then it's over and corrosion creeps underneath eventually flaking off in large chunks. painting over those deep scratches in powder never seams to take care of it long term, but we see salt here so my experience is different than the southerns. maybe we could offer powder as a pre buy option to be run with the next batch. Hard to tell timing on that though.

Hope that helps
 
Joined
Jul 9, 2012
Messages
2,577
Location
South KC
Does the ubolt around the frame interfere with most sliders? I have White Knuckle Offroad sliders.

We have not found one that does yet. Look to see where your frame mounts are. If they are not in the 4” section in front of the rear O2 sensor you should be good to go.
 
Joined
Jul 9, 2012
Messages
2,577
Location
South KC
In post #5 I've uploaded a short tutorial for the DIY version. Its a very simple design with the locating holes/slots that align the pieces with bolts and easily welded.

As an FYI Gray Industries is my company. I offer mechanical engineering services. I've utilized companies I work with on a daily basis with customers products. Using the same outsourcing and design for manufacturing approach for consistency with the final product whether it be the DIY version or the complete version. I expect great results with either. I figure I do this for a living might as well spend the time to make items I build for my own personal use available to all. HuddExpo has stepped up to be the front for the product as my focus is more design and manufacturing. I'm an engineer I can't talk to people.. I'm just not a people person and don't have people skills... sorry, bad movie reference. again engineer.
 
Last edited:

LC4LIFE

Supporting Vendor
Joined
Jul 30, 2007
Messages
1,792
Location
Colorado Springs, CO
Thank you for the interest everyone. To answer the inquiries about local pickup.....Right now, all the skids are in Kansas where they are cut and built. There seems to be quite a bit of desire for local pickup to save shipping, but right now the plans are to sell through the available stock and ship it from Kansas. I may stock both the built and DIY versions in CO once the dust settles.

David
 

RFB

97 FZJ80 LIFTED SC DUAL BATTERIES,37s
SILVER Star
Joined
Mar 7, 2017
Messages
3,782
Location
Nahant Ma.
Does this allow you to get at the TC side of a front driveshaft? My Iron Pig makes it a chore to pull the DC DS out.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Top Bottom